Yamaha WR400F

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by a1fa, Jun 5, 2009.

  1. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    224
    Location:
    melbourne Australia
    These have heaps of power stock most of the mods are for rideability.

    Carb mods make the bike pull throughout the whole throttle action, this model was renowned for an awful bog when the throttle was cracked open hard.

    yz pipe increases responsivness Not much difference just an end cap and length I belive

    Exhaust cam is 100% for the auto decomp this helps the bike because with out the cam they used to stall all the time in the woods when you would rear brake slide into corners the auto decomp cam totally eliminated this problem, However i did notice a small power increase down lower but could be mistaken

    Keep the airbox stock.

    You can get lots of power out of these,at one stage, I had a head that was fully ported with Kibblewhite diamond coated ti valves with a prox high comp piston and had a lightened yz flywheel vortex ignition with a raised rev limiter and the bike was an absolute weapon to ride, too much to handle then I dropped the high comp piston and put the wiseco 450 kit in it and then it was worse. All this pursuit for horsepower just ended up costing a bomb because I destroyed two complete heads. I have put nearly everything back to stock, kept the vortex ignition because it has two settings max tourqe (slippery conditions) and max power and it never comes off the max tourqe setting.

    I was at an enduro and an old racer said dont spend money on motors spend it on brakes, tyres and suspension then go learn to ride. So I heeded this guys wisdom went to some riding schools and now brake much later and carry more corner speed and still round up most on the track and trail. Guys with the new bikes (especially the 16yo's) hate it when they get passed by a fat guy on a ten year old bike bike with a bad rep for being too hard to ride.

    Try this carb setting (may not work real well in US)
    standard yz needle (3rd from top clip)
    38 pilot jet
    165 main
    1 3/4 - 2 turns out on the air screw

    Bear in mind I have my bike running quite lean and I have tried the jd jetting kits and there recomended settings are way too rich for our fuel quality (quite a lot of setting on american forums dont work real well in Australia dont know why)

    :1drink:1drink:1drink
  2. ADV-Wes

    ADV-Wes I'm not lost....yet.

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    176
    Location:
    NE Victoria (Aus).

    Awesome mate, thanks a heap, EXACTLY what I was after - no need for a manual :clap

    Cheers.
  3. yamahaman

    yamahaman wannabe bike builder

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    224
    Location:
    melbourne Australia
    Forgot to mention chain slack must be measured with rear wheel off ground

    Oil filter is a kn142 by memory but check listing at shop
    :1drink:1drink:1drink
  4. MingRidesBikes

    MingRidesBikes Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    202
    Location:
    Boise, ID
    hey guys I just switched out the stock fender and tail light for a yz fender and DRC edge 2 tail light. Love the looks, but cannot figure out why the brake light will not work. I 1st just tried matching up the colors on the 3 wires. (btw, I have the brake pressure switch to activate the brake light) So the WR400's have a blue wire (constant i believe) and black wire (ground) that run from the bike to the stock tail light. The wire harness from the tail light has a yellow wire (brake light) that is not connected stock. The brake pressure switch is hooked up as so: The red wire from the banjo splices into the blue wire. and the yellow wire from the banjo hooks up directly to the yellow wire out of the stock tail light. This set up works perfect. no issues. here is the issue. When I switched to the DRC edge 2 tail light (again a red wire, a black wire, and a yellow wire) I hooked up black to black (ground), red to blue, and yellow to yellow. This is what happened: The running light works fine. but the 3 white licence plate LED's do not light up. when I press on the brake, the 3 white licence plate LED's light up. No change to the tail lights that are on. Okay so I look at the package, and what do you know it says the red is the brake light and the yellow is the running tail light. Okay, so I switch it around. Now I have black to black, red (drc wire) to yellow (bike), and yellow (drc wire) to blue (bike) and here is the result. Now the tail light AND the 3 white licence plate LED's are on, but the brake does nothing... The LED's don't get brighter, they don't dim. It's like the brake light (or pressure switch) doesn't exist! Can anyone help me??? Is there any other way to wire up 3 different wires knowing that the black on both the bike and the tail light is ground...
  5. LucasLeader

    LucasLeader Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Madras, OR
    Did you ever figure this out? Sounds like the LEDs for the brake light might be messed up? I read through your post quite a few times and it sounds like you have it hooked up correctly. What I did with my Acerbis tail light to figure it out was just touch the leads to a spare battery to see which one controlled the brake and running light.

    I had to deal with a wiring issue yesterday. I had no power to my tail light and eventually found a broken wire behind the headlight where the previous owner had used one of those cheap splicers that cut into the wire. I also got around to changing my steering bearings. They had grooves in the races and the bottom race was all pitted. The new bearings are nice and smooth! I felt like an idiot after mashing the fork tube caps when hammering out the fork legs (even through the piece of rubber I put on top). Don't know why I didn't think to just spread the clamps a bit with a screwdriver like a did when putting them back in.... Learn from my mistake!
  6. MingRidesBikes

    MingRidesBikes Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    202
    Location:
    Boise, ID
    I did, I had a bad connection between a splitter and my brake pressure switch. it was all wired correctly, just somehow when I sapped the 2 wires, brake and constant, the connection to the brake pressure switch somehow went bad. tore the entire thing apart and took the pressure switch in to get tested before I checked all my connectors... live and learn... lol
  7. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    Anyone have a Baja Light Kit on their WR400? I just picked up a 98 that needs some attention, but not too much attention...to the extent I took a small chance on the bike.

    A bit of a birds nest under the seat, but definitely started out as a Baja Design kit. Has a rectifier (i believe) and a "holding shelf" for a ni-cad battery bolted in the air box.

    Does anyone have a diagram of wiring for a 1998 WR400 Baja Design kit? I'm trying to make heads or tails of the various loose ends....

    ANY HELP would be MUCH appreciated!

    Chuck
  8. marbee40

    marbee40 Some Fear is Good

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,146
    Location:
    45 minutes-North-of-Los Anchorage
    Chuck,
    PM me. I bought a 2001 WR426 last year that came with an unopened Baja Designs kit. I spent a few days putting it together and not too difficult, but I didn't have to deal with a rats nest! :evil If you PM me your email, I'll scan the original BD instructions and send em off to ya! I'm sure it will be a damn sight better than what you have now! :deal I doubt much changed from 1998 to 2001 and the kit was purchased new in 2002 (yes, I have the receipts from 2002!). I'd put it on here but ADV won't allow posting of pics anymore without an outside photo acccount. :cry

    Jim in AK
  9. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    Thanks for the offer Marco, a PM has been sent. For reference purposes I have uploaded these pics on photobucket:

    Ok....I believe these two wires, (1) brown and (1) green are from the original Baja kit. I think they are for signals which aren't at the moment on the bike. However, I'm not seeing any potential "open" grounds for them.
    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    Ok, this next photo is a bit of a mess. The red wire running across my index finger comes directly from what I believe is a rectifier, then marries with the black (in-line) fuse which runs from what I believe is the original BD harness and then has the wire (open end/no connection..it is black but believe it should be red) that runs directly over my wedding ring? Clear as mud, right? The black wire that comes in to view directly at the tip of my middle finger also originates from the rectifier. It splits a few times and appears to be a ground for a few things.

    [​IMG][/URL][/IMG]

    As I have been typing this, and running a couple times back to the bike, I think I may have a plan. Each of the brown and green wires to an individual rear signal, each grounded to an open slot in the "two place" ground connections for my rear brake light....

    I think the red and black wires described in the second picture will be run to the nicad or nihm battery....i "thunk".

    Sorry for the rambling!
  10. Marco Moto

    Marco Moto Voyager

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,314
    Location:
    surrounded by the Great Lakes
    Hey Chuck,
    The rectifier takes the two wires coming from the alternator (AC wires, no positive or negative) and comes out with a red (Positive) and a black (negative).
    Now the guy wired the positive through a fuse, which is ok, don't mind the black color here, just keep in mind that that is the positive.
    If you're not familiar with a multi-meter, I would download the schematics for that particular BD kit, that way you can match the colors of the wires coming out of the handlebar switch.
    Basically, you have to take the red and black wires coming out of the rectifier, connect them to the battery and then with another set of red and black run the lights. Meaning split them into:
    a) one wire to go to the switch to run the headlight and tail light;
    b) one wire to the front brake switch;
    c) one wire to the rear brake switch.
    If you are installing the turn signals one wire will go to the handlebar switch that runs the signals.

    Now, the second connector that is on the brake switches will have to be wired to the brake light, so these will be two wires merging into one.
    Same scenario for the headlight, there will be one wire going to the low beam AND tail light, and another going to the high-beam and merge into the same wire that goes into the tail light.

    Sorry, but this is not easy to do "remotely" I wish you could come up to my shop and I guarantee you that we could solve this in 30 minutes.
    I live right in the middle of the Mitt, north of Mount Pleasant, let me know if you are coming up for any reason, I'd like to help.
  11. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    ...probably not.

    Ok...so what have folks "strapped" on to their early model WR400s? Mine is a 98....or has someone actually had any success locating a rebuild kit? So far, lots of searching for a kit of replacement seals/o-rings/gaskets with no results.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks!
  12. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    On a 1998 WR400...

    Ok...so, I have gotten a small nicad battery, front and rear signals installed, and the front/rear light is good to go with the battery charged.

    Virtually no juice to run the front and rear lamp when no battery is in place and charged. My banjo bolt may be jacked as well...still trouble shooting that.

    I'm thinking stator is the issue re: no/minimal lights when battery isn't charged.

    I have seen various versions of "checking a stator" which don't seem to jive with what I'm looking at on this bike.

    Any suggestions or steps that folks have done in the past?...and how many ohm/volts, etc... i may be looking at?

    Thanks!
  13. LucasLeader

    LucasLeader Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2010
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    Madras, OR
    I just got a carb from a 2004 WR that I'm getting ready to put on my '99. I don't really need it but the plan is to make it start easier and get rid of the bog.
  14. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    Ok folks,

    I have been occupying myself with a 1998 WR400 project.

    The skinny is a prev. owner installed a Baja Designs dual sport lighting kit and then at some point removed all of the signals and nicad rechargeable battery. This is a kicks start only model.

    I have replaced a few wires and installed some signals and worked a bit on the banjo bolt. With a fully charged nicad battery connected to the system, such as the Baja Designs nicad battery, the signals, headlight, tail light and brake light all work.

    However, very quickly the baja designs battery is drained and the headlamp is virtually out...like stupid dim....and the rear running light is virtually nonexistent.

    I just plugged my multi meter into the leads that connect to the nicad battery from the existing wiring system and after cranking the bike up I come away with DCV 20 of 3.4 and ACV200 of 6.7.

    I'm not for sure what i'm looking for from these two leads....my understanding is that the battery should be charged through this avenue, as well as provide some degree of power to the system itself....but clearly charging is not occurring.

    Bike starts fine...1st to 3rd kick everytime.

    ANY thoughts or suggestions would be outstanding....

    Thanks!
  15. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,097
    Location:
    Central Coast, Cal
    Personally, I would call tech support at BD. :deal

    However, I would suggest you get a schematic diagram of the stock wiring and then compare it to what you have. You need to find out if the PO installed the rectifier feature of the BD kit. IIRC, the WR came as an AC system only, but the full BD kit changes that to DC so you can run the horn and flasher relay, which only work on DC voltage. Lights will work on either AC or DC.

    When I had mine, I found out the stator output of these bikes are very weak (even for a dirt bike) and can barely run lights. I switched to LED bulbs because they draw so much less electricity.
  16. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    Read this on TT:

    R1, R6, and Hayabusa coils will all work as well...cheap on e-bay.

    That these can be used on a WR400 as replacement stators.

    Anyone heard of this/used one?

    Thanks!
  17. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,097
    Location:
    Central Coast, Cal
    No. I don't see how that would work. A coil is a coil and a stator is a stator. 2 different animals.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
  18. Storyteller

    Storyteller Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    Lickity-Split and the Big Ditch, MI
    I meant R1, R6, and Hayabusa stators will supposedly work, not coils. I miss spoke/typed.

    Should be receiving a WR426 stator in the next day or so to bolt on. We'll see.
  19. mrchristian

    mrchristian Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    331
    Location:
    LA, CA
    Hey ADVrider WR400F gurus,

    I have a WR400F with an older Baja Designs kit. I have had it for a few years and rarely used it on the road, so the turn signals and brake light were never hooked up (although they worked when I first bought the bike). The bike has always started.

    I decided to figure everything out this weekend and get the bike 100% street legal. I mounted/connected turn signals, connected the brake light and soldered a few broken connections in the harness that connects those things. After everything was done, the bike started (twice) on the stand, but now it will not start at all which has never happened before. Is it possible I fried something? The fuse on the harness near the battery seems fine (it is completing a circuit when I test it with the battery). Now nothing works - no life from turn signals, running light or anything. I had the turn signals and the running light working. I couldn't get the brake light to work - found that the pressure switch on the rear brake pedal is broken and ordered a new one.

    Some observations:
    -The rear brake light was dead, and I swapped it with a new two-filament bulb. I might have put the wrong wattage in, but they seemed really similar.
    -The headlight never worked. I hadn't got around to checking it at that point when I started the bike.
    -The battery (my friend gave me an extra one) reads 13.8V when I started messing around. After running the brake light and checking turn signals all day it reads about 12.8V now.
    -I sprayed WD40 into the turn signal portion of the switch. Felt like there was some dirt there and the right turn signal was acting finicky. Maybe I killed the switch somehow by doing this?
    -I didn't touch the front harness at all.

    What's the easiest / best way to start testing things to start narrowing down my starting issue? This bike started first kick on the stand and wouldn't start after that, so I'm almost sure I did something to the electrical to cause it. I doubt it would be fuel related (yes I checked to see that the petcock was on).

    Also - anyone have a switch they want to sell? I have the older one with the orange turn signal switch. It doesn't look like the new switch they sell is compatible with my system since it doesn't have a kill switch.

    Thanks,

    -Christian
  20. eddyturn

    eddyturn Wannabe

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,202
    Location:
    Hesperus, CO
    I duuno about your problems but could it be loose battery cables? Sidestand switch or clutch switch? Just guessing.