Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    I'm assuming the top number is the part number and the bottom number is the serial number for that particular pump. Don't know for sure, but that's my guess.
  2. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    Assuming you wanted to lower the bike by using the ride height adjuster raising the forks will further help in that regard. Quoting from Yamlink, just remember changes to rake/trail (the forks) do not need to be on a 1:1 ratio with the rear because geometry is affected at a different rate. In addition, 18mm (3/4") is the most I'd raise the forks due to the possibility of fender/wheel contact at full bottoming.
  3. ronvan

    ronvan Adventurer

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    Feb 18, 2008
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    San Diego, CA
    I just installed the FMF Programmer and it seems to be working, but I wanted to confirm that after starting the bike, and all the LEDs scroll across, the number 1 LED slowly flashes.

    I assume the number one LED flashing indicates the unit is operating normal? I can enter the programming mode and change things, so it appears to be working.

    The instructions are a bit vague on this.

    Thanks!
  4. BluePill

    BluePill AARP Slacker

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    With my rear set to full height (as it comes from the factory) I felt the bike was very twitchy above 60 MPH, especially in cross winds. The front end also tended to kick sideways too easilly when the side of the tire hit 2 to 4 inch rocks. Both problems were cured when I adjusted the rear to the lowest position.

    YMMV.
  5. BluePill

    BluePill AARP Slacker

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    +1

    Most modern assemblies are not like lego blocks - they are designed to go together quickly and tightly, and never be disassembled.
  6. GSBS

    GSBS FunHog

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    Damn, ridin' this little bike is so much fun!

    A quick, fun gravel road:
    <object width="853" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/OSxOOBn8t6E?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/OSxOOBn8t6E?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="853" height="505"></embed></object>

    Crossing the Locust Fork River:
    <object width="853" height="505"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Dklc0-9gutY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Dklc0-9gutY?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="853" height="505"></embed></object>
  7. OKDQ

    OKDQ Been here awhile

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    Central Oklahoma
    Thanks for replies. I'm going to take AZ Tom's advice and ride it for a while with the front forks in the current position (flush with the top of the clamp).

    BluePill - How are your front forks currently set?
  8. mcwbyu82

    mcwbyu82 WRR'er

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    Utah Valley
    I lowered my rear all the way and left the front alone and love it.
  9. Bake

    Bake adventurer

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    10,532
    Great information, Krabil, on the fuel pumps. Good for Yamaha with updating, whatever you want to call it, the assembly and also selling them!
  10. Bake

    Bake adventurer

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    10,532
    That's 6 mph faster than I was ever able to get my KLX250 to go, and it's running the 351 kit. It's been detailed out before elsewhere, the KLX351 doesn't have the porting (of the stock 250 head) to be able to breathe at really high revs like the WR can. The KLX351 is a tractor motor, and to get maximum hp (about 27) you don't rev the bike past 6500 rpm. It really does have a massive amount of torque, for a small engine at 3000 rpm and up.
  11. Chromer

    Chromer Not going gentle

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    Into that good night
    Thanks for trying.

    What happens when you put 12V across that pump?

    (A: The gasoline fumes explode...)
  12. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    so the true ballsy test would be to disassy the new one and see if the part #s are the same or diff on the new pump part itself or it was truely a bad production run and thus same part#
  13. AKASY

    AKASY Noob

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    Krabil--thanks for a great write up and the pics were excellent. I think the black thing you described on top is the fuel pressure pop off valve. The pump runs and pressures the fuel rail and if not needed the excess can return to the tank--at least that is my best guess. Again great pics.:clap
  14. BigFeet

    BigFeet Banned

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    May 15, 2009
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    501
    Clayjars,

    I used Rydnseek's recommendation :thumb and ran the 5.10-17 in back and 4.60-17 in front. They fit nicely.

    Opinions will vary on this, but I personally really like the look. :D With the Yamalink and Yamaha's lowering adjustment, I can flatfoot with these tires. That's important to me as a confidence builder due to the no good artificial "hinge". :eek1

    I'm farkling the hell out of the thing right now, so haven't ridden it with the Shinko's yet.

    Rydnseek/Scotty,

    Thanks once again for the tire info! :beer

    Artoo
  15. bhmax

    bhmax Adventurer

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    East TN
    I'm just about to finish up the rear Distanzia on my X. Been doing research on the IRC GP-1 and the Kenda and Shinko clones myself. I see the often mentioned Mefo Explorer is also available in those 17" tires. Leaning towards the IRCs right now for slightly better offroad capabilities than the Distanzias.
  16. dirthauler

    dirthauler rolling rototiller

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    i tend to lean to the kendas, but that's what i've had experience on but i tend to go for the off road only tires too
  17. big-t

    big-t Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2004
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    left corner of VA
    Just finished installing a new Safari tank and have a couple of question for those that have already have done this.
    After installation,I poured enough fuel in to cover the pickups in the wings wanting to check and see if the vacuum pump was doing its job.After running it a bit the tube to the right wing was full,but the one on the left had several large air bubbles and did not appear to be flowing fuel.Reving it up appears to help a bit but still have lots of air bubbles that give the appearance of the fuel not flowing .Is this the norm or do I have a problem??

    I replaced the vacuum T connector and replaced it with a straight one that connects directly to the source and that seemed to help,but maybe that was my imagination was working overtime?

    The other issue was the fitment of the seat leaves a gap at the bottom and wrinkles in the cover.I was thinking about putting a couple of spacers under the tank mount to get a better fit.

    Anyone else have these problems?
  18. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    How much gas do you have in it? Mine did that too when there wasn't enough in both wings to cover the pickups, part of the reason I sold it.

    It rained a lil bit today, so the play area off the C&D canal I went riding in with a buddy was a bit muddy. All that mud made the poor girl tired...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  19. bash3r

    bash3r I ain't no DingWeed

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    Yes, many cut some Kydex or piece of cutting board or washers.. to better fit where the tank bolts on near the seat.

    I've only noticed vaccum issues when extremely low on fuel, I'd make sure the vacuum valve nut is tight, I had to tighten mine up when I first got it, leaked a bit of fuel. Put that dude on then fill it with fuel.. and ride !!!

    In Idaho, me and Pax fueled up ever other time the stock gas tank WRs did, so the range is proven :thumb I dig it!
  20. Krabill

    Krabill Long timer

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    I've got a 1/4" spacer at the front and 1/2" spacer at the rear mount on my Safari. Everything seems to fit better that way.