Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. ggemelos

    ggemelos Been here awhile

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    I am looking at picking up a set of Pro Taper Contour bars. I am happy with the stock ride position and was wondering which bars are closest to the stock geometry.
  2. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    Why change bars if the stock ones feel fine?
  3. ggemelos

    ggemelos Been here awhile

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    Get rid of the cross bar and more resistant to bending in a crash. I also am thinking of a Scotts stabilizer and do not believe it would fit with the stock top clamp and bar setup.
  4. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    No reason to make an assumption based off of one person's experience.
  5. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    Well said. Just look at the variation in fuel pump problems! Heading to Death Valley end of March, original pump, over 11,000 & no spare pump. Crazy? Maybe? Paranoid no!
  6. Longboardr

    Longboardr Been here awhile

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    I was in the same position and went with the Pastrana FMX bend.

    If you decide to mount a stabilizer with an under the clamp mount you could go with a Pastrana MX/RM LOW bend to keep the bars from getting too high.

    Pro Taper gives you dimensions of the bars here
  7. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    Anyone know of a tail rack that is compatible with a Rotopax mount? One that no drilling would be needed.
  8. ggemelos

    ggemelos Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the feedback. It make sense to pick somewhat lower bars to offset the risers needed for the stabilize.
  9. oldtrucks

    oldtrucks Been here awhile

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  10. huron52

    huron52 Been here awhile

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    What size of socket/ allen wrench do I need to remove the front axle? 17 mm is to big 14mm looks too small Is it a 15mm, if so where do I find one... Or do I even need on to remove the axle?
  11. GSBS

    GSBS FunHog

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    Deadblow hammer or rubber mallet... remove axle nut (27mm), loosen the four pinch bolts around axle, tap with hammer to remove. If it's gritty or stuck you may have to use a drift (I use a 3/8" extension) to tap it once the nut end of the axle is inside the left fork. The end with the hex is not threaded, but larger than the part of the axle that goes through the wheel, so once you drive it 2" or so (width of the fork leg) it's easily removed.
  12. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    Thanks!

    Well, I'm all set. Driving down to Palm Springs tomorrow and scheduled to pick up a new (to me) 2011 Wrr. Going to drive it back to Salt Lake via the back roads in Nevada in an attempt to stay as low and dry as possible back up here. Pics to follow :)
  13. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    Now thats some style:clap:clap
  14. huron52

    huron52 Been here awhile

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    Thanks!
  15. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    I just saw the news just now and we're supposed to get 3-6" of snow here starting tomorrow sometime. Hope its gone in 8 days, may have to point it south before north. Any suspension experts in Phoenix I can look up?
  16. Mr. Fisherman

    Mr. Fisherman PROUD 2B Riff Raff!

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    I hadn't touched or started my lil quarter pounder since August when I screwed up my quadriceps tendon. Had to air up both tires, turned on the key.... and it fired right up :clap Took a little put around the yard and the culdesac. Felt good.
  17. Scott_PDX

    Scott_PDX Leisure Engineer

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    :beer Congrats on getting back on two wheels!
  18. SuperD!

    SuperD! Been here awhile

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    Where Portlandia is more than just a TV show.
  19. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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  20. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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    There is also this:[​IMG]
    Mounted looks like this:[​IMG]

    They're at Automotive Machine Shop: http://www.automotivemachine.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=56

    Congratulations on the New 2011 WRR