Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. SR1

    SR1 Back in S. Korea

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    You know, lots of people say they have to rev the WR high to get it to perform, but that's exactly the same RPM band I'd be in in the same trail conditions. I think the bike has plenty of grunt off-idle with just a "mild" gearing (13/47) and exhaust upgrade. Granted, I'm not "fast" but that's where I'd be riding.
  2. Pantah

    Pantah PJ Fan from Boston

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    That's what I tell myself too. Am I doing this or not...
    :lol3

    I never regret it either.
  3. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    well everyone has defferent riding styles and needs so same set up will not work for everybody
  4. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

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    Does anyone know why Yamaha filled the needle bearings in the rear suspension linkage "rocker" with plastic material rather than grease? It's the first time I've seen it done that way.

    The only thing I can think of.... is that there isn't very much travel in those bearings? It doesn't make sense to me, because there isn't any room for lubricant, and if water makes it's way in I would think they would be prone to rust more quickly?
  5. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    did you go ahead and fill it with grease?
  6. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    My problem is I need it set up for ALL styles :)
  7. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    It's a porous plastic that holds and releases the lubricant as needed. Best if you leave it there, but not the end of the world if you dug it out and replaced with a good grease.
  8. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

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    This type of needle bearing is used on a lot of later-model Yamaha motorcycles at the rear suspension.

    Probably because the bearing functions just fine with that number of rollers spaced apart via the needle cage.
    Less rollers spaced with a cage are lighter and have less friction.
    The plastic-like material is lighter than a steel cage.

    You can't pack it with a large amount of grease, but it'll hold grease that will keep the bearing alive just fine as long as you do what needs to be done periodically no matter what bearing is used:
    Take it apart for a cleaning and greasing, inspecting the bearing, collars, and seals.
    Also important to clean and grease the bolt that goes through the whole works.
  9. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

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    I've read about guys digging at it thinking it was "hardened grease".
  10. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    Me too. It's in this thread waaaay back. That's why I pointed out that it isn't the end of the world if it's done. Grease works fine too.
  11. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

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    So that means there's still a race holding the needles even if the plastic is removed?
    Never removed mine.
  12. rjnutt

    rjnutt Desert tortoise

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    No, the plastic/silicon holds the needle bearings....do not remove it.
  13. DaymienRules

    DaymienRules Traffic target

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    All of that plastic stuff in the linkage bearings came out on day 1. I just assumed it was a showroom/assembly product only, as I could see no way to either fully clean the bearings or fully pack them with out those little sticks coming out.
  14. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

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    I thought about it for a while............ and since I'm sure I know more than the engineers of some of the most reliable equipment on the planet......... I dug the stuff out! :rofl:1drink I offer the 2008 rubber damped chain skipping rear sprocket as proof that no one is perfect! :deal
    I can tell you this, the "filler" doesn't hold the needles apart at all. When I greased the race, and stacked the needles back in, it was completely full. The needles were tight together, as I would have expected.
    Now the bearings that were in the "Link" didn't have the stuff in them. They came apart and went back together as usual. Swing arm bearings were in a cage.
    Everything was really in pretty good shape, and could have probably gone another season, but since it was apart, and the snow's a foot deep I did them all. I don't do a whole bunch of deep water crossings, and the only thing that showed any problem was the bolt through the bearing in the middle of the swing arm. It had rusted a little, and had to be tapped out with a punch and hammer. Just light tapping was all.
    It's all back together now, so I just stopped for a cup of coffee, and printed torque spec page from the manual. Back to work. :freaky
  15. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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    Is this maybe a good time to ask who sells a good set of bearings for the rear linkage, shock bearing and swingarm bearings that may be better than Yam. OEM? I've heard some bad things about ALL BALLS/MOOSE RACING/MSR/Chinese garbage bearings over in thumper talk, any other Brands? I have a need to redo all of them before my trip this summer.:ear

    ps. What's recommended to clean the old bearings prior to regreasing if they are not replaced?
    I later found this link that explains quit a bit about that "plastic stuff" http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm
  16. viper770

    viper770 Been here awhile

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    well i have more bad news for you kansasbob we are suposed to get another 8 inches of snow tomorow but i got my klr650 back with the new progressive shock the bike does so much better now so im playing in the snow alittle bit with the klr but i think its going to be a few days befor i get my wr250r back out :(
  17. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    The simplest way to get the best quality bearings is to order Yamaha OEM stuff. It is possible to find a good bearing house that can help you figure out equivalents--takes a lot of time though can save you $, but going 3rd party packaged route is gonna get you generally chinese stuff of unknown quality.
  18. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    You're likely right about the Assembly part, and they are much harder to clean without damaging the stuff.

    All you have to do is look at your steering stem bearings to know that everyone at Yamaha must be deathly allergic to grease. :lol3
    Using the plastic stuff(there's a name for it but I can't remember what it is) likely saves many lives at Yamaha.

    It also takes a step and possible failure mode out of the manufacturing process which saves then some money. Not that they care about that.

    Good news is, They will never forget to grease those bearings, and everything I've read about the stuff is that it works really well.

    FWIW, I left the stuff in and still crammed as much grease as possible in there.
  19. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    +1 except I waited until the first swingarm service

    <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> One of the things the link above states that this is for reduced maintenance. I believe that this was a measure of insurance against the owners that will never do swingarm maintenance on the bike. I could not see a way to get any measurable amount of grease in there with the removal of the plastic stuff. I picked that stuff out with the bearings and cleaned everything up. Next I put a big glob of grease in the race and pushed the needles into it until they were all in place like you would a normal bearing. This should be much easier to clean out later.

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  20. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

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    Quote: What's recommended to clean the old bearings prior to regreasing if they are not replaced?
    I later found this link that explains quit a bit about that "plastic stuff" http://www.thumperfaq.com/swingarm.htm

    WOW! That is exactly the information I wanted.
    Permanent Lubricant..... OK If you say so. :huh
    I'm comfortable with my decision to go old school, and pack her tight with water proof grease.

    I'm back together, and torqued now. 47 rear, new seal guard, (third one from new) and a new chain is on. New Gel battery, a little fuel, and actually started :clap