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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Check out True Value. They have quite an assortment.
Chopping a bolt usually butchers the thread, as you've said. I've never tried this, but it occurred to me that if you do, you might want to thread on the correct size die beforehand so that you can work it off the bolt afterwards. Like I said, just an idea.
I'm sure a hacksaw would do it, but I'd probably use a die grinder. A dremmel might do, but would likely take a while and a lot of disks.
Other than that just take it to a hardware store. I'm sure its a standard metric size so you could just get a shorter one.
The shop manual list fork fluid amount at 20.73 onces. I am assuming thats total & not each?
20.73 is kinda hard to divide on 2 isn't it?
Not beeing 1) a smartass or 2) a wrr owner.
Just thinking, and trying to remeber math classes =)
The picture shows the right side bolt; the left side does not have the same frame protrusion and can easily be done with a long socket.
For the right side, if you turn the handlebars full right, the frame protrusion does not interfere, but it's tight quarters to get a long socket on.
I did not use the HDB kit, and my bolts were the correct length with very little extra threads showing. I used a short socket but had a long extension (6"), so my clearance need was probably not as severe as with a long-reach socket.
Got it. Many thanks for this!
Chadx, if you do decide to cut the bolt make sure you screw the nut onto the bolt before cutting. This way when you are done hacking it off you can remove the bold which will do a much better job of cleaning up the threads that were cut.
Also, I have a slew of bolts if you want to try them. How long do you think the correct length of the bolt should be with your bottom clamps?? I maybe able to hook you up.
As Ramz said, the left side was very easy to remove/install but the right side i had to turn the bars to the right to get the wrench or socket on the nut. I have video of how I did it if you wanna see it.
Hit me back.. you probably got 100mm bolt with yours and i got a box of 70mm bolts that you are welcome to a couple of them, they are what HDB sent me.
This is why I like the smaller, lighter stand: Stores in minimal space, easy to to just slip under and raise in 10 seconds. Being a WRR and not one of those other (think Orange) bikes, it's 95% used for chain maintenance. Also small & light to throw in the "support vehicle". If only for WRR or similar, I think what gordo said applies. If you'll ever need it for a heavier bike, I agree that the larger type is likely the best investment.
That did it - Thanks
Well just call it 10 & change
Anybody looking for a set of Zeta handguards with the LED protectors?
I have a set for sale......
my friend has that one. much lighter than mine be he paid almost double of mine HF on, which was on sale.
if you don't have the room the smaller square lift ones are nice, however if you do the atv lifts are the bomb. because of the hydros & linkages it's any easy one man job of pumping the foot lever to raise or slowly releasing the valve to lower. i've used it with my friends heavy crusier & lifted it myself, if that tells ya anything. another nice thing with the HF one is that it has loops on all 4 corners so i can lift the bike, strap all 4 corners down & remove the handle. the lift is now under the bike and it's solidly connected to the bike if say i start removing wheels and changing the balance point or wrenching on a part. it's not gonna tip over. i can also roll up around on the lift or screw down the the grip points so it won't roll. when i'm done with it i tilt it up on it's side and remove the handle. none of these features are avail with the smaller square lift. the bike is just balancing up there.
the wood is not needed. this was a first time use. after this time i just lifted up any bike with the lift only.
I finished up my latest farkles on the bike today to be ready for my Big Bend trip in late February.
Hope you don't mind the pics, since it ain't riding weather around here....
Here's "Part 1" of my farkles...
For "Part 2" I added Fastway hand guards, Force rad guard, an Eastern Beaver c3 kit (to wire up my 12v accessory socket/electric tank bag, Symtec heated grips/switch and heated gear), new 606's, a Pro Billet rack and tail bag.
First up was the Fastway guards, but I had one mod to make for the bar mounting assembley. The stock setup had a curved radius that wouldn't fit my Rox pivoting risers, so old buddy Dale used a little band saw and grinder fab work.
Thanks Dale! Worked great!
Also used the Symtec grip heaters and some new ProGrips.
2" risers work fine with no issues.
Eastern Beaver etc.
Wired the relay from Nice Rumble's post.
My 12v socket (GPS) has a splitter to the tank bag to charge a cell phone or some AA batteries. I'll mount the socket more permanent once I get some smaller LED turn signals.
Great mounting idea guys!
Force rad guard...
Rackage and a budget tail bag. This should do...
Thanks for all the great tips people!
Nice job Mark!.. On your ProGrips & Symantec heaters, did you use JB weld or any other high temp adhesive on them? I was getting ready to install mine and the instructions say to use an adhesive, which I don't have right now... so thought I'd wait to get some. I don't want the grips to move thats for sure...
Guess I'll start routing my 3CS now...
Just got home from the 3rd annual Winter Dual Sport Ride From Hell. HF's, Garand's, and my WRR's performed flawlessly . . . and we were the only ones with heated gear thanks to our big ass alternator
Ride report coming soon . . .
I'm afraid I just used some of the wife's hair spray.
Said on the can it has really good holding power....so far, so good!
You can use grip glue, spray paint, hair spray or contact cleaner. Just use something that is slippery at first but will dissipate or dry in a few minutes. Just don't use a soap base as the first rain will cause it to loosen and slip. I found there is enough grip just using an air compressor to take the grip off and re-install. I use three wraps of safety wire to finish it off. No problems and less messy when using a glue.
Just snag a can of Aqua Net hairspray at Walmart for $3........you'll also be doing your part to support the team
So the heating elements don't effect the grips adhesion to the bars.. i usually use air or hairspray on bare bars.. i didn't know they still made Aquanet :)
Preferred propellant for potato cannons all across America.