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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Dr. Schols You be gellin
Thats a pitty... Would have been a great bike...
I've managed to get my forks apart, drained, etc. Now I'm looking at the damper rod and base valve, scratching my head with oily fingers. The service manual says something about a damper rod holder and now that I've almost completely stripped out the bottom base valve piece by attempting to just unscrew it from the bottom I'm thinking this tool must be key.
So the less winded form of my question is- How do I remove the base valve and damper rod assembly and is this damper rod holder tool absolutely necessary or can it be improvised?
You can make the tool out of a piece of PVC or copper pipe. Cut 4 slots at 90 degrees to fit over the blades on the damper rod. I could post a photo of the one I made (if I can find it) if you'd like.
What are you attempting to do that you need this tool for? I replaced my seals without it?
Or better yet, if you know the dimensions that'd be greatly appreciated.
I got the seals part down i think, its the replacing the lower fork leg that makes things get a little more involved. This crash is getting $$$ and Im look to avoid any specialty tool fees.
This looks a little different than I remember, but I'm sure it's for the WRR. Did a revalve a couple years ago and haven't had the forks apart since.
1 inch (inside diameter) PVC pipe. The 4 pins are 1/2" long and about 5/16" wide.
If you don't have a 14mm hex to fit inside the base valve, you could use a grade 8 bolt with 14mm or 9/16" head. Put a double locknut on the bolt, then place the bolt head in the base valve and put your wrench on the locknut. Best to use a 14mm hex wrench though.
The factory puts loctite on the base valve so it may be hard to break loose.
I have in the past used ratchet straps to fully compress the fork then hit the bottom bolt with an impact gun. Make sure it's in reverse first. All you need to do is hold the inside from turning while you undo the bolt.
Picked up my WRR tonight and I now see what all the fuss is about. The engine is silky smooth. 140 miles of highway in rain that ranged from annoying mist to full on downpour and I was still smiling.
So the less winded form of my question is- How do I remove the base valve and damper rod assembly and is this damper rod holder tool absolutely necessary or can it be improvised?[/QUOTE]
OMG what have you done:eek1:eek1
That is the result of months without a proper ride, waiting for parts and loosing patience- This "Get the damn thing back together and go ride" attitude is taking a toll on the poor WRR.
Thanks Jim, even if I have to make a trip to the hardware store, I'm sure some PVC & a little elbow grease is cheaper than the Yamaha tool. A 14mm hex head was what I was looking for last night but I settled for the tool that fit provided in the factory tool kit.
I might try this if I can't find any PVC, thanks.
As a new guy here, can someone tell me how to make use of this gargantuan thread? It's obviously too big to read from the start! Can other threads be started that are wr250r specific, like about suspension or something?
Try the WR250R Forum (google it). There's some decent info over there broken into specifics. Lots of opinions though..........
Thanks. I signed up over there about 20 minutes ago, under the same name. I just bought my new 2012 Tuesday in Latrobe, PA. Been about 15 years since I've been on a dirt bike, four years since I sold my Sportster. Good times ahead.
It takes time, but it is worth reading.
Easier for me since I started lusting for a WRR when it was announced in 2008, so I started reading this thread way back then. The stars didn't align for me until last Summer, when I found a used one at the same time as I had just sold a bike, so had 2/3 of the cash in hand. Telling Wifey I want to spend $1,500 is easier than $5k!
The sticky has some info and is easier to get through: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=538181
I created my own WR250R database using segments of this (gigantic) thread and others.
Cut & paste the information you want and copy photos because links to photos may be broken or photos removed.
Put everything in categories (cut-&-paste the categories from a website that sells motorcycle stuff).
And start with this thread as others have said --> LINK
I think this thread now qualifies as "Big Data"
Lots of interesting stuff through the years. JMO, with 5 years and 20K on my WR, the two most important things I have done is set the suspension properly and get some decent handlebars. The first because the rear in particular needs adjustment from factory settings, and the second because I'm 6'2'' and the stock handlebars make me feel like I'm riding a sportbike with clip-ons.
What specific handlebars did you go with? Did you also do risers?
Actually, this is a good question for "everyone". If you replaced the OEM handlebars, what did you go with and why? Did you add risers?
My new-to-me WR250R.
This is/was Rick Ramsey's WRR with all the mods, wrenching, tuning, set-up plus a lot more. So much more that I am still doing a catalog of all the parts Rick included
Thanks to Ramz for a great bike. Thanks (as well) to Bill Blue for trailering it down to Wichita.
Stumbling at high speed under load.
I just replaced an older FMF power programmer that had bit the dust
after many miles of dirt and water. This new PP is bumming me out big
When I'm out on the highway doing 65 and pulling out to pass it
completely bogs out. It doesn't die completely but you go from 65 to zero
in a big hurry.
It is fvcking dangerous.
FMF is about to get their azzes sued off if they don't step up and address this.