Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. 4play

    4play Next?

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,747
    Location:
    Avondale, AZ
    The Edge 2 although it does look better has three major issues that kept me from going that route, it's no where near as bright as stock & I want to be seen, it's prone to water getting in and damaging it & third it doesn't protrude down or back far enough to keep the mud off of the light & more importantly you. I choose function over looks.

    Look at the back edge of the tire, draw a line from the back edge of the tire & the lowest part of the tail light/license plate & that's the mud path.
    I wacked off the lower section & cut out a piece of ABS to mount the plate on.

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    Then I used Highway Dirtbike turn signals where the stock signals used to be. Tucked in tight, should be out of harms way & they are very bright,


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  2. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,945
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    Tulsa, OK
    20,000 miles and my clutch gave up the ghost :cry

    What to do if this happens to you . . .

    The first thing I do is get all of my parts and information ready. Got the parts, then I printed out the two pages from the Service manual dealing with clutch replacement. Don't worry if you don't have a manual. I'll tell you everything you need to know from those two pages. It's a very simple procedure.

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    Next, you drain the oil.

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    Then you have to get the brake lever out of the way. There is a clip behind the bolt that holds the lever on that has to come off first. Then there is a washer. Then the bolt will screw right out with a 6mm allen wrench. Once the brake lever is loose, take the return spring off and disconnect the brake light switch. It doesn't need to come off completely, you just need to unhook it from the brake lever itself.

    Brake lever hanging loose.

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    Here's a shot of the parts that come off.

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    Once that is out of the way, you can remove the clutch side plastic cover. It's just three 8mm bolts.

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    Nekkid clutch cover :lol3

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    Some more 8mm bolts need to come out. I keep them in order by placing them in their respective positions on a paper towel. This helps keep everything organized.

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    Once the cover is off, this is what you're looking at. From here, it's just (5) 10mm bolts. We're almost there.

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    Here's what it looks like with the (5) bolts loose. Don't worry, those springs won't come flying off or anything.

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    The cover will pull right off giving you access to the clutch plates.

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    Here are the parts that have come off all laid out and organized.

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    Pull the old clutch plates off.

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    The old stack. They're burnt.

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    New parts!!!! You can see I ordered new springs to go with the new clutch plates. I figured since I was in here, I might as well freshen it all up.

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    Here's a comparison of a really burnt disc and a brand new disc.

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    From there, it's a simple matter of stacking up the new ones. Clutch plate, disc, plate, disc, etc.

    A note here, and the picture I took doesn't show it, but the clutch plates and discs need to be soaked in fresh, clean engine oil before assembly. Failure to do so can lead to very quickly burnt clutch plates, and you're back to square one.

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    Again, be sure to soak the clutch plates in and discs in clean oil prior to final install.

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    This is what you need the manual for. The torque specs :deal

    The (5) bolts that hold the cover on and the springs are to be 5.8 ft/lbs - or 70 inch/lbs. Don't confuse the two. A 1/4" torque wrench is usually adjusted in inch/lbs.

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    Once that is done, it is a simple matter of replacing the cover. All of the 8mm bolts that hold the main clutch cover and the plastic cover over that are to be torqued the same according to the Service Manual. 7.2 ft/lbs or 86 inch/lbs. Again, don't confuse the two.

    Re-mount your rear brake lever and fill the engine with oil.

    Congratulations. You're done. Without stopping to take pictures every 3 minutes, it's probably about a 20 minute job if you take your time.

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    I hope very few people have this problem, but if you do, don't sweat it. It's a quick and easy fix.
  3. avc8130

    avc8130 Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2008
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    Northern NJ
    Drain the oil to change the clutch?!?!? Blasphemy!

    When I was a kid, we'd just throw the bike down on the left side and swap the clutch.

    Great write up though. Best of luck with the new clutch!

    ac
  4. avc8130

    avc8130 Long timer

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    Krabill,

    WAIT A SECOND!!!

    Did you put those friction discs in DRY?!?!?!?!

    Unless the WR is an anomaly (edit: checked the service manual the WR is NOT an anomaly), you need to soak those frictions in clean oil BEFORE assembly!

    ac
  5. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2005
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    You are absolutely right, and no, I didn't install them dry. Since the WRR has a wet clutch, the plates and discs should be soaked in fresh oil before assembly. I didn't get a picture of that and I'll update the instructions.
  6. henrymartin

    henrymartin Mr. Tourguide

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2010
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    South of the Great North Woods
  7. Reeksy

    Reeksy high state of hiatus

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    Jan 9, 2010
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    Location:
    Mt Mellum
    Nice work Henry.

    hey - love that rack. I've got one just like it :wink:

    That sand is so white!!!
  8. Scott_PDX

    Scott_PDX Leisure Engineer

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,578
    Location:
    Portland...the newer one on the left side.
    Curious about that also. However, the rest of the write up is confidence expiring. Thanks.

    EDIT: See you did soak them, good job sharing.
  9. Bkblitzed

    Bkblitzed pinging

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Cali
    Im all for functionality over looks, but the actual plastic that holds my blinker is broken. Is there any other company that makes a whole new piece?

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  10. Sewerat

    Sewerat Cert. bike whore

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    Brooksdale, ON

    The drc lights are junk, we t thru three of them before I finally got something that worked and worked well. First two got wet, muck in them, so third on I sealed up really good and still wet muck. I went to the chopped stocker route for awhile until I looped it out on the ice lat year and broke it off. So early last spring went to ktm exc300 tail light. Needed to form my own aluminum bracket but built it right from scratch, plate holder, turn signal mounts and tail light mount.

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  11. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2009
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    Location:
    NJ
    Nice write up Krabill. :thumb
  12. avc8130

    avc8130 Long timer

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    Sewerat,

    That tail light looks GREAT! Really modernizes the ass.

    ac
  13. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day.

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2008
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    3,389
    Location:
    Southern Illinois USA
    A little time and trouble saving tip: Spread the brake pads apart, then the pedal can be pushed full travel till it hits the foot peg, zip-tie it to the food peg in this position and you don't have to remove it.
  14. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    Very good tip!

    I would imagine, however, that very few people take the time to service the brake lever pivot very often. It needs to be greased every now and then and this was a great opportunity to clean and re-grease the pivot bolt since the tools were out. Getting as much preventative maintenance done with very little extra effort prolongs the life of your motorcycle.
  15. coresports

    coresports coresports

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2011
    Oddometer:
    378
    great write up.

  16. USAIR

    USAIR picking and riding

    Joined:
    May 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,790
    Location:
    Northern Kentucky
    Edit:I Ok now I see you did....sorry I didn't read far enough down the page.
    Good job.

    That was going to be my comment I always soak the disk in oil before you assemble.
    I guess you could fill with oil and lay the bike on it's side for a while??

    Fred
  17. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    Oct 25, 2005
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    Location:
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    I guess my "clean" pictures are causing a rukus :lol3 I'll get the wet pics up tonight to clear up the confusion.
  18. Jäger 1

    Jäger 1 Osons

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    819
    Location:
    NW MT/SE BC
    Not me. Original battery gave up the ghost last year. Had the bike since '08 with over 50,000 on the clock, the riding seasons up here a few miles to the west of the Continental Divide are a little shorter than, say Florida, and it spent its winters on a battery tender.

    Started getting weak starts, and then on one stop on a ride I forgot to turn the ignition off after I stalled the bike while stopping to take a quick picture. Just sat astride the bike for the two minutes or so to dig my DSLR out of the tank bag, set up, and take the pics. Wouldn't fire after that; wouldn't turn over fast enough to catch. Happily, I was on a grade and a good rolling bump start solved the issue.

    I was about 50 miles from civilization at the time, so I took that as a hint and put a new battery - same as the original.

    Not complaining about the original battery in the least; it didn't owe me anything after that many years and mileage. But it reinforced the reality that batteries do have a life span even with proper care and minimal demands put on them. I rolled the dice by heading into the mountains solo (as usual) with a battery that was telling me it was getting weak. At nearly 60 and with over 50 years of riding, you really shouldn't do stupid stuff like that. But I did, and nearly set myself up for potentially a long, long walk...

    Batteries are cheaper than boot soles.
  19. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,263
    Location:
    Collingwood, Ontario
    Cool bike Drannen!

    It would look even better of you take those warning stickers off the tank and swingarm.
  20. Bkblitzed

    Bkblitzed pinging

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2014
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Cali
    thanks for all the suggestions, and info. I can't fab my own stuff just because i dont own a welder, and my friends welder is shit lol. That being said, it'll be much easier for me to buy an already rear tail light assembly. Now is edge and the OEM the only ones that come with both the brake+turn signal?

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