Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. ggemelos

    ggemelos Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2004
    Oddometer:
    214
    Location:
    New York, NY
    I noticed a lot of people in this thread have replaced the stock bars with aftermarket bars. What is the main reason for doing so, is it ergonomics or are aftermarket bars less prone to damage during a crash? Given that most aftermarket bars are aluminum and the stock are steel, I would have thought the stock would be stronger. Thanks for the feedback.
  2. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,918
    Location:
    Germany
    Most aluminum fat bars are stronger than the cheap steel 7/8" OEM bars. Also, lighter.

    And in most cases, the fat bars will not have the silly cross bar that seems to just be in the way when you want to add things like RAM mounts, or hand guards.
  3. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    446
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    In a word? MacGyver.
  4. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,963
    Location:
    Westchester County, New York
    +1 on the grease. I was going to use waterproof grease

    I was referring to bolt 2 in this diagram:

    [​IMG]

    I'm not sure what nut you are referring to
  5. MeefZah

    MeefZah Curmudgeonly

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2003
    Oddometer:
    11,655
    Location:
    Lost Coast, Cali
    More bend resistant in a crash or a drop.
  6. Longboardr

    Longboardr Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    154
    Location:
    south central PA
    That looks to be a shoulder bolt, you can tighten to your hearts content. The shoulder of the bolt hits what you're tightening it against and stops you from being able to pinch/bind the pedal from over tightening.
  7. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,476
    Location:
    NJ
    Too many bikes I work on...KTM has nut on backside. WRR threads into frame boss.

    Still same advice....just snug....washer and clip will keep bolt from working itself out. If worried, and I think I did this on mine, a small drop of blue(medium) thread locker on bolt. Threaded aluminum is not too strong, so I'd be surprised if torque spec( for that bolt) was any higher than 8-9 ft/lbs.
  8. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,087
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    Maybe I misspoke? The WRX caliper and rotor is different than the WRR. I guess with a custom wheel set up correctly, you can swap easier.

    It is hard to imagine that dropping the front 2" wouldn't have an impact on handling. When lowering the bike using the shock clevis, everyone raises the forks 1/2"-3/4" to compensate. Lowering amount is a smaller change that 21">17" front swap.
  9. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,963
    Location:
    Westchester County, New York
    Thanks

    Just make sure you remove the clip off the back before removing the bolt (oops).
  10. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    7,476
    Location:
    NJ
    LOL....yeah.
  11. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    446
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP? I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well?
  12. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,175
    Location:
    Behind the Redwood Curtain
    >"I'm curious, if you just install this header, does it increase the bikes' HP?"

    I think the bike reaches max RPM's much easier. Without the header I didn't reach the cutoff-rpm very easily. After the header, it winds much easier to the cutoff point. I also think the header improved the torque through the powerband... (and quite a bit). But I don't think it made much of a difference on the max hp. Am running a quiet spark arrestor, more with the exhaust open... I dunno. (see below)

    >"I'm also wondering about the volume, does that increase a lot as well? "

    Didn't really notice anything in the volume. I'm running the header with a Q4 exhaust... and an install of the 'Powercore' spark arrestor (the quiet one I can't remember the part number, somewhere here in the thread).

    IMHO: Pretty reasonable noise levels.
  13. DefyInertia

    DefyInertia Saratogian

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    165
    Location:
    San Francisco
    Got it, I didn't get that you meant X swap. I would say buy the x wheel and an R rotor if not wanting to mess with the caliper/MC stuff. Don't really need custom and incremental cost is small. Stoppies all day and fine for street, but my brake hand does get awful tired at the motard track.

    Yes it impacts handling, it handles like the X. Whoot! Lower over all with lower front relative to R. This is a good thing, not something that needs to be compensated for like when simply lowering the R for a shorter rider.

    My point is, I have sportsman set ups and tard setups, the 17s are the way to go (for second set) IMO and an easy swap.
  14. Llamaha

    Llamaha Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    858
    Location:
    Bogota Colombia
    I am thinking of purchasing the 21/18 set for my WRX from wheeling cycle supply, anyone here had any issues with these? It will have to be a straight swap kit or I won't have the time to swap them ever. Can I use the same chain?
  15. Jungle Man

    Jungle Man frenzied adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    648
    Location:
    Camas Washington
    I've heard good things about wheeling cycle supply.
    I got my warp 9's new on ebay. They are a direct swap out and only $719 total. They seem to be stout; have handled bouncing on rocks with a flat for a few seconds, and a few hard hits.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-WH...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc9b201b5&vxp=mtr
  16. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,918
    Location:
    Germany
    I've got the 18/21 SM Pro kit on my X and they are indeed a direct swap. I also bought OEM brake rotors to save me the hassle of swapping those when I want to switch back and forth between street and dirt. Makes it real easy, and the larger diameter rotor up front offers great stopping power. I also bought a 49T sprocket for the rear wheel, and I use a 110 link chain.

    You can use the same chain as long as you use the same size rear sprocket, but for dirt, you'll probably want 3 or 4 extra teeth in the rear.


    [​IMG]


  17. Llamaha

    Llamaha Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    858
    Location:
    Bogota Colombia
    Thank you very much for the responses guys, I think it will give it the green light :)
  18. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    591
    Location:
    Oneida, Tenn.
    I have searched on this thread, but I can't find any response to a question Kingwolf once posed (2years ago). I have a new Attitude Ind. FI programmer model 3.2 coming and wanted to know if anyone here has bought and successfully programed it for their WRR; standard Mods, FMF pipes,AIS & flapper removed. Just looking for baseline numbers to start off with.:ear
  19. sodapop

    sodapop Caffeinated

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    138
    Location:
    Central Texas
    I think confusion comes with the difference between X and R hubs. If I understand correctly, the front rotors are not interchangeable.

    So, if you are starting with a WRR, which has the small front rotor, you can put on a 17" front wheel made with the WRR hub without changing the caliper. This means you will have a motard setup with a smaller front brake rotor than what Yamaha chose to put on the WRX.

    If you are starting with a WRX, which has the large front rotor, you can put on a 21" front wheel made with the WRX hub without changing the caliper. This means you will have an off-road setup with a larger front brake rotor than what Yamaha chose to put on the WRR.

    Some people buy the complete other front brake system with caliper, line, and lever. This way they can more easily change rotor sizes without bleeding brakes. Another idea is to have an "X" diameter rotor made to fit on an "R" hub.


    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
  20. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,702
    Location:
    Marion, IA
    I used to think two sets of wheels was the cool, flatbill, black socks, bro thing to do, then I found myself going down gravel/dirt with the 17's and commuting on the 21/18....purely out of laziness but the hassle no matter if it's 10 minutes or an hour just wasn't for me.

    Not matter how you shake it, it will take lot of tire changes to match the value of two sets of wheels, rotors, chains. Just makes stupid financial sense to me in my older age....then again this hobby has very little that is cheap or that makes financial sense. :deal