Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. shep546

    shep546 Been here awhile

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    Can I plug the AIS line going to my airbox and just leave the line there? I got a broken wrist and don't feel like taking off my tank.
  2. oldtrucks

    oldtrucks Been here awhile

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    Contact Travis at Go Race. He's go an excellent reputation and knows the WR suspension, he'll know exactly what can be done

    http://go-race.com/wordpress/?page_id=291
  3. indypup

    indypup ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

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    I'm saying when I kill it while riding. Not with the kill switch. I hardly ever use that anyway. ;) I have to cycle the startup process and let it finish like you mentioned and it starts right up. If I just try to start it without doing that I have to crank on it for a long time and crack the throttle to get it started. :( Oh and I never hear the fuel pump kick in like at startup...
  4. mpatch

    mpatch Long timer

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    I have noticed the same thing.
  5. GSBS

    GSBS FunHog

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    I've always assumed the reason you only hear the fuel pump on startup to be that after running awhile the system is already pressurized. Dunno for sure though. BTW, I always just wait til the dash lights go out (2-3 seconds) before restarting after a stall. No big deal for me.
  6. sturgeon

    sturgeon Been here awhile

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    I think I see your problem. That red strap is mounted inside-out.
  7. MeefZah

    MeefZah Curmudgeonly

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    That's my understanding / thoughts as well.
  8. Sewerat

    Sewerat Cert. bike whore

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    Ok so under valve inspection I find the intakes to be at the minimum and the exhaust to be too tight. Under the caps the shims are 195/190 in. 185/185 exhaust. So if I'm understanding correctly if I go smaller numbers each number will give me .005 mm more slack? I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec.

    Now onto my next project. Retrofitting a ktm tail light onto the rear. :D
  9. duanew1

    duanew1 In my Pajama pants

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    I guess I was not clear. I was talking about when I stall the bike on a hard uphill off road. I always hear the pump running after I stall it and I have to wait until it finishes to restart the bike or it is difficult to start. I have been thinking lately that my pump is not as strong sounding as it should be, but it has never let me down.
  10. cjbiker

    cjbiker Nobody's Robot

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    I believe the valve shims come in 0.05mm increments, or 0.002" for us Americans :evil.

    You can swap around your existing shims to get as many valves in spec as possible. I've had good success taking my unwanted shims to my local Hondawazukiha dealer and swapping them for the sizes I need.
  11. indypup

    indypup ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

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    Hmm, I have had the problem where the fuel pump overheats a couple of times. I just let if cool down and it starts right up.
    I'm going to tweak the fuel programmer and see if that makes any difference too. My tailpipe is kind of black sooty looking and it might be running too rich. The spark plug was black too.
  12. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

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    >"I found a set of shims online so I will have the entire set in stock but looks like if I just swap the exhaust ones to the intake and then put new ones on exhaust it should get me back into spec. "

    Get a metric micrometer and measure the shims exactly. Harbor Freight has a vernier mike (6" for $9.99), works fine.

    The Yamaha shims that came out were pretty close to the marked sizes.
    The replacement Hotcams shims I got varied a whole lot. You need to measure so you can get the closest size for the valve.
  13. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    Just a reflection on my 2008 WRR. I traded for this bike & have had it about 4 years. It came with FMF full exhaust, programmer & motor mods already done. I added Safari tank & a few sets of tires. Now approaching 14,000 miles, original fuel pump. 1 set of sprockets, 14/47 & a chain. Oil changes & filter & ride it. I also have an old 1995 Honda XRL 650 I ride often. Have been thinking of trading it away for a Husky as I have owned two TE's & they were great bikes, BUT. I keep coming back to the fact the Yamaha with very little attention just keeps on keepin on. Runs as well as the day I bought it & if I go out & do a 200 or 300 mile day & get tired & need to get home this bike jumps on the pavement & smoothly gets me home. In my opinion no one so far not even Honda has produced a bike to match it. No valve adjustments as yet, original spark plug & I am heading to the DV for Noobs Ride next weekend for a three day ride with no bike concerns. I have played with the stock suspension & have it about as good as it's going to be in stock form. Just my 2 cents on a bike I feel has set the standard on small bore dual sports.
  14. Sewerat

    Sewerat Cert. bike whore

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    Ya one of my shims had no numbers on it. Like they had worn off or something? But I did measure them all to figure out the thickness was the numbers on them. So my guess is to make them set at the closest to max slack and button it back up again for another year.
  15. Reeksy

    Reeksy high state of hiatus

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    Small world the internet eh? :D

    Working out near the coast today - so obligatory 10km section of forestry ride into work complete with suspension tuning whoops on the way. Guess i'll take the same route back :clap
  16. EvilClown

    EvilClown Reality show stunt double Super Moderator

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    You're absolutely right.:D
  17. manfromthestix

    manfromthestix Lost in Space

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    Hey Galen, we were just up in the Churchville area a couple weekends ago. We don't like driving on the interstate so usually take backroads, and went to the Dayton Farmer's Market for lunch and shopping. On the way home we decided to see what the Natural Chimneys are all about since I'm a geologist and enjoy looking at rox:

    [​IMG]

    After we left there we decided to go exploring and got totally ferking lost in the mountains west of C-ville, found some excellent trout streams, and finally popped back out on Highway 250 about ten miles west of Churchville and made it to the gas station with about half a gallon to spare in our Toyota Corolla. It was fun exploring those back roads but next time I want to be on a bike - the little car did fine, but it's brand new so my wife was grimacing about all the mud and scraping noises :lol3.

    I bought a 2010 WR250R ten days ago and because of work and weather have gotten to ride it a whopping 20 miles since purchasing it. Here are a few shots of that short but excellent first ride:

    House Mountain seen from North Mountain (Turnpike Road)

    [​IMG]

    View toward our house:

    [​IMG]

    It took some effort but I found some mud and snow:

    [​IMG]

    Then, the weather happened again. This was today (Monday), about ten inches on the ground but melting fast.

    [​IMG]

    Same location as the first bike picture above but a tad more snow...

    [​IMG]

    Turkeys were out and foraging, we saw a large flock but couldn't get a picture. They're big!

    [​IMG]

    I'm ready for some drier weather so I can get the bike out, put the lowering link on (I'm 6" shorter than the PO), and go for a long ride! I'm loving it so far...

    Doug
  18. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    I'm right in the middle of this, and can't figure out one thing. I've got everything setup, I've run out the adjuster nut 25 +2 clicks, and I've loosened the lock nut below that up to a point 2-3 threads below the adjuster.

    [​IMG]

    What I can't figure out is how to get the lower shock mount block up to the lock nut. If you just grab the block and turn it, the piston shaft and spring etc just turn with it. There is a 'nut' (red arrow below) right up against the plate at the bottom of the spring, if I put a wrench on that and turn the lower block it turns, but its very hard and I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here.

    SO - do I hold tight at the red arrow here, and turn shock block (yellow) clockwise to shorten the the assembly?

    [​IMG]

    Hope this makes sense.

    Dave
  19. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

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    I see lock tite........... that's most likely your problem. Mine just turned up with no issues. Clean the blue stuff off, put a little wd-40 on it and see if it will turn without turning the shaft, and yes you can back it all up holding the nut on the bottom of the shock.

    I also found out you can bottom the threads out and make the bike as low as it will go, and the adjuster will still adjust just fine. I only have mine out 3 clicks for max rebound damping.......... the best setting on a stock shock.
  20. UtahFox

    UtahFox Been here awhile

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    But I am on the right track? I've done the WD-40, but didn't know how to get that Loctite off, and suggestions there?

    Thanks Bob.