Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. jrou111

    jrou111 Stair Climber

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    309
    Location:
    Birmingham, AL
    Update:

    I opened up the side case...not good. :cry

    Looks like the nut on the counterbalancer backed off and went for a ride, until it got wedged in the gears on the waterpump. :puke1

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've got a replacement clutch case cover on the way (complete with waterpump gear), so I think it shouldn't be too difficult to repair. Hopefully.

    Anybody seen anything like this on a WR250? Seems pretty uncommon.
  2. 1Down-5Up

    1Down-5Up Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    115
    Location:
    Northern Ontario
    For the cheapie guys out there I used a piece of 3/4 " plywood to replace the tin lid on the Yamaha rear rack.
    Nice thing is you can cut them to any shape to experiment. My latest one is cut to fit the Wolfman tail bag.
    I have a plywood box for my 68 cc chainsaw that I just screw to the plywood plate and it holds.
    I'm going to try a trip with a few overnights so I'll make a bigger one to hold the hammock, bag, and other bulky gear.
    In this pic I have my FatMax saw tucked under the bag and the anti-slip stuff contact glued onto it.


    [​IMG]
  3. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,106
    Location:
    tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.
    I made my own as well from a scrap piece of .25" aluminum. Picture is before painting. After seeing it my wife said I should have just bought one. Guess she wasn't impressed with my machining skills.:cry I made some aluminum spacers to fit it above the fender of the type that are supplied with the purchased aluminum racks.

    FWIW in case it helps someone, I posted a question several pages ago asking about the mounting hole pattern spacing. The front-back spacing is 70mm and the side-side spacing is 50mm.


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  4. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,211
    Location:
    Prescott AZ
    Agree with almost all your advise with the exception of more rebound damping. Once I backed off the spring tension & increased the sag the rebound damping seems more than adequate, no more kicking me forward over the front wheel. Too much rebound damping will also keep the rear wheel off the ground & not return quick enough to follow the terrain.
  5. oldtrucks

    oldtrucks Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    NorCal
    After seeing the first picture I figured it would look like that inside. How many miles are on the bike?
  6. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    515
    Location:
    Topeka
    Yea, me too. The locking tab for the balancer gear nut is laying there in the case. Must not have been bent over all the way, or something. A close up of the locking tab would be nice :ear
  7. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,669
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    Mine is the basic Impreza with 2.5 L engine. Pulls a trailer extremely well for a 4-banger.
  8. alansz400

    alansz400 Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,038
    Location:
    Loudonville ohio
    Wow that sucks. Looks like it could have been alot worse. Luckily the case didnt get cracked. Getting ALL that metal out of the motor looks like its going to be the hard part.
  9. ArmyJoe

    ArmyJoe Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,244
    Location:
    Kuwait
    Plastic cutting boards work, too.

    As it is, I'm scraping a boot trying to throw a leg over the bike. I'm going with the Automotive Machine & Supply Triangle Rack to keep it a low and contoured profile.
  10. shep546

    shep546 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2012
    Oddometer:
    215
    Location:
    Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada
    [​IMG]

    Really thinking of ordering these side panels... only thing is I don't really feel they are worth the price.
  11. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,034
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast, Qld, Aus.
    A ride report will come at some stage, but I have been working on the video and thought I would post up Episode 1. A mate and I nailed down a date and set to work on making our dreams of a Cape York ride possible. Two very well set up WR250R's and a lot of planning later and we did it in September of this year.

    Please subscribe to my youtube channel for more vids and to keep updated with the latest episodes.

    <iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/q53pw4B9Bik" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  12. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,848
    Location:
    Westchester County, New York
    What that thing that is in the line of sight on your buddies bike?
  13. scottmac

    scottmac Long timer

    Joined:
    May 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,036
    Location:
    La Selva Beach, CA.
    Those are really nice. The right panel looks like it can do the job of a heat panel too by keeping your gear off of
    the pipe. Sure wish they were cheaper.
  14. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,034
    Location:
    Sunshine Coast, Qld, Aus.
    Hey mate. That is is front brake line. It is an aftermarket braided one.
  15. ADWrider

    ADWrider AKA Acorn27

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2012
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    S/E Wisconsin
    Did the AIS removal and air box flapper mod today, quite simple and really only took an hour tops. Made my own block-off plate with a scrap of aluminum bar stock I had laying around and lock-tited it down for good measure
    [​IMG]
    While I had the bodywork off I took the time to install a battery tender lead. Tucked in in nice & tight, real clean.
    [​IMG]
    Tucked the fuse behind the battery strap, ran the wire up the plastic tray, added a couple zip ties and used a Velcro strap to tie it up under the subframe. You don't even know its there.

    Also got the Shinko 244 tires on, looks mean! Can't wait to ride, too bad we got 4" of snow the past couple of days.
    [​IMG]

    More mods to come of course....
  16. Attico

    Attico Wrong way 'round

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,068
    Location:
    Aylmer, Quebec
    Which are they?


  17. Scott_PDX

    Scott_PDX Leisure Engineer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,986
    Location:
    Portland...the newer one on the left side.
    I installed a pro-motion billet rack on my 2011 WRR last February. Since then I've ran almost 5000 miles on the little bike and most of that was with some wight on the rack. Did about 2000 miles on the UTBDR with a Large Ortlieb dry bag bungied to the rack on top of a 1 gallon rotopax. I also ran with a Giant Loop Coyote, probably too much stuff, but the rack held all that- over some pretty nasty territory sometimes. I don't think I even worn through the powder coat and the rack still is in fine shape.

    I was worried also about how much you could put on one with that little mounting point surface area, but it's actually a pretty stout part of the rear subframe. Not saying you couldn't bend it, but my guess is the force needed to bend it would bend like most any other rack I've seen - and would most likely would tweak the rear subframe also (not the end of the world though).

    Not saying a billet rack is the best option for you, but I wouldn't worry about the stoutness unless you were really into dual sporting bigger loads on tight trails.
  18. clapped_r6

    clapped_r6 The Spoad Warrior

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,740
    Location:
    Ridgefield, WA
    i believe it's anodised, not powder coated. anyways, +1, i had a promoto billet rack on my 250r and it was money. super strong and stuff
  19. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,882
    Location:
    Walnut Crick, Cal.
    Yup, good rack. I did manage to wear through the anodizing in one place when a bottle of Fat Tire worked it's way through to the bottom of my dry bag. The cap ate through the bag and then started working on the rack before I realized it. :freaky

    Patched the bag (thanks, Wolfman!) and the rack is still good. Just carries a reminder for me about how NOT to carry beer...
  20. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,848
    Location:
    Westchester County, New York
    I just installed new Renthal Fatbars and am about to install a set of Pro Grip 714's. I don't really like how narrow (left to right) the throttle grip has become after cutting off part of the throttle tube (I did this a while back on the OEM bars) to put on hand guards.

    Since my new bars have more area to mount controls on the flats could I buy a new throttle assembly and not have to cut any of the throttle tube? I'm thinking that coupled with the wider (left to right) 714's will allow me a more comfortable hand position. Or should I just buy an aftermarket throttle tube and call it a day?

    Thoughts?

    Also does anyone know if the grip assembly shown here as part 2 comes with the RH grip on the throttle tube already?

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