Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. nachtflug

    nachtflug infidel

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    I know this has been hashed over countless times but if anyone could chime in on.

    1. stock gearing is?

    2. general consensus that the stock WRR countershaft sprocket can cause the chain to jump is at this point generally considered legit?

    3. assuming yes to #2 - WRF sprockets/gytr or aftermarket sprockets are the way to go?

    4. I'd rather go bigger on the back and not go smaller on the front. with on road performance not being a major concern what is anyones best suggestions for gearing set ups front and rear. I'm not totally opposed to changing the front sprocket, and will even if I leave the same # of teeth as I've experienced the skipping/chain hopping.

    thanks in advance.
  2. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    +1
  3. Reposado1800

    Reposado1800 Juicy J fan!

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    The goofy shaped teeth on the stock 2008 rear sprocket is what causes the chain to jump when it is on the loose side. They are pyramid shaped.
  4. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    1. stock is 13/43

    2. Something with the stock setup causes issues if there is too much slack. Not exactly sure what it is, but the problem goes away w/ aftermarket gear.

    3. WRF & YZF sprockets both fit on the WRR. I'm using Primary drive gear from Rockymountainatv, but I've seen guys running every sort of sprocket you can imagine.

    4. I'm running a 47T in the rear and I'm pretty close to the chain guide on the bottom. I'm not sure how much bigger you can go without an issue. I ride on the street quite a bit and use a 13T counter, but I rode a friend of mine's with a 12/47 setup and wow, if you're just going to set it up for off-road, that was one sweet setup.
  5. dirthauler

    dirthauler rolling rototiller

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    um,,
    hello?? 52 tooth.
    [​IMG]
  6. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    Well . . . I said I didn't know :lol3
  7. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Crap :lol3
  8. kyns

    kyns Long timer

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    I'm willing to bet 100 Euros that the chain can not skip. I keep my chain looose, it slaps a lot if pulling with too low rpms, but CAN NOT skip. I calculated way back when the skipping thing was first discussed that you need to have OVER 4 inches between chain and swing arm, when bike on a side stand, behind the chain slider, on top of swing arm, (where many of you like to keep their fingers) to make it even possible to skip.

    The chain CAN NOT hop just one tooth at a time. It has to jump half a SPROCKET at a time. Basic math, can't happen.

    So any takers for 100 Euros??


    Edit: Warning, if someone is willing to take the bet, that basically means you owe me 100 Euros...
  9. OKDQ

    OKDQ Been here awhile

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    I am by no means an expert on chains/sprockets (or anything mechanical), but here is my personal experience.

    I first went with the 12/43 combo and that was much improved over stock, but I still wanted something a little deeper for trail riding. Plus I am of the opinion that the 12T counter can (but not necessarily) affect the wear at the swingarm pivot - especially in my case because I'm fat!.

    I ended up going with 13/48 and I like it, but I have not ridden it on trails as much as I would like to really test it out. Besides being fat, I'm old (I use fat and old somewhat tongue in cheek) so my riding style is not "wring it's neck." I prefer to go a little slower and depend on throttle & torque. That being said, I believe the 13/48 combo fits the bill for me.

    But, since a lot of my riding seems to be on back roads, not trails just due to where I live - I have recently put on a 14T (14/48) and that combo works great for road riding, and it's simple to swap back to the 13T for trails. I've toyed with the idea of putting the 12 on front with the 48 just to see what it's like, but I haven't done it yet.

    If anyone is thinking of going to a 14T counter, be aware, I've got the VW Sandman case saver and my chain just barely rubs the case saver when running the 14T - I think I may be able to bend the case saver just enough to eliminate the rub - haven't tried yet though.
  10. OKDQ

    OKDQ Been here awhile

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    Since I'm not good at this mechanical stuff can anyone provide info re:

    1. Will getting rid of the exup, opening the airbox and adding a fuel programmer help if I plan on keeping the stock exhaust system?

    2. Will any of the above mods reduce low end power or torque? I am only interested in gaining at the low rpm end. Gains at higher rpm's are not what I'm looking for.

    Thanks,

    DQ
  11. dirthauler

    dirthauler rolling rototiller

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    really? i'm running the renthal 14T and sandman's cs gaurd&case saver, and i can almost get my pinky in between the chain and the case saver. ain't that odd?
  12. Chadx

    Chadx my toot toot

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    :lol3

    ...but just to clarify, the 8,000 miles (3,000 of it 12/43) was on my full height setup...and honestly, I don't know if lowering them makes chain guide/swingarm wear more likely, less likely, the same but in a different location or makes no difference at all.
  13. Chadx

    Chadx my toot toot

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    Haven't gotten to others responses yet, but here are mine...

    1. 13/43 on the R (13/42 on the X)

    2. skipping is unlikely related to countershaft sprocket size. It mostly blamed on too loose of chain tension. I've never experienced it and most others have not either.

    3. Any sprockets will do as long as it meets your requirements. I used steel because I wanted long wear and wasn't concerned with losing the equivalent of a .25 hp or whatever the equation works out to be. As for fit, the YZ and WR sprockets seem to fit, but by now, most manufactures and sellers have the appropriate database and labeling that you can order wrr/wrx sprockets and then don't have to guess. Oh, and don't run the D606 tire on the back since it's taller and you lose the equivalent of 2 or 3 teeth off the rear sprocket. Stick with stock rear tire height to keep the deepest ratio.

    4. I run 13/48 and it's a happy medium for road work. Since you say you don't care about that, the 13/52 on my wife's wrr is great for offroad work and it will still run down the road at 75 mph, but anything over 60mph gets vibby.
  14. Chadx

    Chadx my toot toot

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    Note for OKDQ that you can loosen all the bolts a bit, then push the case guard towards the case and tighten as you hold it. That will buy you some space.
  15. GotMojo?

    GotMojo? Long timer

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    I put a bit over 200 miles on my WRX today. Love this bike. So much damn fun its not even funny. I am debating on trading my Ninja 250R in and get a WRR to prepare for a ride on the TAT next summer. You just can't beat these bikes!

    Attached Files:

  16. SheWolf

    SheWolf Under Your Bed

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    You could just get the R wheels and use your X. Quite a few guys are switching wheel sets to have an all around bike.:deal
  17. GotMojo?

    GotMojo? Long timer

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    Naaa, I think I'd get a dedicated bike for doing the TAT. I wanna do track days and stuff on the WRX so its going to be setup for pavement, whereas the WRR would be mostly dirt with just a bit of street.
  18. scottmac

    scottmac Long timer

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  19. emerson.biguns

    emerson.biguns All idiot, no savant

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    URGENT....


    Bigdog and Dingweed are dead in the water on day two of their "Another Way Up" trip after hitting a monstrous thunder storm and some really nasty mud. Scott (Dingweed) toasted his clutch. (Not hard to believe since we really burnt them in last spring after the same thing happened.)

    I'm rounding up parts to get them going again. Only thing he should need is a clutch pack, right? No basket or springs, etc? I'm pulling mine right now to send up to them tomorrow AM.

    Thanks,

    John



    .
  20. mcwbyu82

    mcwbyu82 WRR'er

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    Bummer! where are they at?