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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
It looks home made. Likely lexan cut to shape.
Woohoo! I have a mod named after me! Too bad it involves a dollar-store spatula
I haven't crash tested my guard yet, so no guarantees, but it has picked up some scratches from the lever flexing inward while shifting.
The stock lever is extremely malleable, which I see as a good thing. I bought a bent lever cheap from another inmate here to keep as a spare. I could hardly believe how easy it was to bend back into shape. At least that should protect the shift shaft and the internals in case of a crash.
I may try to "improve" on your design when I get a round tuit by using jb weld or some sort of epoxy rather than rtv silicone...any thoughts ?
[warning: way too wordy. the tl;dr summary: replaced spark plug, added speedoDRD,
bike had major high rpm stutter about 10 miles later, but after stopping and turning back
seemed to run fine...any ideas???]
I've just about hit 10,000 miles on the WRR so thought I 'd do some service, and I'd recently
bought a speedoDRD because the 20% +/-high reading of the speedo/odometer were becoming
Drained and removed the tank--used ramz's "levitating fuel tank" method to hold it up while
removing the electrical and fuel connectors--
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7892085@N05/9168174929/" title="Untitled by hwdinc, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/9168174929_bc516e52cb_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a>
removed the coil/cap, and extracted the original spark plug. Yuck!
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7892085@N05/9168173839/" title="Untitled by hwdinc, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7298/9168173839_98df12e87c_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Untitled"></a>
All kinds of corrosion on the hex sided portion and the cap was full of red dust, rusty powder
of some sort. Cleaned the cap with contact cleaner, dried it out carefully, used a small hose
on the end of my shop vac to vacuum out the recessed hole in the cylinder head.
Gapped the new plug, torqued it, and put some dielectric grease in the cap before pushing it
down onto the plug.
The manual also says to "apply silicone hydrate to the sealing point of the ignition coil, and
install the ignition coil..." Have no idea what silicone hydrate is, couldn't find it via google either,
so I didn't do what ever it is you're supposed to do and just made sure the coil was pressed firmly
into the cylinder head surface.
Put everything back together, installed the speedoDRD and went for a little ride this morning...and
now for the reason for the "little freakout."
About 10 miles into the ride I come to a nice uphill sort of expressway section that goes from 35mph
to 55 mph, so I whacked the throttle and as it climbed into high rpms...splut roar splut roar roar splut...
kind of like how it feels when you're just about out of gas and the fuel pump isn't getting enough fuel.
I backed off the throttle and everything seemed fine. Rolled on hard again and same freaky hesitation
again. I've got about 3.6 gallons of gas in the 3.7 g capacity tank. Damn. Then the high temp warning
light came on! I slowed down, the light went off, and for the next few miles my mind was racing with
the possible causes, debating whether this was a real problem or not, finally decided to pull over and
check a few things.
I pulled the fuel tank cap and it didn't seem to be in any pressure (thinking it could be a venting issue),
even blew into the vent hose, seemed OK. Decided to head back rather finish the rest of the ride I'd
planned.:huh First time the WRR had given my ANY reason not to just ride it.
On the way back I tried the whack the throttle game again, but couldn't get it to hesitate! I even took
the long way back via I-680 and it pulled right up to a GPS (and now speedo-corrected!!!) 70 mph with
no problems. I did take my earplugs out for the ride back because I thought I was hearing some odd
sounds, there does seem to be some different kind of fluttery noise as I whack the throttle, but that
could be part of the airbox flapper--everything there is still stock.
So, I'm thinking it could be
1. Some weird artifact of the speedoDRD.
nah, not very likely. Occam's razon and all that...
2. Something wrong with the cap/coil; maybe too overzealous with the dielectric grease, or cleaning,
or maybe a bad plug.
possible, I guess
3. Fuel pump issues, either an impending failure or simply the pump hadn't completely filled yet, or I
didn't get the vacuum line back correctly, or ???
I'm leaning towards this, but I'm still freaked out a bit by the fact that it went away. It is hot,
probably about 90°F when I was riding and getting hotter by the minute so I wouldn't have expected a
fuel pump failure to go away in those conditions.
I do remember hearing an odd "squeal" from the pump when I first turned the key on after putting
everything back together...
Dang, I do get wordy, but if anyone has experienced and solved something like this I'd appreciate
hearing from you.
The instructions for store-bought case savers for other bikes say to use RTV. It sticks well, is removable, and should provide some cushioning between the case and the saver. What's there to improve
Vacuum hose have any kinks?
My guess is you got some anti seize or dielectric grease on the electrode of the spark plug. Once it burned off, it stopped causing an issue. Ran in to similar situations occasionally on my cars back when I still cared enough about 4 wheeled vehicles to wrench on them myself.
Sounds similar to the FMF power programmer issue I was having a
while back. If you have one make sure your fifth setting is at 6 or
Thanks, but no programmer. The power train is completely stock, other than gearing and tires.
Hmm. Guess it's possible, but I didn't apply the grease to the plug but the cap/coil after the plug was installed. I do think I may have put too much in there, and without knowing a whole lot about how electrons travel from the coil through the clip/grease into the electrode at high rpms, I could have caused this with my ham fisted grease application. Maybe.
Gonna look into that later tonight, feel like I'm living in Phoenix Ph'g Arizona today...still 102°F here :eek1
Joined the club last week. Started farkling, still a lot left to do!
Make sure you put a shorter bolt in the right rear of the skidplate.
The length of the 'stock' bolt will contact the cases.
Nice photos with the D600. That second one almost has a tilt-shift quality to it.
Can anybody tell me the length of the stock sidestand? Now that I've got all of the lowering gear removed from my 2008 I need to put a chunk of 2x4 under the sidestand foot to keep the bike from listing hard to port. I think the previous owner must have cut a couple of inches out of it.
If anybody is looking for a shorter sidestand and has a stocker to swap I'd be happy to do so. If not I'll have a piece welded back in or I saw a new OEM sidestand for $38 online.
Perhpas the fuel line got partially compressed or kinked on the reinstall causing not enough fuel delivery for full throttle and possibly a lean enough condition at speed to overheat...? The line then vibrated free into an open space and full flow from pump was restored. I have the 3.1 on mine. I once spun it around to set on the sub-frame rails like I do for my TDM fuel tank when servicing and it kinked the semi rigid fuel line pretty easily.
I just screwed a plywood disc to my kickstand, now it leans properly and doesn't sink in mud or sand. My friend used a small hockey puck on his XT 350.
Did you find this bolt locally or did you order it? I am having a hard time finding one close to me
13-3/4" from center line of mounting bolt to tip of foot.
So it looks like I'm missing roughly 3" as mine is just a hair over 10 3/4". No wonder it still leans a lot with a chunk of 2x4 under the foot. Wish I had thought of that when I was ordering parts last, but at least it won't stop me from riding today.
Thanks for the intel!
I just looked, that bolt is a good distance from the case. I guess if it worries you, just cut the bolt down a few mm.