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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Hmmmm, Me thinks that exhaust will be a challenge for deep mud pits
So far thankfully none of the 3 crf's we have experienced any real head shake problem, I think many on a new bike grip to tightly at high speeds, the looser you are on the grips that goes away in my experience at least, not saying that is your brother's issue but the crf is a first bike for many and gripping to tightly at high speeds will definitely cause that.
My buddy brad weighs 150#'s he pretty much can push the bike as fast as it will go at his weight and he rides the highway to work most days on his and is at 77-80mph the whole way, he actually mentioned the shake when he first got the bike until I told him to loosen his grip and he said that is exactly what was doing it, never had a shake or shimmy since.
I weigh 185 and I feel like I can jump the hell out of the bike, never bottomed out ever. I actually bought my wr a year before the crf so I was used to a pretty decent suspension but I actually enjoy the suspension of the crf nice and soft and can really pre load it before I hit a decent jump and she fly's and land like its on pillows!!
not when she will skim right over the top of them
They're both black. Just stick a Yamaha decal over the Ducatti when it's in the garage and keep the Honda. "What new bike, honey?"
Or you can sell the Yamaha and store the Honda in my garage
wish it was that easy, oh absolutely if you were closer that's just what I would do thanks for the storage offer lol. I dont know I just may keep em there both a blast and pretty inexpensive to maintain.
Yea I would keep them ,just my opinion of course. There so fun to wring them wot all the time from light to light,corner to corner,trail to trail ya know. That Ducati wouldn't see full throttle much I bet,or,maybe It would?. Idk, I'm just not feeling that ugly exhaust,reminds of the ktm 690 big exhausts I hate,Great bikes though. I'd keep your current lineup for atleast another year or so,then maybe go for the Ducati,but would try to keep the Honda for those days you wanna explore/offload ya know.
All I know is im having a blast on my wrx.love my bike
yeah I may just keep em, I do absolutely love my wr! Your wrx is looking good man, how do like it compared to your former bikes? wait till you do exhaust, ais delete, programmer and airbox mods, I swear it is a totally different bike after that!
I voted MT-21 on mine (T-63 rear).
I have the MT21 on front and T63 on back, and I really like that combo all around. FWIW.
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I have both the x and r wheels, I do not want to be switching sprockets, etc. when switching wheels. What are people running to make the switch as painless as possible? I'm 13/47 with the r wheelset right now, it's good off road, but the engine screams past about 55 MPH . I was thinking about 13/45 on both, has anybody run this combo? The terrain here is completely varied, so I do run into steep stuff off road consistently.
I actually just happened to have a 45t shipping to me next week, i think this will be perfect for this bike, but I will give you an update later in the week
Noob question here: first time doing a coolant change, what's the correct process?
Never mind. Found the PDF manual: http://www.pdf-manual.com/user-guide-instruction-owner-manual-yamaha-wr250r-2010-18167.html
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Has anyone had an issue where the clutch does not engage all the way? I went out to start my bike for the first time in a few weeks (I changed the oil/filter during the downtime) and noticed that with the clutch in, the bike still does not roll in first gear...?? It surges forward slightly when I start the engine while it in first as well. Would the clutch cable need tightening or does anyone think there may be more expensive issues at hand here? I do not drive it all that hard so find it hard to believe the clutch is going out..
Thanks for all the help!
Adjust the cable. Should have 1/4 inch at least free play, or if more that that lessen the free play.
Assuming you have the clutch lever freeplay adjusted correctly, this is normal as the clutch develops some plate stiction after shutdown as the oil cools and gets thicker.
I leave my bike parked in gear (this avoids the infamous forward roll kickstand fold bike goes to sleep scenario) in a corner where I cannot easily access the shift lever. The normal drill to move bike out is to pull in clutch lever, pull bike to vertical from the righthand side, forcefully push forward on handlebars to break the stiction, then it rolls easily out of the garage.
Thanks for the replies guys! I've already measured the freeplay and adjusted it (~10-15mm freeplay per service manual).
I tried rolling it around and starting it and it still has a good bit of resistance with the clutch pulled in pushing it in 1st. Maybe I just need to go for a cruise tomorrow in the daylight and see if it frees up??
Edit...Just went out and started it, thinking the warmed up oil would help. Started in neutral, then tried shifting first and it immediately turns the engine off
I bled (bleeded?) my rear brake today and noticed these scuffs on the swingarm.
(yes my bike is dirty, bite me)
Looks like the rear brake master cylinder hit the swingarm on a particularly nasty jolt I had...and I think I know which one. I'm not too fussed about the cosmetic blemish but I'm wondering - is this normal? Or could my bike be perhaps lowered in some crazy obscure way (by the PO) that means the swingarm bumps the rear brake M/C at full shock compression? The impact is pretty close to the swingarm pivot so I don't think the swingarm is flexing.
About this "nasty jolt": Yesterday I hit the mother of all potholes - it was completely obscured by grass on the dirt road I was riding and I hit it doing 35-45mph. Usually I ride slower single-track and I try to avoid bumps like that but this one was almost perfectly masked by the grass surrounding it, so I didn't see it at all (and I was being a little dumb...). I guess I overrode my sight, though honestly I don't think I'd have seen this thing doing 5mph either. I was standing on the bike and moving fast enough that I didn't lose control of the bike - in fact, the WRR seemed to be perfectly composed through the whole thing. But it was still quite the jolt in comparison to all the other bumps! I stopped, briefly checked my forks, rear shock and wheels for damage (just in case) and then took a look at the pothole itself. It was perhaps 1.5 feet deep (or more) and a couple feet long, along the direction I was traveling (I'm only guessing). I wish I had taken a photo! Judging by the dust lines on the front inner fork tubes, I nearly bottomed or completely bottomed the forks. The dust line was maybe half an inch or so above the bottom of the tube.
The WR seemed to handle this huge hole like a champ, I just wonder about this swingarm nick!
If your kickstand was down, your bike will shut off if you shift into gear to avoid you riding off and crashing on your first left turn. If you are confused about the freeplay thing, play with it awhile. Stand on the right hand side of the bike, so you are looking at the clutch lever. loosen the locking ring (the big one) between the adjustment barrel and the clutch lever by turning it counter clockwise until it is right up against the barrel adjuster. Now turn the barrel adjustor (the knurled aluminum piece that the clutch cable housing goes into) counterclockwise 1/2 turn. This will effectively begin shortening the cable housing and begin disengaging the clutch sooner when you grab the lever. Sit on the bike and start it in neutral. Take it off the kickstand and shift into first. Play with the cable adjuster until it feels like you want it. Your clutch should be pretty bombproof. I doubt you've done any permanent damage.
or you can just buy the ducati and not get rid of anything and if she don't like it show here where the curb is when the going gets tough the women get going but the duc will always be there