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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Rulez Plebes, rulez!
How and what settings did you use?
Factory gearing on the WRX is 13/42.......................... So odd/even seems OK with Yamaha.
What are we going to do about this type of behavior?
Im currently on vecation, this was the first on youtube:
But just do a google search "wr250r Co adjustement" and "Wr205 adjusting tps"
Theres several guides.
Also try this website: http://wr250rforum.forumotion.com
Did this tonight, changed from -3 to (+) 10.
See how it feels tomorrow...
Well that is only one factor in chain wear and I would not really let it rule my decision.
I tend to ride my WRR in a lot of dirt, sand, and mud and not so much pavement. I have found that that has more to do with chain life on my WRR than sprocket and chain selection. Recently I have switched to a dry type lube for the rear chain to try and keep the dust and dirt off of it.
I have ran different sprocket and chain combinations and my chain life is pretty consistent and less than with my Ninja 650R street bike which also uses a 520 chain but seldom sees a dirt trail.
Right now I am running a 13/48 but will be going to a 47 tooth rear on the next chain replacement mainly because the sprocket was cheap and I wanted to try it out.
What ever you want. In general I think people most end up increasing the setting by 3 or 5. Sort of reminds me of how you would adjust the mixture screw on my 450 EXC. I would set the screw at the recommended factory setting then up the idle. Turn the screw out until I hear the idle drop (sometimes the idle may increase while going out but I would stop when I would hear it drop). Then turn the screw in and count the turns until you hear the idle drop again.
Take the number of turns you counted and divide that by two and turn the screw out that amount for the final setting.
Here is some info on how to do it:
If we extend "Threadshitter World" rules to this domain, I'm pretty sure we are going to collapse some kind of space-time continuum.
Then no one is going to be able to enjoy dog pics.
Anyone running 14/49 recall how many links they needed? (I'd also like to get my axle closer to the back of adjustment to lengthen wheelbase)
The PO went 13/49 on my dubya which is just a little too low for most of my riding.
Stock gearing is spot on for me
I dont do highway but any other road work is great and on the trails im not shifting much at all...just between second and third mainly...i dont do much single track.
I believe you would go with 114 links. Confirm with gearingcommander.com, it's been a while since I last looked.
I'm running 13:47, but would run 13:49 with tires much taller than stock.. So you may want to factor in the tire circumference also..
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Has anyone without an aftermarket case-saver type of thing have a chain break and bust their engine case? Wondering if this really happens on the wr.
I had a chain break and had no damage with the Sand Man case saver.
I know that is not really what you were asking but I totally beilive that guard did its job.
Yeah, I want to hear about someones engine case getting totally effed up . But also curious: was your masterlink riveted or clip style and did it break at the masterlink?
edit: edited the question
Clip style. I think I lost the clip. Then the master broke in half. I only do the rivit style anymore.
So I rode to work with the (+) 10 setting on the CO and it worked great. I'll prob just leave it there now.
TPS adjustment + G2 Throttle Tamer did the trick for me. I don't run a programmer and didn't try CO adjustment, but have read several accounts similar to those above where either or both helped.
I love my WRR but wouldn't still own it if the stock EFI jerkiness mine had wasn't resolvable. "Clutch control" isn't a sustainable long-term solution for creeping through rock gardens or tight trails for hours on end. The bike should be capable of coming off and onto idle without feeling like braking is being severely applied. But then again I've read of other who never complained about their stock setup, so maybe there are manufacturing and assembly variances that are more noticeable on some bikes like mine. I'm, really happy with how it works now though.
My solution was lower finial gearing and then run the bike in a lower gear. I almost never return to idle while moving. Just keep up around mid RPM, lugging around at just above idle is not something this motor is good at.