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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Say what you want. My bike's still got the 12, still got the ORIGINAL swingarm, and NO CHEW. Go back and smoke your fairy dusty. Oh and drink some of that unicorn milk that you keep hidden under the seat of your bike.
So those of you who have had success with the 12T front sprocket and no rubbing problems what is the process/secret to the chain tension? I bought a 12T from RMATV a week after getting my bike but have never out it on. Think I will give it a try this weekend.
My process pretty much consists of checking the chain tension the way I have with any other bike I've had, that's always worked for me; I stick two fingers under the chain right where the slider ends and the chain guard starts. If it's too loose a fit, I tighten the chain...too tight and I loosen it. Your fingers may vary. Because mine's lowered, I haven't bothered with the one suggested in the manual. I always keep my chain on the tighter side of things rather than loose; that's when it starts to slap around and cause problems.
Honestly, I just keep it where it seems about right. When the bike is on the kickstand and I push up on the bottom of the chain, I can push it up a bit over 1/2". Once it gets over 3/4", I adjust the chain. Note that even when I stand the bike up, it's own weight make the butt sink (I have very low preload set) and checking it with it holding up it's own weight or with me, it is pretty tight. I'm due for a chain guide and have one laying here, but haven't swapped it yet. I have a total of 8,000 miles on the bike and about 3,000 of that was with the 12/43 combination. (I think I said 2,000 before, but he more I thought about it, I realized it was much longer than that because I didn't get my 13/48 installed until around 7,000 miles).
Am I running it too tight? I don't know. I guess we'll see if it causes any issues, but so far, so good. The stock 43 tooth was starting to wear at 7,000 miles when I swapped it, but I could have run it for a fair amount of time longer I think.
I think most people adjust the chain to about the right tension, but then wait too long for the next adjustment. Accelerated wear seems to occur during that "I'll get to it soon" period.
Procrastination can be nasty. I got into the habit of checking chain and tires before I leave a long time ago. No different than doing a pre-trip on the truck before heading out into the bush for a load. Easier to catch things when you're not in a rush and take your time checking stuff.
Thank's for the camparison pics of the stock and Sargent seats
I liked the look of the Sargent when I saw it and seeing it paired
up against the stocker has not changed my mind.
Another one to add to the farckle bucket wish list....
I used to run 12t on the front and had no problems with wear. I now run a 13 and a 48t rear so I can just change to a 12t or 14t front depending on the ride Im going on, though 99% of the time I stick w/ the 13.
Alot of people have alot of way to adjust chain tension but theres way too many varialbles involved in using a arbitrary measurement like 2 fingers or the like to get a accurate measurement. Everyones fingers are different. That being said, I will give what I feel is the absolute best way to adjust chain tension.
First of all put the bike on a stand. Next, remove the bolt that attatches the shock linkage pivot to the swing arm. Next put a floor jack under the rear tire and jack it up until the front sprocket nut, the swing arm pivot bolt and the axle nut are all lined up. That is the point where the the front and rear sprocket are the absolute farthest apart. Now adjust chain tensoin so there is just the slightest amount of slack. I usually set it so if I put my thumb under the chain and my index finger on top a couple of links away and squeeze theres just a little bit of give. At that point, using the adjusters make sure the rear wheel is straight. Dont trust the markings on the swing arm or the adjuster blocks, use a straight edge placed on the face of the rear sprocket and running down the length of the chain. Next, recheck chain tension and when youre satisfied, reassemble and tighten everything up.
Sounds like alot of work but you really only have to do it once, once the bike is all reassembled and tightened up, take the bike off the stand and feel how much slack is in the chain with the bike on its kick stand. All you need to do from then on is remember that or if you dont trust your memory measure it and from then on when ever you have to remove the rear wheel or adjust chain tension for any reason all you have to do is adjust tension to that spec with the bike on the kick stand and you have the perfect adjustment.
Hope that helps anyone thats real obsessive like me to be able to sleep well at night knowing that youre not doing damage to the bike while riding it.
Anyways, while Im posting here Id like to see if anyone whose fuel pump went out on them could give me their experience as I think mines on its way out. Lately my bike has been down on power, not terribly down but a noticeable amount. It feels fine at lower rpms and on big quick throttle openings but at high rpm WOT runs it feels like it runs out of steam on the top end. It doesnt fall on its face or anything but it just feels not as powerful as it once did. Also, once in a great while itll stumble or surge and once it got so bad thet it had almost no power, would stall at every stop and was real hard to start. When it did that I shut it off, let it sit for a few, restarted and it was fine and never happened again.
I really think its a fuel problem (lack of delivery volume)and was planning on getting a new pump when I change to my big tank but was hoping that someone whose died on them could give me some info on the symptoms they experienced before theirs died. Thanks in advance.
appreciated. on reflection, the rides I've been on were less than enjoyable as riding was second to dealing with the ridiculously ill suited power. the tease has been in fairly rocky stuff the suspension is a real joy to experience. they sure have come a long way since 1971 :huh . Christ that bike is sweet for a "dual sport".
Is everyone going with GYTR sprockets or just ordering WRR stuff. I really want to try the bike with what sounds like a 13/48 combo and give it another chance. thanks for the input.
I'm back to GYTR on the front...the Sidewinder didn't last 4500 miles. Not a big deal, BUT that wasn't what was talked about...on the rear, someone posted a steel one...didn't buy yet so forgot the name, link is around somewhere, want me to get it?
Edit: From ramz: http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/857049/drive-systems-520-superlite-steel-rear-sprocket---yamaha.html
i can whole hartedly recomend renthal chain wheels and chain, that 14/52 combo i went with realy rocks! and talk about super light!?! the rear is ozs. Not lbs. And that's rotating unsprung weight, and what's that? something like 6lbs. to the hp? chassis weight wise, taking off 8 lbs. is just like adding 1 hp
13/46 for close to 10,000 miles now. With a Renthal 46 Rear. It's just now
starting to get some scallop visible in it.
Chain/sprocket life all depends on the care you put into it.
Yes, a gearing change will help. Getting rid of the EXUP and opening up
the airbox and adding a fuel programmer will help as well.
Let that baby breathe and you'll see a difference.
Link to the rental stuff? I'll put it on the data thread.
you need to pm gadget boy and get your wr thread in his sticky
140 miles of fun today....
The more I ride this bike the more I like it
Your bike has also been lowered quite a bit. Don't you think your swingarm might be at a different angle than OEM, thus changing the whole 'swingarm chew' equation.
Also, how much do you weigh soaking wet, tiny one?!
As long as you have the bike lowered enough to flat foot with a 21" inseam, you should be good to go
Could be the pump, but I'd pull it and check if there's any crap blocking the intake. Dunno if the WR has a filters on the pressure side, but that would also be worth if it does.
Sure mine's lowered. So are others' bikes, and others who haven't lowered it that run the 12t, don't have that problem. You don't have to have it lowered with a 21" inseam and flatfoot to get away from that. Keep the chain adjusted properly is key; dropped or stock height.
Those of you who have replaced the o-ringon the oil filter cover, are these standard size and can I pick them up at a local auto parts store? How about the copper crush washer for the oil plug? Sizes?