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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by TimberlineAdventure, Mar 29, 2008.
I send ya a pix and part number when I get back to the beach tomorrow.
dried out seal perhaps.
the stock spring is missing as well
Is it still something you can use. If not let's get it to someone who does.
PM me your address and I get it off. Now........ I am leaving on a 1800 mile trip in the morning so let's see how fast ya get back. If not perhaps Mrs Manfu can sub in. She an impact player . Guessing I can throw it in a small 3 day priority box?
Back side of of unopened 8 year old part.
Going by the part number, it looks like it will not fit my old girl. I'll have to pass it on to the next FF.
I'll take it. One of the last pieces to my build.
I have a '76 XT500 with crappy forks, lots of stiction some pitting. Rides crappy. I also have a set of forks from a latter model with the leading axle. Much better condition.
Does anyone know, will the later tubes and caps fit the early lowers? I'm thinking of rebuilding but would like to avoid the cost of re-chroming.
Why not just swap them intact? I have 79 YZ forks on my Xt500
I bet if OD of stanchions and size of bolt at bottom of fork that attaches fork to fork internals are same then you can swap internals. Just make sure your have some preload on the springs if the length is longer.
Thanks Sic, tried that. Steers like crap, under-steer. Maybe they were longer. Will have to look again.
The rear sprocket o my 1978 xt500 has developed a 'wiggle'. It can be 'wiggled' by hand about 1/8''. This seems excessive...
I'm assuming that my cush drive is worn out. Will replacing the cush drive rubbers fix this? I wanted to check and see if anyone else had this problem and fixed it before dropping $60 on some rubber pieces ($10 per rubber x 6 pieces)
I know some owners of the new Yamaha Tenere added some old innertubes in the cushdrive, when the rubbers would would wore out (a known problem with the newer XTZ), to keep it usable for some more miles. Why not try the same, to see if it stops.
I'm a long time XT500 rider, got my first one in 1976, and have had many other bikes, but my XT 500 is still my favourite.
I am desperately looking for a long range tank for my XT. I had a 32L Acerbis tank, but it got damaged in a fall, and I am told it cant be fixed. Does anyone have a large tank which will fit an XT500, 20L or larger to sell? Please contact me on firstname.lastname@example.org if you do
To follow up on my wobbly rear sprocket problem:
I took my rear wheel and sprocket carrier off yesterday. One of the O-rings in the sprocket carrier was smashed/ripped. I replaced it with a new one and the sprocket wobble is fixed.
Before you spend $60 on new cush-drive rubbers, check your sprocket carrier O-rings!!
Anyone have a recommendation on XT/TT engine rebuilders? Just a good solid torquey engine?
Or is this beast a DIY motor? I'll try pretty much anything.
no particular need right now, but I am thinking of buying a spare motor and do a rebuild on it. Then swapping the current over to the spare.
This one runs great but at idle has a knock that is worrisome.
it's a real easy to work on motor, no specific tool. You can do it yourself
Rebuild it yourself. It is one of the easiest motors I have ever worked on. Just remember... DO NOT DROP THE CAM CHAIN!
hi: google-translate (german-english) this page, this will provide an idea how to go about it...
it's a common problem, but this conversion will sort it out for good.
g max ~:)
I have read about this solution before, it looks like a nice setup. Replacing my ripped/squahed O-ring in the sprocket carrier solved my problem though.
I think the fix described in the link above (which requires machining and improving the bearing setup in the carrier) is a GREAT solution, but I wont do it until it is my only option left (if/when the hub and carrier get so worn that replacing the rubbers and shims will no longer fix the wobble).
Thanks for sharing the info. There is also an English version of the write-up with more pictures on the sr500 forum, for anyone interested.
Do it yourself. Find a good local machinist just in case you need to redo bore or what not. Super easy motor to work on and put back together. Highly recommend a 540 Wiseco with megacycle cam and 36mm Mikuni.