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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
i am interested in how you are going to mount it to the frame
I am thinking about selling my Excell dirt wheels for an X. They are black rims, they have Tubliss and some high mileage 606s on them.
I want to do my suspension and I have been pretty happy with the Shinkos on my 17" wheels so I am thinking about selling these. They also have the rotors and a sprocket in decent condition.
I may be talked into a partial trade for stock X wheels.
If anyone is interested let me know. Preference to local riders as I would prefer not to ship them.
I have not posted in the flea market or other areas yet. I don't pay much attention to my wheels, I just try to run them off.
a pic of them on the bike just before I took them off...
They are not new. If you want pristine, shiny, new wheels these are not for you. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I sure would had to see someone make the wrong purchase
I'm not good with words.. lol I do agree the CRF250L is a great bike, but man.. it just doesn't feel as nimble/quick/fast as the WR250R... so the review or debate really is.. how do you ride. If we are talking country road adventure riding then ok... not a LOT of advantage but if we take it deeper in the woods and what the bike ultimately can do, then I think we see the WRRs differences become more evident quickly...
Maybe it's just me.. Ramz has both so maybe he can pipe in more.. but after riding the CRF its a great bike for adventure touring but I just didn't feel it handle as good. more casual rider position and i did noticed the extra weight..
Feb' issue of Rider mag did a review of the CRF/KLX/WR, they put #1 WR, #2 KLX, #3 CRF, they write,
"The strongest performer overall, no matter the surface is the Yamaha. But its not perfect -- an annoying narrow clutch engagement point makes day-to-day riding more difficult and hinders clutch slipping in technical off-pavement work. It's also cold-blooded, which is unusual for the fuel-injected machine. Still, the most serious riders - at least with serious bank accounts - will buy the Yamaha, spin up the best 250cc motor we've seen and never look back. Because if they do, there might be a KLX250S nipping at their knobs."
I guess if I just putted around and enjoyed light adventure riding and wanted to save some cash on features of a bike I'll never really use, then I'd look at the CRF250L.. but since I don't fit that class... I made the right purchase
Happy Monday fellas!
Never had much trouble with my WR starting on cold mornings???......then again, "Sun" Diego is a different type of "cold"
That said, my 350XCF-W is much more temperamental than the WR ever was....I have to choke it everytime in the morning (yes, it has a choke unlike the WR....also has a kick back-up which is nice)
I'm surprised how well the 17" work (Distanzias)...or did I say that awready...
Managed to putt up to the tiptop of Parker Mountain locally, can have some real technical sections after the rains. Was a piece o cake.
About 12,000 here on my 08. Workin fine. Never run dry! Fires & runs flawlessly on 8 degree mornings:eek1
Wish my 2 local dealers had either bike to at least look at. I like the Honda's price and know it won't be a big seller, so leftovers should be able to be had cheap. I still lean towards the Yamaha
Have picked up an Orange Bike also (450 EXC), and now I understand what they mean when they say KTM's are race bikes with a plate. Choke, finicky pumper carb, petcock, kickstart on cold and don't get me started on the 10 hours per oil change. Once it's running and you are at the trailhead, the grin factor is huge, but up to that point, the WR's still a winner. The "Just get on it and go" factor is huge on the WR.
Sat on one of those new hondas over the weekend. I could actually flat foot the thing which is nice, but man...there's a lot cheap looking plastic all over that thing. It sure doesn't feel like a dirt bike in the showroom. The salesman wasn't kind on comparing it to a WR, other than the price being less.
The dealers can't keep the Honda in stock people are waiting months for them so far its a huge seller and has a huge following! Having rode my buddies its not even close to a wrr but your not gonna find any lying around most greedy dealers marked them up
Same back at ya :) Nice write up. I've said it before, and I'll say it again - for me, your setup is perfect - I love this pic...
I've been thinking about luggage a lot, and some of the rides in my future. I wonder, is there any way to lock the Wolfman bags closed?
Is that a Giant Loop brand bag you have there, or one you rigged? Looks huge, yet not out of place. What have you got stowed inside?
Thanks! Hmm.. locking the Wolfman bags.. I guess you could rig up something to detour thieves but if you had a knife you could cut right in to them.
I only run the rear Pelican iM2100 when I have my video gear with me on a ride.. but it does work very very well, better than I expected to be honest.... I have locks for it, and I can take it off/on very quickly.. take my gear in the tent or room for the night. Put it on my Versys too.. It has never moved or fallen off even on the rough stuff.. I put a small piece of that rubber drawer liner under it.
I should add.. yes a thief could just take the Pelican off the bike easily but if you dont' know how to do that you'd struggle, plus I usually have a Wolfman Enduro bag strapped against it hiding the ratchet strap..
For big trips I have a Wolfman duffel that I'll take, with more than enough room for everything!
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now everyone knows how to quickly steal my stuff :)
On the topic of the 21" vs. 17" vs. 19" front wheel...Well I have a WR250X with the 17" wheels on Avon Distanzias and a KLX351 with standard 21"/18" wheels on MT21 knobbys. The paved roads around me seem to be some of the roughest around, and I will always pick the WRX with the 17's if that's where I"m riding. It just handles pavement, rough or smooth, better than the dirt setup. I think the extra width of the 17's helps, because it feels more stable and with the Distanzias is much smoother. Now the 19" front wheel does interest me. If the OP on that topic goes that route, be sure to post pics and give us a report.
The local dope with a star tattooed on his forehead (not kidding) at my dealer never even knew one existed. We have zero curves in this state, but sportbikes get the ladies, so that's all they care to sell.
Mine doesn't like starting at -20, but then again neither does my car when its not plugged in. Pretty good if its above 0 and has been run recently, but I've found my WR doesn't like sitting for very long.
That is a Giantloop Coyote with another bag strapped on top.
It is from this ride report where you will find all the details you are looking for...
One reason to stick with 21/18 is that they will use the same brake caliper location and disc size. Also, I would think you would need to adjust the suspension to go 21 > 17 in the front, and 18 > 17 in the rear. Ditto the chain length. No big deal maybe, but messing with brakes and forks with every wheel swap would be a turn-off for me.
Just buy another set of 21/18 wheels, and mount some Trailwings or Shinko 700s on one set, and run DOT knobbies on the other.
I just picked up a Coyote, it's fantastic. Lots of room, very solid on the bike, very little frontal footprint.
They are on sale at atomic moto for about $250 w/free shipping right now. I think rocky mountain had a deal too.
Ok, so I've read the how to on lowering my stock suspension, and seen some settings on how to get it set up for better riding (high fives settings). But I cannot find a how to on it. I found the actual settings in the post below, but does someone have a how to with pics or video to show me HOW to put these settings into place? I have already lowered the stock front and rear. I'm simply looking to get the rebound, dampening, etc set up right for my 155 pound body at this point so bumps will stop wanting to buck me off like a raging bull. Thanks.