Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. BMW-K

    BMW-K F800GS FTW!

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    Three is better. :)

    I decided I needed a bit more light on the WR and I didn't like my current fog light options. So I decided to fab up some metal brackets...

    [​IMG]

    I used 16g. steel because that's what I had laying around and a couple of Sanjoh 2000lumen LED foggies...

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    And then I found a third lamp that I had laying about. 'Cuz, you know, if one is good, and two is better then...

    [​IMG]

    THREE must freaking ROCK!

    :lol3

    I still need to rattle can some bedliner on the brackets for looks but I'm super happy with the setup!
  2. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

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  3. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    So new that I haven't bought one yet.:D

    But I think the WR250R will be my next. I realize that I could read every page of this odyssey but at 55, I may not live long enough to do so. So is there any chance you folks could answer a few Q's?

    Thanks in advance!

    Buying used:
    Are there any model years that are preferred or should be avoided?
    What WR specific issues should be scrutinized when looking over a bike?
    In general, how many "well maintained" miles can the bike be ridden before major work is needed?

    Buying new or used:
    Using aftermarket links, how much can the bike be lowered?
    Is there a favorite larger fuel tank?
    Are there options for FI mapping?

    With stock gearing, what speed and rpms do you get running your top gear high cruise?

    Thanks for your input. If all goes well and I get one I'll post up some epic TAT pics next year.
  4. BlueLghtning

    BlueLghtning Riding is my passion

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    Hey man, good to see you over here in the WRR thread after your DR vs WRR TAT thread.

    The WR250R came out in 2008 and hasn't changed. All models are blue with a silver frame although graphics may have changed slightly over the years. The WR250X also came out in 2008 but got a black frame and different years were different colors. Of course it has 17 wheels, but also a larger front brake rotor. Suspension between the 2 is the same. Some people prefer the WRX and then get the Warp 9 wheels you can buy in 18/21 that are a direct bolt on and accommodate the larger front brake rotor. I think the WRX was dropped for 2013.

    The weak point of these bikes is the fuel pump, but I don't really think there is a rhyme or reason. Some people have no issues, and others have been through 2 pumps already. It seems heat is a big killer, but again its all over the map on whose had issues and who hasn't.

    Looking used, you are most likely to find the 2008 models. I guess they made a ton of them that year and many people bought left over 2008 models into 09, 10, etc. The WRR motors seem pretty robust, so like any bike, a good maintenance schedule and how the owner took care of it is probably the key points to look at.

    I don't need the bike lowered myself, but I believe I've read built into the stock shock is a bit of height adjustment. There is also a lowering link available if needed. You might look at getting one of the lower seat options though to see if that gets you where you need. Seat Concepts makes a low seat along with the Spiral Step down seat.

    For fuel tanks, there are 3 options. Stock tank is 2gals and its tiny, so an aftermarket tank is a must. IMS makes a 3.1 gal and a 4.7gal. Safari makes the 3.7gal, but its the priciest of the bunch. The IMS 3.1 uses your stock shrouds while both the Safari and the IMS 4.7 don't. - http://justgastanks.com/index.php?cPath=4_42_337

    There are a couple FI options. The most popular by far the FMF fuel mapper. Its very reasonably priced and is very simple to setup on the fly. No PC needed. It can only add fuel though, not take it away.

    The other is a PCIII, but you either need a PC or the autotune option. The PCIII does have the advantage of being able to take fuel away, but a custom map really would be needed to take full effect. Its also more $$$.

    Stock, most people agree the WRR is geared way too high and many gear it down quite a bit. The bike really comes alive with lower gearing and a few mods. Totally changes the bike. There is no Tach, so don't really know the RPM's. The motor does like to be revved and will run 65-70 pretty comfortably.

    One more thing you may need depending on how bad it bothers you. In stock form, the WRR/WRX speedo's are terribly optimistic and since they read the speed of the counter shaft sprocket, it gets way worse when you lower the gearing. Thankfully, SpeedoDRD makes a pretty slick device that corrects this - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/reviews-intro/bikeparts/97-speedodrd. There are other options too out there.

    BTW, the WRR has a 350w stator and the first valve check is at 26k. :evil No other DS even comes close to that!
  5. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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  6. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Great info. Thanks.

    If I'm in the desert and the fuel pump croaks, can I replace it there? Do I need to drain the tank to do so? Are they big bucks? I doubt the issue is widespread enough to warrant carrying a spare but it never rains if I bring the rain gear so maybe it's good insurance to carry one out west.
  7. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Now that's a music video! Looks great, sounds great. Did you do FI changes for it?
  8. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    using the pcv yes i did
    :D
  9. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    top veiw of my lcd touch screen for my pcv
    [​IMG]
  10. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    my weird looking header
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  11. indypup

    indypup ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

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  12. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    I can answer a few of your questions as I just got a 2011 WRR. It had 350 miles on it, and I rode it back from Palm Springs. It was great on the road, WAY better than I expected. I'll add some things to BlueLghtning's comments below.


    From everything I've read it seemed as if this was only a 2008 issue, am I mistaken on that?

    I got a Seat Concepts seat with the lower foam and just love it, 800 miles last weekend and I could still sit on Monday :) They say it lowers the seat height by 3/4 of an inch, so that plus the factory lower (1") and the lowering link (1"), you can get 2 & 3/4". Personally I feel pretty good with just the 3/4" seat lower, but I'm going to do the factory one too and see how I like it.

    Can't really improve upon Rick Ramsey's page on lowering the WRR...
    http://www.rickramsey.net/WR250Rmods.htm#lower

    I'm going with the 3 gallon IMS, I have a 1.5 gallon Rotopax for the rear rack and can easily add more via the Wolfman racks I have on order so I think I'm covered. My bike is also my daily driver so the 3 gallon will be fitting my life better.

    I went with the Two Brothers Juicebox It's less expensive and seems easier to use, plus I'm getting one of their pipes. :evil

    I read a post by ADV Grifter that is a great idea for a solution to this - put a cheap bicycle computer on the bars, that's what I'm going to do.

    That's all I've got for now - good luck with your purchase!
  13. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    In general, wr pumps don't fail. When they do, they run wonky for a while befor quitting entirely giving you time to get to civilization. If it fails, you get to pull the tank and unbolt the old. You could probably do it with a small amount in the tank bu generally you'd want it empty.
  14. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Thanks for the help guys! I'm glad I don't have to reinvent the wheel while I'm reinventing my new wheels.:D
  15. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    For any of the guys that run Dunlop D606's on the WRR, what size did you get?? Looks likes a 120/90 18 might be the closest to stock, albeit an inch taller than stock?

    I have a buddy that rides/rode the same stuff as me, and is thinking I will hate the Shinko 244 and/or the Kenda 760 in the area sand. So I may pony up and get the more expensive tire.

    Thanks for the input.
  16. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    Yep, that's the one. I put one on just as we headed into Baja in early January, and it's lasted so far about 3800 miles of 50% pavement and 50% dirt/deep sand/sharp rocks/gravel/mud/whatever Baja can throw at you. I like it.

    I liked the MT43 I had before, but it only lasted about 2500 miles.
  17. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    OK, thanks for the info HWD...appreciate it. :clap

    What did you run for a front?? I am tempted just to leave on the XCMH, or throw on an old Track Master I have laying around.
  18. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    An MT21. I think I like it--hell, it's lasted more than 5000 miles and never gave me a problem with traction. But it gave me the willies with its bizarre wear pattern:

    [​IMG]
  19. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer

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    Why do you only use every other knob??? :lol3


    .
  20. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Thats how every front knob has worn for me on this bike. :dunno

    I still think the 120/90-18 D606 is the best rear tire for this bike. Lasts forever, good traction on every kind of surface, and decently priced. Strong like bull.

    For the front, I'd get a Pirelli MT21 or MT16 for something more aggressive. I like the front D606 too, but it might be because I'm used to it and how it handles. I found it to be predictable, but fairly sensitive to tire presssure... too much and it would slide everywhere, too little and it wouldn't have any feedback.