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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Xt600 All years are the same
Been there, done that. You need to call them and tell them you need a custom clutch cable identical to stock WR250R, plus x inches longer. They will ask you to be very specific about the value of x.
Thanks for the info , I think I'll order two.
Re. Yamaha clutch and brake levers:
And TT600s and even clutch side TT500s. Pretty handy if you've collected the whole set!
New wolf man fuel bottle holder and the best use for passenger pegs.
Why would you need to remove CS nut on the trail?
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I had one come loose on a trip, I was nearly 1000 miles from my truck and 3000 from home. The town only had 2 auto shops and both were dicks about tightening it for me or renting me the tools to do the job (I offered $20). I went to the Napa Auto, the guy was awesome, he refused any money and loaned me a 24" breaker bar and an impact socket. I had reused my CS nut a couple times and the tab broke, allowing the nut to loosen. Now I just buy a new nut with every drivetrain, $7 extra.
Protruding out that far, being aluminum, and right across from the nice hot exhaust I would be a bit worried about potential fire after a crash.
Among my various WRR crash experiences, I once managed to end up with my left foot pinned under the middle of the swing arm on the left side. It was very awkward to try to get free from that position. Thankfully a riding buddy was right behind me and pulled the bike off me.
So a new CS nut installed at the proper torque & peened with every drivetrain change and there is really no need to touch it between...and thus no need for that tool.
It's on the opposite side of the bike from the exhaust.
Thanks for the feedback.
I don't know that I'm worried bout the exhaust specifically. I agree that the bottle being on the side of bike puts it at more risk for puncture. Once the bottle is punctured and leaking I think there are lots of hot parts that would be a problem, exhaust, engine, starter, header.....
I think I will see if I can find a spot that is a little more protected.
I change my CS sprocket on longer trips, i do this on most of my bikes.
i new i would enjoy that answer.
kill joy. let the man take it with him.i ride some crazy shit and the only thing i take is a saw and a lot of misguided faith. which ive come to regret at times. Once was a burnt clutch, two clutch wires, a chain, levers, pedals, plastics, lights, front brake, handlebars, relays and beleive it or not a cs. Theres no way a good scout can prepare for everything. this what i do. new rubber, tubliss, a full tank, wallet and a shit load of determination and a saw.the determination is worth more than a garage full of tools.i forgot water
A) Remove? It's all about tightening it up if it comes loose.
B) I usually ride to dual sport events where I'll ride the 300 km's to an event, and switch out my gearing and wheels that my buddies thankfully cart up for me. I go from 14/51 to 13/51
C) i don't want to be "that f@#ken guy" with a mechanical who you're stuck in the middle of nowwhere with, but "That f@%ken guy!" who is prepared and has the tools to help a stranded buddy make it home. Once a boy scout..
The design of the cs installation flawed anyway, imho. 54 grams of tool is a fair trade off for me.
14t for the road/ adv rides, 13t for the gnarly stuff. I have 2 sets of wheels, I only have the one bike.
I run 14/50 all the time and the only time I'd take my CS off is when I redo the drivetrain.
Would a properly torqued and peened over new nut really ever move?
I'm not reading here this bike has repeated problems with the CS loosening if it's installed properly AND a new CS bolt is used.
My bike is on drivetrain #2 with this nut and it's been rock solid. I'll switch it out for the next one and for $7 will just do that each time from here on out.
Guaranteed if you follow Yamaha's method you have zero issues between for those who just stick with 1 setup (which I suspect is most here).
I get you want all the tools at all time but at a certain point it's just too much worrying about every what if. If it gets to that it might be better to stay locked at home as life is just too dangerous to go outside.
I follow the rule of changing the CS 1/2 thru the expected life of the chain.
The front most often wears out way before the rear and takes the chain out with it.
Many before me have found if you change the front 1/2 thru you get way more life on the 2nd 1/2 of the chain. Something like 25-50% total life.
After the 2nd CS wears out there is no saving the chain and the rear is going too.
Now I have no idea what avg chain life is like on this bike and of course chain choice related???
I've found 20k to be an avg full run on other bikes and a 10k CS change yielded 25-30k chain life when I started using this method.
So how long do chains last?
This is a small bore low torque pulse motor so I expect alot.
Ps and using this method I'd probably reuse the CS nut 1 time for the CS swap.
I've also put some Locktite blue on the shaft threads too as a backup. Since I started doing this on most every on every machine I own, I don't get loose bolts.