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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
FWIW..stock bars appear to made of fudge and bend at the slightest little fall.
Did your failure just happen one time?
I'd be a little hesitant to grab a new pump after just one incident of the bike not starting. It sounds like you were low on gas, and riding in a hot environment in stop and go traffic. Remember fuel covering the pump keeps it cooler so maybe it just got too hot there?
FYI, I had an issue where I had just come off a long highway run 70+ miles at 65+ mph for an extended time frame. We came to a light and my bike suddenly died and wouldn't restart. I pushed it to the side and then it started a few mins later?
If I had an '08 with the original fuel pump I would preemptively change it.
The $250 is not worth getting stranded.
Thanks again for all your advices. I quickly pulled the trigger on an oem pump because i only use the bike for commuting once in a week but really need it to be reliable when i have to.
I will have a look at the contacts, but i never ride in the mud and very rarely under rain. The major weather issue here is the wind, so i don't expect to find much dirt on them.
I think yamaha dealer here sell very few wr250r/wr250x. But you're right I should try to write to yamaha france and see if they can do something for me! Problem is my VIN number shows a bunch of 0000 at the place for year of manufacturing (on the registration papers but also on the bike)
I was not SO low on gas (no fuel light warning yet). And anyway due to the small tank i usually add fuel with about 1L left, and want to be able to do that reliably. I have read that yamaha fixed something on the pump, hence the new part number.
I got the issue really near from home, so i didn't worry at all (at worse i could have pushed it home) but 1h earlyer i was pushing the bike hard on lost twisty "mountain" roads and really don't want to stay stucked there.
By the way now i remember that lately the bike was not always starting at first try. Turn the key, push start for 5sec, it tries but doesn't start. Release start button, try again and bike starts in 2sec.
Maybe it's going to get worse, and i have to face heavy traffic every time i leave/get back home. I know winter is coming, but still...
I should have the new pump for this WE. Even if not, i will empty the tank (and measure how much fuel i have) and check the connectors. I think the problem with the pump is "inside" the pump so i can't visually look for it.
An alternative: let the "old" pump mounted, and go ride for 1h in the traffic around home to check if it happens again.
I did exactly that and the replacement pump failed in a few thousand miles. Put the original pump back in and it is working fine.
Any suggestions on these? The stock blinkers are atrocious and the replacements I find on eBay are all 2-wire (no running lights, blinker only). I'd like to keep all the OEM functionality in a smaller, better looking form factor.
Im not sure there are many aftermarket 3 wire options, but a closed relay (one where switching opens the circuit, as opposed to the more typical switched closed) on each side should do the job with a two wire signal.
Alternatively, many (most?) motorcycles have three wires for the front signals. You might be able to find one you like from another brand.
Did you check these out
I've purchased a few things from this source and have been pleased with the vendor.
Hey, if you're into looks - Why not be the first on your block to have Quad front lights. Two LED units on EACH SIDE - one for TS and one for running. The running set would be even brighter than stock.
I'm looking to increase my range, 100 miles is fine when i'm on local trails, but for longer trips and commuting more fuel would be good.
I'm considering the Safari tank, but I'm also wondering if anyone has tried a Nomad Tank.
According to the owner tanks 3, 5 and 7 will fit the WRR.
Cost isn't an issue, I like the idea of being able to remove the extra fuel capacity for short rides and add it again for longer rides, but how practicable are the nomad tanks?
And would it annoy me taking up rack space on longer trips?
The solution I am using:
Rack (which comes predrilled to accept Rotopax tank mounts): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Wr25...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f284ef0c3&vxp=mtr
This combination allows carrying anywhere from zero to 1-3 extra gallons of fuel (or water or storage or combination thereof), AND not losing appreciable rack space. Conversion takes seconds. Assuming you can swing your leg over the lot .
If cost isn't an issue, just get the Safari. You'll not notice the extra weight (if any) when riding trails, it adds protection to the radiator, and 3.7 gals is the sweet spot as far I'm concerned. And you'll still have rear luggage space.
I really like my Safari tank.
I thought about the rotopax, but that needs removing and pouring into the tank, whereas the advantage of the Nomad is it feeds into the fuel line... I know their marketing doesn't mention that for some reason...
I've yet to hear anyone speak against it.
Interestingly, the owner of the company has a WRR ... and loves it
I've never found pouring the rotopax into the tank to be a real issue. It's not like I the bike runs out of fuel before I need a break. The rotopax does, however, allow you to choose the size tank you want to carry, allow you to share that precious fuel with others that may also need it, still let you store stuff on top of the can, and costs about half of the Nomad. That said, my personal sweet spot has been the ims 3 gal, with the 1 or 2 gal rotopax when needed. I think it ended up being cheaper to buy the 3gal ims tank and 1 gal rotopax than just the larger ims or safari tank. All the benefits, minimal drawbacks.
Also, check the vendors section, I believe forum members get 15% off the rotopax site.
'Cos i'm already in Australia it works out cheaper to get the Safari than the IMS, and I have the Force rad guard which it's designed around.
Currently I get three return trips to work on the standard tank (less if I take dirt detours ) and I pass two servos (gas stations) on the way. Using a rotopax to me is no different than stopping at the servo ... except I suppose I can stop in a different location. Plus in Australia I think the price of a rotopax and bracketry, plus a rack, is more than a Nomad.
Granted, the rack would be something I'd purchase at some point anyway.
Valid points on cost. I had the rotopax mounted on he back before I bought the ims. It worked, it was inexpensive, but i still ended up buying a bigger tank anyway. everything but a replacement tank was a fix, but not a solution. I'd bet that buying the nomad would still leave you wanting the safari. The nomad tanks look like they would certainly carry more fuel, but the design prevents any other use of that space.
it was cheaper for me to get the IMS than the Safari :huh
I've run a Nomad Tank No.1 on my WRR for the last two years (the one designed for XRs, TTRs etc). It fits fine behind the seat, although I had to add some foam (around 1cm thick) under the tank to ensure it had what I considered enough clearance between my FMF exhaust and the tank.
I've just sold that tank and replaced it with a Nomad No.7 tank because the previous Nomad No.1 tank wouldn't fit with the Wolfman pannier racks. The No.7 tank sits higher, more "on the guard" than "over the guard" so-to-speak. It doesn't have the "wings" that hang down. It seems to fit well.
About the usage, I never bothered bolting it down, just used the two rubber straps to connect it and it never moved. I also didn't plumb it in (put a stopper on the outlet, and just removed and tipped it in when needed). The No.1 tanks was lower profile and you could just strap a bag down on top of it. The No.7 tank is sloped towards the seat, so I think any bag would slide forward to the rear of the seat, which may or may not be a problem...
If you go with LED type blinkers you can install the 12O'Clock Labs Turn Signal Running light adaptors. They take three wires in and give you two wires out. The turn signals will then be on like a parking light and flash when you use them as a turn signal