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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Thanks guys, I ordered one of these.
I'm sensing that
>"I'm sensing that "
Heh... I put mine together the wrong way too... the first time.
I broke my first fuel pump at 25kish miles when I dropped the fuel tank and snapped the lead off. Current one is an '08 fuel pump I bought cheap from a rider on here as a replacement with unknown miles on it before I got it, and it currently has another 20k on it from me, with no issues. Every bike needs a problem area I guess, and the odd bad $215 fuel pump seems to be the only real issue for the WRR/X.
So I'm going to look at my prospective WRR on Monday. It's a 2011 with 375 miles on it. It has some scratches on it from a low speed fall(s), otherwise it's like new. Are there any things I should look for before pulling the proverbial trigger?
Correctly signed title
Also had a Kawasaki 650 (2006 ninja 650R) pump fail leaving me stuck in a parking lot about 5 miles from my house. The rare occurrence of pump failures for those bikes seem to have a common trait of the owners running the tank low, often. I certainly did.
Are you running the 3.50 or 4.00 width on that? How's it run on the hiway?
Decided that before I really truly decide to keep her or not, I better see how the old girl's motor's doing. To that end, its time to do a compression check to see how well the last 43,000 miles have treated her.
Step 1 - start the motor and let everything warm up
step 2 - take the seat, side panels, front wing panels, and gas tank off
step 3 - remove spark plug
step 4 - realize that the compression tester you bought doesn't have a 10mm thread adapter, you know the one you need to do the test
step 5 - Run to every hardware store, auto parts store, and motorcycle dealership in town looking for an adapter, in vain
step 6 - Admit defeat, buy the gauge kit that's 2x as expensive as the one you first bought a few days ago, and return home
step 7 - put the old plug back in, coil back on, and gas tank back on. Start motor again to warm it up again.
step 8 - Pull it all apart again.
step 9 - Thread in the compression tester... and... and...
She's not quite dead, but she's hurting very badly. Best dry compression it could muster is 75psi. Added some oil down the bore, and it spiked to just over 100psi. Spec is 121psi, low of 105, high of 135.
Its not entirely unexpected, as before I put her up for winter she felt a little down on power and had been dirtying the oil faster than normal. I was hoping it was just clutch wear causing the oil to go bad, and that the power thing was just my imagination, but the reality is the motor's old and tired. Glad I found it out not, before I spent a bunch of money on the suspension, but still..
Not sure what to do at this point. Right now, I'm just sad.
Super tight valve clearances might keep them off the seat enough to leak.
That was my old fuel pump you bought, btw, the one I replaced it with took a nap out in the boonies. Can't win...
If it comes down to it, do you want it back?
Nah, If you sell the bike just say you know the pump has been tested extensively and works fine...
Because I'm not sure what to do with it at this point?
I don't know if I can just throw a new piston and rings in it, or if I have to have the cylinder cleaned up too, then have the valve seats (at least) cleaned up, and roll on, or if its going to require a lot more than that. This would be my first top end replacement on any motor I've ever done.
*edit* spent most of the night not relaxing, and researching. Seems you can get by just cleaning up the cylinder since its Nikasil to deglaze it, and go from there. New piston, rings, pins, gaskets, etc ordered, along with a bunch of other stuff. Looks like this minor winter refresh is going major...
for removing all the junk off the rear fender sub-frame. Just helping my brother to get this bike more DS ready. Would like to remove the turn signals, brake light and plate holder ass. I do need to keep it road legal just would like to find a great kit to "fix" this great little bike. Any help would be great as i dont know much about this bike.
We have removed the stock exhaust and the exhaust valve are there any mods to remove the crap all over the air box on this bike?
I am using the 4.0 on the rear. I really have not done that many highwway miles with it as I have not been riding that much lately. It did feel fine when I did though. I have it set up like you would a MT43 with rim locks and about 12psi. It took a bit to get used to the feel of them but they do have great traction. It is a very soft tire and very easy to mount.
If you decide to have the cylinder brought back up to spec. I have used Millennium technologies in the past they are very good and not too expensive. Send them your piston/cylinder and what you want for clearance and it will come back spot on like brand new.
I mis-read the original post somehow......serves me right for being up still at 1 am.
I did some quick math.......... 40K miles at an average overall speed of 40 mph, with and average rpm of 8k........... works out to around a half a BILLION cycles of the piston. Amazing really. If you count each pass up and down the rings have followed the length of the bore a full Billion times.
Looking at it another way............. The stroke x 2 = .35170604 feet, so it only takes about 15012.5 revolutions of the crank for the piston to travel a mile in the bore......... so in 40,000 miles, on the bike, the piston travels approximately 33,300 miles down the bore. :huh