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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
If it's any consolation, there are no hills in the UP either.
I asked this earlier but I guess no one saw my post, but can I run the stock chain if I move up to 13/46 gearing? Thanks!
according to this http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t5-chains-and-sprockets
No pretty sure 45 is the max depending on tire with stock chain.
No, you'll need a 110L chain for a 13/46 combo. 45 barely fits, but is much happier with a 110L (its what I'm running currently).
For some reason, I was thinking stock chain was 110 links, but now I remember it's in fact 108. I can't imagine 108 will work with 13/46. Sorry.
44 is as big as you can go. I've been running one since July, and you notice the "slight" difference you might think. I'm getting ready to put on a new chain and go to 13-47, so If you want a 44 with 800 miles on it, I'll sell it for $25 shipped. It uses your stock bolts. Steel sprocket.
Thanks, but I'm probably just going to do the same as you and get a new chain and sprocket. Thanks for all the replies.
While looking for an Ignition Hot to tap into I shorted and lost power to my ignition, headlight, tail light, brake lights, horn, and dash console. The blinkers still work and the fuel pump powers up fine. I checked all the fuses and they're all good which makes me think I did something to the Relay Assembly.
Anyone know of a way to check the Relay before I spend the $
If memory serves me correct. There is two locations for fuses? One on the left should side or something? But I could be wrong. Been that before.
I've checked both spots, the 30 amp main is good and all of the individual fuses in the Block are fine as well
Go ahead and put a 47t steel sprocket on her with a 112 link X-ring chain. It's a good dirt ratio without sacrificing the highway too much...IMO
Remember your speedometer will be way off after any final drive ratio change.
What's the most "mileage" anyone gotten out of a fuel pump?
Well, it's time for me to sign out all! I hope you all got a little bit of info from my build. It will be in my signature for a while, so check it out. The WR250R went to a new home today, hopefully it gets may more good miles on her as it gave me.
I'm pretty sure the relay for the lights is the same as the other small relay.
Try swapping the two relays.??
You can also check the continuity of the relay.
Did you disconnect the battery before attempting to tap the line? If not you may have fried a diode in the Starting circuit cut-off relay. You will need a volt meter with diode test capability. It is pretty hard to fry a relay without blowing a fuse so here is the tech manual on sequence to check continuity of your relays and the final check is the diodes. The photos are numbered in sequence as found in the rear of the tech manual. Have fun:huh.
None of the relays I found are alike, all different shapes, sizes, and connectors. The one in question has a 16 pin connector, all the others are much smaller
That's should be the relay. The Start circuit cut off relay and fuel pump Page 2 and 3 above
It is #11 on the wiring diagram, you should be able to see the diodes on the schematic.
If it is the Start circuit cut-off relay(#11)I believe this is the part #<table id="parts_table" class="table table-striped"><tbody><tr id="p_689806"><td class="nam_cel">Relay Assy</td> <td class="num_cel">5VK-81950-40-00 </td> <td class="pri_cel">
</td></tr></tbody></table>$36.34 @ Cheapcycleparts.com http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/mode...wr250r-wr25ral/assemblies/258922-electrical-2
Battery was in and the Key was on. I was using a test light trying to verify I had the taillight connector. Last thing I did was tell myself to not let the probe hit two posts at the same time, the rest is history :dog
I'm in denial and was hoping it would be something simple. Thanks for the prod, looks like I'll be learning about the WR electrical system later today
That's the part I have in my hand, less the "-00" on the end. I'll feel a lot better ordering it once I test it and know it has a problem. Thanks