Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Hi all, anyone have any solid advice for fixing the throttle snatch on a stock bike, with only flapper mod done. Got the g2 tamer but still not that happy.. thinking off a EFI programmer to add a little sround idle only. Dont need more power, just smoother ride..
I put a G2 on my WR with the same results. Now I just feather the clutch more. Others have opined that they had success on the WR with the G2 but it didn’t work for me. I put one on my carbureted 300 2stroke and it worked well there. I think the issue with the WR is with the FI system programming.
X2 on abUSING the clutch more. In technical situations, the on/off of the throttle on this bike is a bit harsh (what bike is not?). I find it best to try and anticipate when coming into a technical section and setting the throttle at a higher rpm, then slipping the clutch for smoother power delivery to the rear wheel. On a wet clutch motorcycle, the clutch is intended to be slipped like that. There are a couple bonus to running at a higher RPM, the centrifugal force of the motor spinning faster will improve the balance of the bike at lower speeds, it is much harder to stall a motor that turning at 6000rpm than one turning at 1000.
Thanks, that was perfect! Tempts me to get Zeta bars too.
For those w/o the flash player needed to view the site (i.e. any Apple device) the specs for the stock WR250R handlebar are:
56 mm rise,
You really have to wonder who came up with those numbers. I mean, is 56mm rise that much better than a more rounded 58 mm rise? I think I’ll look for a 55mm rise, 58mm pullback.
Heavier flywheel. Getting rid of that low RPM snap is a major reason trials bikes have big flywheels and why people add flywheel inertia to their trail bikes. Unfortunately no one makes one for our bike. I turned a flywheel weight up over the holidays, but it is very tight in there - I was only able to add about 4 oz of weight w/o it bumping into something. I wont have a chance to try it out for another couple of months due to travel, but if it makes a real difference I’ll post the results.
The only way to get appreciably more inertia would be to make a new flywheel from scratch, and that seems like work to me. But I’m really surprised no one in the aftermarket has made heavy flywheel for this bike. Anyone know of a heavier clutch basket that fits?
I was very happy with the improvement of 14/50 gearing over stock. I thought that simple change took a lot of the bite out of the snatchiness. A little more buzz on the highway, but much better on trails.
I used an idle cable from a CBR600 Honda so I could manually adjust for a higher idle without changing the TPS. I found the info on the WRR/X forum. Also some info on You-Tube.
A higher idle along with lower gearing really helps.
So this happened. Happy New Year!!
Not sure about solid advice but most of what I have seen is people checking and adjusting the TPS if it is out of spec, changing the CO setting to add a bit more fuel off idle, idle speed, and the G2 throttle tamer.
Then there are others, like myself, who have just adapted to it.
I really don’t think the snatchy throttle is an accident or error on Yamaha’s part. You can blame the EPA in my opinion. They get better gas mileage and cleaner emissions when they completely shut off the fuel to the injector in “off throttle” mode.
They can't really turn the fuel completely off, or the bike will not idle, but I get what you are saying.
Having just bought my WRR, and having only ridden now a couple times, I'm glad to see the snappy throttle isn't just me. I'll probably just tough it out and get used to it...
Unless you almost never ride trails, the bike can really benefit from some lower gearing. Really helps the first-gear jerking...
If you never ride trails and want to stay stock, some minor clutch work takes care of any parking lot jerkiness.
"Snatchy throttle", LOL! It really is un nerving and a WTF? moment the first time you ride the dubya. While I had done a lot of internet research before choosing the wrr, I had not come across any comments about this one little surprise I got while test riding my craigslist find. Kinda reminds me of dumping the clutch for 2nd gear starts on the motocross gate. With time, one learns to feather the clutch moreso than with any other bike.
I want to avoid lower gearing if I can help it, since I want to preserve top speed for the highways. I'll be doing predominantly trail riding, but some of my favorite trails are a 20 mile interstate ride away.
All modern EFI systems use fuel cut at fully closed throttle ABOVE A CERTAIN RPM. For example, with an idle speed of 1300 rpm the fuel cut may disable when you get below 1800 so that the engine does not stall. This is usually transparent in multi cylinder engines because of more rotating mass, but in single cylinder motors with light flywheels like the WRR it can be bothersome. Tricks with cables and TPS adjustments can fool the computer into staying above the switchpoint and keep the fuel cut disabled at lower rpm.
You should gain a little top-end speed with something like 14/50. Definitely will gain a little pull above 70. Downside is a little more buzziness at freeway speeds. Slower trail-work improves dramatically.
I spend a lot of time on freeways, 70 - 75, and am very happy I went to 14/50. The extra buzz doesn't bother me, and the extra pull is nice. Still not enough pull for some freeway situations, but it's a little better.
I run an AC10 (100/100) on the rear and a XCMH in the front, so I already lost some of the pavement smoothness from the Trailwings. The drivetrain difference was minimal IMHO.
CO adjustement in the instrument cluster, and adjusting the TPS just about fixed mine.
What chain length are your running? 112?
According to gearing commander 14/50 is not the best option for sprocket/chain wear. Is that your experience?