Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
henrymartin, Thanks for the fork rebuild tutorial! Greatly appreciated!
Well the plastic itself isn't "delicate" per se - it's actually very thick. But it becomes delicate due to the amount of force required to get the plastic bent up enough to get over the tabs. There are 3 tabs, and it's all so tight-fitted that it's a real challenge getting them all lifted over the tabs so you can slide it apart. A couple times during the process I was pretty much just hoping something wouldn't just go "snap", and my efforts all be in vain.
Again, I don't know if I could do this trailside, or even in a motel room, with just the tools I carry in my tool roll, but I suppose if I did have a spare, I would attempt it before spending the $ on a new unit, and having to wait on it to arrive. Since my original pump still did work, I suppose I'll carry it with me on trips.
+1. Great pictures and explanation of the process!
No problem guys! Anything else, let me know.
I plan to do the same for the Britannia Lynx install.
Sorry that the pics are too big. I always copy pics from my blog without issues, but the last few post here too large. I tried resizing in "edit post" and it bounces back to the large size again. Something must have changed with ADV site itself.
Anyway, if the post is too large, I can just delete it and leave a link to the blog post.
Thanks for the detailed report !
One question, once there:
If I were just going to change fork oil... could i just stop here and jump to:
My bike sees very few dust, no sand or mud, so i guess i should change oil someday but that's all...
I think that would work. Just unscrew the cap, remove the spring and the little rod inside the damper, turn it upside down, pump it a few times, and when all the fluid has drained out, move on to the filling part. Nice and easy.
Just make sure the oil reaches the top of the inner tube. Otherwise you will get false reading level. It's always better to remove excess than not have enough.
There are small holes in the inner tube that let the oil seep between the inner/outer tubes.
would this one fit the WRR?
I got that link from No toil when I asked them for a filter for extreme dusty condition for the WRR
That's what I did ... left them upside down overnight.
Then when filling I cut down a spray bottle to the correct length to remove oil to the correct level.
That's for a WR-250F or WR-450F from 2003 and on.
dazler, i am planning an outback ride for april & may, extremely dusty so i've replaced the K&N with a unifilter foam unit & plan to use filter socks. will also carry the original foam filter preoiled as a quick replacement backup.
As noted, not the right part. Like I said before, I'm using the Yamaha OEM air filter--very well made, fits perfectly--with NoToil filter oil and it is holding up very well. I have 2 that I rotate.
Here's a good buy, less than $19 (#8 on the parts list):
I rotate between OEM and a No Toil - they both seem great and even after dusty rides, with my unmodified air box they don't get too bad... I can't be certain, but I think the No Toil is a bit more free-flowing and possibly gives higher 'brrrrrrrrrrrrrraaaaap!' factor.
I just did mine and it was a little difficult. I contacted Big Dog as he had done one and I was concerned that I would damage the tabs holding the center column on. He said that it was doable so I used two small flat bladed screw drivers and pried the outside column over the tab (required several attempts as the column would pop back over the first tab when I started to do the second). One thing that Big Dog said that he had done was to take a Xacto type knife and trim a very small amount from each of the tabs. I used that method also. The plastic column is pretty tough plastic. It could be done about anywhere if you had something to work on (some small pieces).
As I got that link from No toil I guess that employee don't know they are not compatible.
I already ordered the stock OEM filter cage. I don't know the stock Yamaha foam would filter better dust than the No toil green one. I already have it so I will wait for the cage to get here. And order a custom outerwear for it then it should work super for my area.
Until No toil built one using their extreme foam.
I would be tempted to try heating the plastic housing when replacing the pump in the assembly. I have 26,000 km on my original pump 2011, I wonder what the record is for an original pump?
I have a 2008 model with 45000km+ on the original pump
Fuggin A Thats what I like to hear.
Fuel, heat, and age attack the plasticizers so this I plan to keep mine warm when doing this operation.
I thought the early '08s were the ones typically prone to failure...? Personally I don't think I'd change something newer with that good of a track record.
I did mine in my 65-70°F garage (unseasonably warm day). I considered using heat, but although that might help some, I didn't really think that it would help enough to change it that much, considering the thickness of the plastic and very snug fitment. Not to mention consideration of the heat source near the fumes!
The key is just to take your time, and use that "inner torque wrench" feeling to know when to stop.
Did you lose your stock filter cage? That same cage should fit all the after markets foam filters. If you gotta order a different cage, my guess is you have the wrong filter.
Also pretty much any WR250F/WR450F engine part will not fit a WR250R/X.
Personally, I like the UniFilter, but if you are going to run NoToil Oil be sure that you use the Evolution formula (Green Bottle not Red) as on some after market air filter the Alcohol in the red bottle will dissolve the glue holding the air filters together (Obvously not a problem on the NoToil Filters). I've gone to the UniOil myself, seems easier. On long trips the filter skins sure are nice as well. I just keep a baggie of them pre-oiled and swap them out every few days.