Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Sewerat

    Sewerat Cert. bike whore

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    Brooksdale, ON
    I have not had an issue with my pump 30k kms on bike about 20k of that has been with an ims 3gal tank. But I did have a failure with a 2007 versys fuel pump. Died and left me stranded in a parking lot. Same deal just shy of $400
  2. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Whoever has installed one of these things were you able to get a lot of threads into the nylock nuts on the front most bolts? Seems like those bolts could be a few mm longer
  3. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

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    >"Whoever has installed one of these things were you able to get a lot of threads into the nylock nuts on the front most bolts? Seems like those bolts could be a few mm longer "

    I believe there were two shim lengths provided (ie. tubular shims). If you have the wrong shims in the wrong place the bolts will turn out to be too short.
  4. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    I put the long ones in the front and the short ones in the rear since the instructions didn't specify. It seemed to leave the rack nicely balanced front to rear. Did I mix it up?
  5. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

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    >"I put the long ones in the front and the short ones in the rear "

    I think it's the opposite...
  6. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    Thanks guys, I ordered one of these.
  7. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    I'm sensing that :lol3
  8. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

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    >"I'm sensing that :lol3 "

    Heh... I put mine together the wrong way too... the first time.
  9. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Fairbanks, AK
    I broke my first fuel pump at 25kish miles when I dropped the fuel tank and snapped the lead off. Current one is an '08 fuel pump I bought cheap from a rider on here as a replacement with unknown miles on it before I got it, and it currently has another 20k on it from me, with no issues. Every bike needs a problem area I guess, and the odd bad $215 fuel pump seems to be the only real issue for the WRR/X.

    Dave
  10. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
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    446
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    So I'm going to look at my prospective WRR on Monday. It's a 2011 with 375 miles on it. It has some scratches on it from a low speed fall(s), otherwise it's like new. Are there any things I should look for before pulling the proverbial trigger?
  11. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    Correctly signed title:wink:
  12. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Oct 9, 2007
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    Location:
    tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.
    Also had a Kawasaki 650 (2006 ninja 650R) pump fail leaving me stuck in a parking lot about 5 miles from my house. The rare occurrence of pump failures for those bikes seem to have a common trait of the owners running the tank low, often. I certainly did.
  13. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

    Joined:
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    Location:
    seattle
    @ Duanew1:


    Are you running the 3.50 or 4.00 width on that? How's it run on the hiway?

    Thanks.
  14. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Fairbanks, AK
    Decided that before I really truly decide to keep her or not, I better see how the old girl's motor's doing. To that end, its time to do a compression check to see how well the last 43,000 miles have treated her.

    Step 1 - start the motor and let everything warm up

    step 2 - take the seat, side panels, front wing panels, and gas tank off

    step 3 - remove spark plug

    step 4 - realize that the compression tester you bought doesn't have a 10mm thread adapter, you know the one you need to do the test

    step 5 - Run to every hardware store, auto parts store, and motorcycle dealership in town looking for an adapter, in vain

    step 6 - Admit defeat, buy the gauge kit that's 2x as expensive as the one you first bought a few days ago, and return home

    step 7 - put the old plug back in, coil back on, and gas tank back on. Start motor again to warm it up again.

    step 8 - Pull it all apart again.

    step 9 - Thread in the compression tester... and... and...


    :cry

    She's not quite dead, but she's hurting very badly. Best dry compression it could muster is 75psi. Added some oil down the bore, and it spiked to just over 100psi. Spec is 121psi, low of 105, high of 135.

    :cry


    Its not entirely unexpected, as before I put her up for winter she felt a little down on power and had been dirtying the oil faster than normal. I was hoping it was just clutch wear causing the oil to go bad, and that the power thing was just my imagination, but the reality is the motor's old and tired. Glad I found it out not, before I spent a bunch of money on the suspension, but still..

    Not sure what to do at this point. Right now, I'm just sad. :cry
  15. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

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    Super tight valve clearances might keep them off the seat enough to leak.

    That was my old fuel pump you bought, btw, the one I replaced it with took a nap out in the boonies. Can't win...:lol3
  16. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    If it comes down to it, do you want it back? :lol3
  17. Buzzbomber

    Buzzbomber Not Dr. Who...

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    Why?
  18. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

    Joined:
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    seattle
    Nah, If you sell the bike just say you know the pump has been tested extensively and works fine...
  19. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Fairbanks, AK
    Because I'm not sure what to do with it at this point?

    I don't know if I can just throw a new piston and rings in it, or if I have to have the cylinder cleaned up too, then have the valve seats (at least) cleaned up, and roll on, or if its going to require a lot more than that. This would be my first top end replacement on any motor I've ever done.

    *edit* spent most of the night not relaxing, and researching. Seems you can get by just cleaning up the cylinder since its Nikasil to deglaze it, and go from there. New piston, rings, pins, gaskets, etc ordered, along with a bunch of other stuff. Looks like this minor winter refresh is going major...
  20. ebrew

    ebrew Motorcycle A.D.D.

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    for removing all the junk off the rear fender sub-frame. Just helping my brother to get this bike more DS ready. Would like to remove the turn signals, brake light and plate holder ass. I do need to keep it road legal just would like to find a great kit to "fix" this great little bike. Any help would be great as i dont know much about this bike.

    thanx

    We have removed the stock exhaust and the exhaust valve are there any mods to remove the crap all over the air box on this bike?