Yet another 950 high fender brake line question...

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by XSoCal, Feb 22, 2013.

  1. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    I know there are 500 high fender threads already, but I can't find an answer for this anywhere.

    When putting a high fender on a 950 Adventure you have two main options. 1) Converting the brake line setup to the 990 "S" style, with a tee at the triple clamp and a single line to the cylinder; in this setup the suspension travel is taken up by the S loops next to the forks, nothing moves by the bars. 2) Adding a second line off the master cylinder and running it straight down the front of the right fork. Suspension travel causes the brake lines to push up in front of the gauges a bit.

    Now maybe I crash more than most, but I don't like the idea of all that brake line exposed in the S system, and the movement upward with the straight line isn't that bad.

    But the problem when you have two straight lines the same length is the right one is about 6 inches too long and you have to make that loop which is really distracting. The question is does anyone know a KTM part number for a brake line that is 4-6 inches shorter than the stock one? Seems to me that would be the best solution, so no loop, just run it straight down.

    Second question is does anyone know the specs for the banjo on the line? There is no real reason to use a KTM part, if you know the exact size you could just order an aftermarket one of the correct length.

    Thanks!
    #1
  2. PABiker

    PABiker Anywhere but here

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    Can't help you with the shorter line since I went with the loop. But you do not need to order a new banjo, just swap the single hose one at the master with the double hose one from the caliper where the crossover line originates.
    #2
  3. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    Thanks...and I read all your previous posts on the subject, very helpful. I think the short line might be the perfect solution, just need to make sure of what will fit.
    #3
  4. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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    See the number of this guys number plate? See the brake lines?

    [​IMG]

    I went the "S" route as well:

    [​IMG]

    Good enough for Cyril Depres, good enough for me. :D
    #4
  5. AdvRonski

    AdvRonski They call me......Ronski

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    You HAVE to have the loop, or you would put a kink in a shorter line when you hit the first bump.
    I haven't had any problems with the 2-line system, and I don't even notice the loop when I'm riding.
    #5
  6. Beema Killa

    Beema Killa Beema Killa

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    I think Cyril crashes less than most of us. He also has the cavalry trailing him with parts and the people who can install or repair 'em. I run mine on the inside to guard against tearing a line in the bush or crashing. Never had an issue with rubbing the tire. Especially if you have great attention to detail and use common sense. My 2 cents.
    #6
  7. Hobbes950

    Hobbes950 Darth Kitten

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    I ran a shorter second line. Works ok but I didn't plan out the routing so well. It blocks the ignition switch a bit which makes taking the key out a bit of a pain. Go the "s" route.
    #7
  8. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    Very true, and if I go this route all your past posts will be very helpful. I saw that picture when you originally posted it and it almost convinced me, I was just thinking I ride a lot in an environment with lots of trees and brush, and maybe the S system was more for Dakar.

    Hey Beema Killa...hope you got out riding today, I might try for this Sunday. Seeing as we ride the same trails, that's good to know. Plus it seems that you and Lycan1 went the inside of the forks way, maybe that is the best compromise between Dakar and Alberta.

    This is a great heads up, thanks...I wondered about how much play you really have to leave in the line.

    Thanks for the info - I hadn't found anyone who actually tried it...it sounds like you have to leave enough play in the line for fork travel, which would put it in a bad position if you don't have the loop.

    So it sounds like it is the "S" route for me...just wanted to make sure 'cause the dual line isn't cheap. But with the mud we get up here when it starts to melt, I'm sure I'd just rip the low fender off so it needs to be done. I'll post some shots when I get it finished.
    #8
  9. biggus

    biggus Been here awhile

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  10. biggus

    biggus Been here awhile

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    What is the length of the 2 brake lines on the 990s?

    I have a 950 and am looking at making a transfer tube like Pyndon with a single brake line up to the master cylinder.[​IMG]
    #10
  11. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    So the reason for doing the tansfer tube rather than using the line with a T from a 990 non-abs model is that the 990 line is a bit tight to get around the high fender I think. Orangecicle, that is the line that you used, correct? Any problems with fit that would make the transfer tube worth doing?
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  12. biggus

    biggus Been here awhile

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    I followed PA Biker's High Fender Thread in HOW.

    After I bought the parts and installed them then I came across Pydon's post.

    I really do not like the 2 lines going to the master cylinder. I have the transfer tube threaded on both ends already but need to have the tabs tig welded on. Made up out of 304 stainless. Also going to make new brake lines up just in case I do not like what I come up with.

    My high fender is shimmed down from the lower triple clamp since I have the Rigid D2s mounted on the BDCW triple clamp bracket (which I had to shim down with a 3/4" piece of aluminum to clear my SW Motech Crash Bars).
    #12
  13. ciedema

    ciedema мотоциклист

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    I have had both the dual line setup from the master cylinder and cross over "S" style. I can't say there was a marked difference between the two.

    One problem I had with the dual line setup was that could never successfully stop the speedo cable from coming in contact with disk rotor.
    #13
  14. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    Well whatever I do I better do it soon - had a rock get caught between the tire and low fender yesterday; just scraped things butI can see how it can be worse. Maybe until I get the lines I'll raise the low fender an inch with a few brackets...I will probably be able to use the brackets for the fork guards anyway.
    #14
  15. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I saw someone asking on Pyndon's thread for the length of lines he used, I think he said he didn't keep any measurements. Has anyone already figured out what lengths are needed (06 950 standard)?

    Also curious on the specs you used for your transfer tube. OD, ID, length.

    I have the high fender on my 06 950 but I'm just running a single front disc at present (I run a front knobbie, I'd feel differently if I ran a front Scorpion). Even if I stick with one disc, I like the transfer tube idea as I hate the stupid loop of hose in the cockpit plus it makes it easy to switch between dual and single discs. KTM did a really nice job decluttering this area for the 990, 950 dash area sucks.
    #15
  16. biggus

    biggus Been here awhile

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    Nobody has come back with any lengths yet. I have a 06 950s so I guess I am just going to have to wing it and bend a piece of wire and see how it looks the measure. Glad I found this thread cause I had initially thought of running the lines straight up the fork tubes and allowing for full extension. I thought that is what Pyndon did initially. Then I read someone stating it would kink so I went back and looked over his thread and it shows he has them looped and not straight. That would of been a costly mistake on my part.

    As far as the tube goes I picked up a one meter length of stainless pipe they use to make gun barrels with here in Thailand for 15 bucks. I was lucky that this was the right ID for a M10x1.0 Tap!

    Cut a piece off 20cm long. Took it to a local machine shop and had them mill the ends flat for 75 cents. That is about as far as I got with it. I need to drill and cut the flat stock for the tabs and have them welded to the tube and weld 2 pieces of Tig Wire to keep the banjo bolts from rolling like in Pyndon's picture.
    #16
  17. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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    After I saw this little video clip I ran out to figure out how to get the crossover line off of the top of the low fender: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=667236

    :yikes
    #17
  18. biggus

    biggus Been here awhile

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    :eek1

    Damn that happened unexpectedly fast and hard.
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  19. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Yeah should be easy enough to figure out. I'd have to go a little shorter on the lower length as I have less travel (non-S).

    That makes sense. Thanks!

    What's this referring to?
    #19
  20. XSoCal

    XSoCal Been here awhile

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    I saw that too...I've had two accidents on my R1 where I go over the bars, the last one they took me away in an ambulance strapped to a board, so not keen to have it happen again!

    As far as the tansfer tube, I don't see the real advantage over a T fitting if the lines are the exact right length to run across the top of the lower triple right after the T. And if the banjo size is M10x1.0 for sure then it could be custom ordered for less than the 990 S split line.
    #20