Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Anybody with the bigger IMS tank run Tank Panniers? Looking to see if there are any clever ways to mount them without being in the way too much. It's unclear to me if there is an attachment point for that tank.
Which tank? The IMS 3 gallon doesn't change the geometry other than it gets an inch or two taller. The same plastics the bike comes with fit for instance.
I did only the flapper mod and set CO at +2. The bike is noticeably snappier. I liked that so much I'm considering a pipe and programmer.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
Yeah, I meant the 4.75gal one. It looks "smoother" - not sure if that's a problem adding tank panniers to that tank or not. Tired of hauling a Rotopax with my 3.1 gallon tank on longer rides.
I've used my Aerostch panniers with my 3 gal tank no problemo.
I put the straps forward and aft of the tank filler cap and use the bungies where they'll best work.
Gotta pick here somewhere...
I have done this for easy rides. Pushes knees out when sitting, but doesn't tend to bother me standing up:
I wouldn't use this on technical trails/single track.
...you couls also use a Giant Loop Buckin' Roll
That looks sweet!
I guess one could also use the Wolfman Rolie as a tank pannier.
...one thing about the Buckin' Roll, there's not a great amount of room in the side pockets. Probably squeeze an MSR bottle in there. They're kinda hard to get gain access due to the hefty design and small space.
Not near the space and access you'll have with some Aeostich panniers.
He was probably looking to connect to a switched line. The brown line runs to your #55(in fuse panel) 10amp fused power line. It also connects to the starter relay,license plate light,front and rear brake switches, horn. How much power does your heated grip pull?
IMHO heated items should go thru a relay and switch of their own and not pull load off of any primary circuits for safety. At the very least take the power port off the same line as the heated grips which should have their own 5amp line.
ps. some useful info on the Hot grips faq pg.http://www.hotgrips.com/faq.php#14
I've run my heated grips off of the headlight circuit (a 15A fuse) for years, never had an issue with my lights or grips. Same way BigDog does his.
Thanks. I rewired it today with a fused wire to the battery. I was going to use a relay but didnt have one. Still upsets me that the dealer would cut into my factory wiring. I guess thats why I dont take my bike to the dealer unless some one else is paying the bill.
What ever works, it's just a little safer on a lighter loaded circuit as long as the wiring is the same guage.
I ran mine on an old honda on the running light circuit.
They don't pull much usually
First of all, great thread, I'm learning a lot. I've tried searching for this issue but I haven't been able to find the answer, so here goes...
I bought my '08 WR250R used at 5,000 miles with the EXUP valve removed, airbox mod done and the complete FMF system (header, tailpipe and power programmer). The check engine light was on (continuously) but this didn't worry me since that's what happens when you do those engine mods.
However, last I rode the light started flashing at a rate of roughly one second per flash. Then it went off entirely. Then it came back on again and went back to flashing.
It happens in all kinds of situations, on-road and off, at all rev ranges, speeds and throttle levels. I don't know if the fuel pump was replaced but it works fine after nearly 5 years and 5,000 miles (I try not to run it low on gas). Everything else seems to work as it should. The computer throws no error codes, the engine gives plenty of power and the bike is a blast. I've changed the chain recently and after parsing all the competing scholarly sources on setting the slack, I think I have it set OK. Last oil change was 600 miles ago and I clean/swap the air filter every 3-400 miles (more if dirty/dusty). What does a flashing check engine light mean? Should I worry?
Thanks for any wisdom you might offer!
oh thats a easy fix just find some klx or a drz400 and sacrifice it to the WR god and all will be forgiven and check engine light should go away
Get the code checked?
No error code...hmmmm? Anyway I hope this is of some help.
Here's a fault code list:
If it's an error code 17/18 there are a couple of easy fixes. One for around $10 (home made) and one from Graves:
I went with the rather expensive Graves fix.
I am in the process of installing Hot Grips heated grips on my bike. I am wiring it to a relay triggered by the license plate light. The resistance of each grip is about 10.5Ohm. They are wired in parallel which means they will nominally each pull about 1.15A, 2.3A total. That is not a huge amount, but enough that I would not want to tied in to an existing circuit.