Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. MiamiMotorcyclist

    MiamiMotorcyclist used to be -MiamiUly

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    That was our version of a snowball fight when I was younger.

    Sometimes friends would bring ATCs out to the camp (we rode mx bikes) and after a lot of roosting each other we would end up just stacking mud on the rear fenders, riding towards each other and tossing hunks of mud as we passed. If you could knock someone off their ATC with the hunk of mud, you got bonus points.
    Mud jousting I guess.

    Good times.
  2. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    Where is Krabill? He's an hour late! :ddog

    15 more minutes....and I leave without him. :deal

    Maybe he looked at radar and chickened out :dunno

    HF
  3. AKoffroader

    AKoffroader Adventurer

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    Anyone have a comment on the FMF Q4 versus the Yamaha GYTR slip on exhaust pipe?

    On the GYTR it looks like you use the stock head pipe with the EXUP valve still hooked up. Is the FMF Power Bomb a better way to go over the stock head pipe with EXUP? Any draw backs to either one?

    Thank you,

    Greg
  4. vwsandman

    vwsandman Been here awhile

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    There is no slip on made GYTR or otherwise that use the EXUP, this is part of the OEM muffler assembly and is removed with it when a slip on is installed. You have a few choices about what to do with the EXUP servo motor and cables:

    1) You can remove the cables from the Servo (and the EXUP of course as it is going with the old muffler)
    2) You can remove the cables and the Servo, but to do this you will either need to build a circuit to trick the computer that the Servo is still in place or buy the plug in servo substitute from Steveakus on his new web site here:
    http://www.servosub.com/
    You get rid of all the weight and complexity by removing the whole thing. On this bike it is more for noise and emissions than anything, hence the item being in the muffler and not the headpipe like other Yamaha's (R1 and FZ1)

    FWIW, I have the GYTR (look a few posts back for my review) and think it is a great pipe, I also like the fact you can re-use the heat shield which will keep it from getting scratched up in case you tip over...

    Hope that clears this up for you.
  5. AKoffroader

    AKoffroader Adventurer

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    Have you compared the sound of the GYTR to the Q4? I like the stock look of the Yamaha GYTR pipe and it's only about $30.00 more on Ebay.

    Could you tell any "real" performance difference from the stock pipe? I wonder if a programmer would help the GYTR pipe or just keep the stock one....

    Thank you,

    Greg
  6. vwsandman

    vwsandman Been here awhile

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    I have no direct comparison for the FMF to the GYTR....I posted up sound sound measurments to give some idea of the difference...I am thinking about getting a DB Dawg if it is over the 94db for DS rides...

    A fuel tuner is a wise investment for this bike....even more so when you un-cork it.
  7. emerson.biguns

    emerson.biguns All idiot, no savant

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    Well, here's the Rotopax rack I've been working on. I was being held hostage by American Airlines all day yesterday, so Mrs. Biguns was nice enough to go pick it up for me. When I finally made it home last night at about 11P I find that they bent one of the mounts wrong. :bluduh

    And to top things off... the FMF pipe, header, and programmer that I ordered last week didn't come either. :cry

    So, I can't show what it looks like with the Rotopax tank mounted. But, overall it looks pretty good. Nice and sturdy, and I think it will work well. I'm going to try to get them to rush the next the corrections.


    [​IMG]
  8. mick

    mick speedtrippy

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    Daaaamn!!!!
    That is the slickest rack I can remember seeing. I like the flat design. do you realize that makes all other racks look very outdated?
  9. AKoffroader

    AKoffroader Adventurer

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    Very nice John! I'm also enjoying the tail rack (best one going in my opinion) I bought from you. Another great design!

    Take care,

    Alaska Greg
  10. Iceveign

    Iceveign Been here awhile

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    looks good, that top left edge isn't gonna bite ya in the leg or but is it? Maybe not an issue with bags on it, but it looks kinda close.
  11. emerson.biguns

    emerson.biguns All idiot, no savant

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    Thanks. I think I'm probably going to leave it raw aluminum. It will be more utilitarian than anything.


    Greg,

    Thanks. Rub the whole thing down lightly with 000 steel wool to knock the gloss shine off of it. That way it looks good even after riding in the dirt and straps wear the gloss over-coat down to a matte finish in just a few places.



    With the Rotopax in place, it is actually down behind the can and the back of your thigh is safe. The Rotopax will sit just about in the same place as Dirtbagz do on that side. They look like they sit just under your left butt-cheek.
  12. Pax

    Pax shazam.

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    John,

    Can you run this with the Dirt Bagz over it?

    If so, will you take a pic with that in place?

    Are you gonna sell these?

    -Pax

  13. CopaMundial

    CopaMundial Wow, that broke easy

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    Yes, that's sort of the root of his idea... here's a pic he posted of an earlier mock-up when he was laying out the rack (prior to actual fabrication but gives you the picture you're looking for).
    This pic is with a 2-gallon Rotopax can.

    [​IMG]


    That wouldn't happen to be the same Mrs. Biguns in your avitar would it?
    :evil
  14. SteveRed

    SteveRed Adventure Moto

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    Mmmm.. Very nice. Only one problem. Aluminum doesn't flex very well. It tends to crack and fatigue when flexing so you might find that it will shear at the mounting points.
  15. emerson.biguns

    emerson.biguns All idiot, no savant

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    No, Mrs. Biguns is actually Mrs. Mediumsizeduns.... :cry



    I'm hoping that most movement will be in the vertical plane, parallel to the plane of the material. The bends near the upper mount will be the most susceptible to fatigue I think. Now that you tweeked my brain, I think I'll go with a larger radius on the bends and may go for a gusset on the back to prevent the repetitive flexing.



    .
  16. montesa_vr

    montesa_vr Legend in his own mind

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    No word yet from HighFive and Krabill. When last we left our heroes HighFive was accusing Krabill of chickening out. Maybe they were wiped out in a tornado.
  17. CaptTurbo

    CaptTurbo Long timer

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    I'd like some advice from some of the shorter WRR pilots. I have about a 30" inseam and might be closing in on a deal (paying way too much) for a new '09. Part of the deal will include one of the two lowering link choices. Should I get the 1" or the 1.75" link? Sitting on the bike at the dealership I could only touch with my toes and I was wearing my riding boots. I'm not sure but the bike might have had the suspension cranked all the way up? Anyway I just figured this would be where to ask for advice before I have to decide on the link size.

    Another thing I ran into was when I asked for a steel 46 tooth primary sprocket to be included they said that they could only get that size in aluminum. They said I'd have to go with a 47 if I want steel. Is this what you have found?

    For those that have installed their own lowering link, Was it easy to do or was it fairly involved? The best deal I was able to get worked out from this dealer is $6715.00 OTD including the options of 1)Corbin seat, 2)47 toth primary sprocket and chain, 3) my choice of lowerinng link sizes.

    They don't want to install any of the options so that is why I was asking about the difficulty level of installing the link.

    Thanks for any helpful advice.
  18. dirtytrixx400

    dirtytrixx400 Adventurer

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    i was wondering about them too.
  19. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Got Emerson's rear rack yesterday, after ordering it on Thursday. Arizona to Maryland in TWO DAYS! :clap Can't beat that kind of service with a stick...

    Anyways, I installed it this afternoon, along with a few other bits (TT skid plate, GYTR disk guards and hand guards)
    [​IMG]

    Great, simple, easy to read/understand instructions, and the rack was pretty nice too.

    [​IMG]

    Installed
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The rack mounts to the 4 bolts on the subframe that hold on the rear taillight assembly, it feels really solid.

    Everything all buttoned up
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now I just need some time to get her dirty... 1100 miles and climbing!
  20. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    The WR comes stock in the raised position. Lower the ride height adjuster and the forks and try that. That's all I needed to make it easier to touch the ground.

    There is a lowering tutorial on Thumper Talk.

    Your paying way too much for the machine. I can get you one up here for $5100 OTD.

    http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6122558&postcount=1