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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
god that looks fun!
Studs are in my plans.
Hope you can do a photo report with the wiring mods. As for the brakes suggest the Galfer or HEL lines and Black semi-metallics 1054 compound from Galfer .
CRF250L - My verdict - heavy/gutless/lower end components than WR......heavier than WR.....non adjustable suspension..........he broke off his mirrors and bent the wimpy handlebar (cheesy handlebar similar to stock WRR handlebar).....but the owner is a short/~165lb/mellow rider.....for him, the Honda works fine......he won't be pushing the suspension, the weight is low, the seat is low......the bike chugs along "good enough" for him......
He handled everything I threw at him......slowly/cautiously.....but he made it (most of the time :eek1 )
Sample of my backyard single track......video shot by a buddy this past weekend:
I'm up to ~500+ miles on the 350XCF-W now....dream machine....
Anybody want to trade for a sweet fz6?
so that was what at least three oil changes and one valve adjustment
I have ridden one, they are fun bikes!
I'm hoping to improve my stability in sand a bit. I'm wondering if doing the stock lowering on the rear, but leaving the front alone will help without messing up my handling too much. Has anyone tried this? Thoughts?
If it matters, I'm about 155 pounds (without gear) and all I've done to the suspension is set the sag and increase rebound damping.
hell yea !!!!
It is more about technique. The wrr has a relatively slack fork angle which is what lowering the rear does.
Lean back. Use throttle, and realise there is no stability in sand. Just get comfortable with a constant front end hunt.
Alright, I've made a down payment on an 08 WR250R with only 650 miles on it. Will pay it off this week and then wait for delivery from PA. Soon, very soon.
I think sewerat's pic should be front page! It says a lot about a lot...
What size rear tire do yo have?
I get 70 mpg (vs 63mpg w/ 10%) loaded down and riding 'easy' on dirt using pure/clear gas. That is 140 miles vs 126 miles on the tank or 189 vs 210 miles carrying a gallon. Up in the remotes it does make a difference between getting there and not getting there.
or just go to https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4vTrl82_gM9U25teEtBakM5bzA/edit?usp=sharing&pli=1
and get the gpx file and stash it on your GPS or what have ya'.
My source was the Pure-gas.org site. FOR NON-COMMERCIAL USE only. Please do record your own updates and current confirmations at their web site.
I've got the stock trailwing on the back still, swapping it for a 120 t63 today though.
Hmmm... does the cover come out of the right or the left hand side of the bike? Anybody have a video or pictures of the top end? Kind of feeling my way through it.
I'm pretty sure I pulled the cover out on the non-radiator side, but I can't remember. Took a lot of wiggling thats for sure. Only had to do it once a long while ago ya know?
Hi all just an inquiry on how many miles will the engine cover with out a re-build.
I'm sitting at just a hair under 43,000 miles and haven't seen further than under the valve cover to do a clearance check. Intake valves were fine, exhaust were barely out of spec, at ~25,000.
I am a bit heavier.. well a lot heavier than you (250 lbs) and the single best thing I did to improve how the bike handles in sand was to install a steering stabilizer (Scotts with a SUBmount in my case). Granted I am not a very aggressive rider but the Scotts unit made the bike so much more manageable on the south GA sand roads.