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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
My WR did 100 mph? Sweeeet!
Your what will go over 100? And 100 as in mph or kph?
For what it's worth I think the broad opinion the Wr250R engine doesn't need valves checked until 26,000 "because the book says so" isn't fixed in reality. Believe it or don't, I don't care one way or the other. What I do know from working on these bikes is I've found an exhaust valve clearance out of spec at 2500 miles, on a bike that has not been run hard. Very possible it had always been that way. All it takes is for one of the shims to have bounced over 2 slots in the shim box, and the wrong one was installed. Would that 2 thousandths too tight wreck that engine's valve seat before 26,000 miles? You bet it could. Would it with 100% certainty? Of course not. Would that bike be out of warranty before the owner reaches 26,000 miles? Make your own guess, but that''s a lot of miles in one year on a 250. These are mechanical devices that suffer from the same manufacturing tolerance stacking as any other. If an owner wants a dealership to check it, why vehemently discourage him spending his money, it ain't your money. What is peace of mind worth, particularly to an owner that isn't knowledgable about the engineering involved in a high rpm motorcycle engine.
All I'm saying is, a valve clearance check somewhere early in the life of that engine, be it 600 miles or 2000 miles,well, I know I'll darn sure sleep better if my $6000 investment was checked. Trust but verify is my motto.
I've got to say something about the statements that dealerships (and I'm not associated with one) routinely commit consumer fraud, well, that's just plain ridiculous. Think about that. Thousands of business owners going through their daily business operations have built in approval to commit Felony Theft. Are there some that do as a matter of routine? Sure. Criminal elements can be fished out anywhere. But to blanket thousands of reputable businesses with they all are crooked, they won't even touch your bike and charge you $$$, don't be a fool,etc. is beyond reason. Every business owner is aware the Justice system in multiple, multiple levels watches for fraud. It makes for great headlines for them when they nab someone.
Then your friends would do the riding community in your particular town a goodwill service for reporting it to the District Attorney's office. If they don't, then their exercise was just to make garage talk.
If a dealer suggested a valve clearance check be done at 600 miles, he may full well know it is not a REQUIREMENT but his experience with motorcycles is also far greater than a single rider's. Saying he's a crook for making a suggestion (that IN REALITY is a prudent thing to do AT SOME POINT) is unreasonable.
Informed narrative. Nice talk.
The thread should stay on topic, and that is the WR250R. Start a dealer bashing thread in JoMomma if you need to. You'll find what you need there. I'm sure of it.
In a perfect world, after the sale of a motorcycle, the shop hopes to do ALL service to the bike. Routine maintainance, a few farkels, repairs and some warranty work. Some people take the shop at its word and NEVER touch their bike. The temptation for the shop is then to price gouge and make up busy work to make money. They kill their own customer base doing this.
One of my buddies has a Harley and he doesn't know a flat head from a torx bit screwdriver. He got reamed by the dealer to the tune of thousands for a bad cam bearing and motor mount they installed backwards. He now patronizes a really good mechanic who is a full time fire fighter and does bikes in his off time.
Dealers need to earn the customers trust by charging fair prices and doing competent work. Some do, some don't. If the motorcycle industry is ever going to turn around and gain more riders they ALL need to be fair and honest. My local dealer charged me $70 to mount a tire I brought in with the wheel only and they didn't even balance it. That was the first and last time I will ever use the dealer service dept.
I am eagerly waiting for my WR250X fuel pump recall notice in the mail. I am the original owner and get YAMAHA literature in the mail now and then. Mostly surveys. Lets see how long it takes for the proper notice and my date with the dealer to replace my fuel pump free of charge. I doubt it will be anytime soon.
I have followed this thread for a while and was hearing all about the IMS 3gal. tank that was just ready for production and suddenly for a while now there is no news. Summer is about over and the good riding season is about to start and I along with a lot of you would like to have that 3gal. tank to hit the trail with, what's going on? I tried to get on the IMS web site and when I bring it up all I get is a sound and a black screen. I thought it just took a while to load but nothing. Does anyone out there know what is going on.
I can go all the way to ordering it for $274.95, even though it's still a pre-order. Sounds like your interwebz are broken.
Actual or indicated? Downhill?
I think I've done everything except a turbo and mine won't do it.
Best i've done is 93 gps.. wot down hill straightaway. 13/42. usual performance mods. That was with travel gear & windscreen. I think if i lightened up a bit & maybe had a bit of tail wind, it would do it.
Ride report started.. part 1 of Riding the Rez. Rain, Rocks, & Chocolate.
I just lowered the seat height using the adjustment available in the rear shock stud - I lowered is as much as possible. My question: Will this affect the overall geometry enough that I will need to lower the front forks?
Try it as is & if you find it doesn't turn as well as you like then raise them a little.
Alright . . . on to the fuel pump . . .
Here's the new one as it arrived.
The first step is to empty the tank. A few minutes with a siphon hose and we're ready to go.
For those who haven't seen it, this is is what the fuel pump looks like when it's installed.
There really isn't much to it. Just remove the allen head bolts and it drops right out.
Here is the old one next to the new one.
I re-used the stock o-ring and haven't had an issue yet. Putting it all back together is just as easy as taking it apart. Put back together it fired right up and has been running great ever since
Now . . . somebody asked if I'd take my old one apart to see if maybe we could just carry the tiny little electric pump as a back-up and field strip it instead of having to try and pack a whole extra fuel pump assembly.
Short answer = NO
Well . . . maybe, but it isn't really meant to come apart after initial assembly.
Let me explain . . .
First - some shots around the old pump
A shot of the electrical connections.
These pop off without issue.
Then I unhooked the low fuel sensor.
The whole low fuel sensor assembly comes right off. Makes working on it easier with that out of the way. Now comes the hard part and the reason why I don't think this would be a good idea in the field . . . this thing isn't meant to come apart. Yes, there are just little clips that hold the "cage" on, but the clips don't push in and you really have to force the outer part out in order to unhook them. I wound up cracking it in a few places forcing it open.
Once forced open however, the fuel pump itself slides right out.
There is a little o-ring that goes around the top. Don't lose it.
Here's the actual part number to end all the confusion as to whether or not we share a fuel pump with the Zuma guys . . .
Fuel filter connection. This won't want to come off without the possibility of some damage, either. I tried prying on it a little bit, but since I was getting really close to breaking something I gave up.
Just for the hell of it, I disassembled the top part. I'll be honest and say I have no idea what this does . . . but here's how you take it apart. This came apart and went back together in a snap. No problems.
More o-rings you don't want to loose.
Tiny o-ring inside
After the helluva time I had trying to disassemble the pump in the first place, it becomes quite clear that it was designed to be put together, not taken apart. It all went back together in a matter of seconds.
Anyway . . . to sum up . . . it's a royal pita to take it apart and you'll most likely wind up cracking something in the process.
Hope that helps.
Great write up Krabill .
I assume the pumps are the same even though all numbers match except the last 4 digits on the second line?
I'm assuming the top number is the part number and the bottom number is the serial number for that particular pump. Don't know for sure, but that's my guess.
Assuming you wanted to lower the bike by using the ride height adjuster raising the forks will further help in that regard. Quoting from Yamlink, just remember changes to rake/trail (the forks) do not need to be on a 1:1 ratio with the rear because geometry is affected at a different rate. In addition, 18mm (3/4") is the most I'd raise the forks due to the possibility of fender/wheel contact at full bottoming.
I just installed the FMF Programmer and it seems to be working, but I wanted to confirm that after starting the bike, and all the LEDs scroll across, the number 1 LED slowly flashes.
I assume the number one LED flashing indicates the unit is operating normal? I can enter the programming mode and change things, so it appears to be working.
The instructions are a bit vague on this.
With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.