yikes...too many projects

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by kellymac530, Sep 12, 2011.

  1. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,789
    Location:
    NorCal
    Nice 1-ton, I really like the less popular trucks, Studes, Intl, Willys, COEs rock also.
    #21
  2. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,052
    Location:
    so. cal.
    SHorty, NOT gonna get a typical small block in this puppy...no way. The lump it has in it now looks like I may be able to get it running, at least at my first inspections. No water or goey sludge in any component. Still need to pull the valve covers and do some inspection and a compression test later this week, but so far so good. The lump in it is a 232 cu in Stude v8 out of a later model Lark or something. Very cool to me if I can salvage that motor. Not gonna spend a fortune on it just to salvage it, but I will give it hell to try and use it. If I just cant get it running...it will probably be a Blue Flame L6 or something like that just because they are cool, cheap, readily available, and lots of cool hot rod stuff like offy intakes with multiple carbs, blowers, headers....and they just sound bitchen with a cherry bomb glass pack on them.

    I drained the rearend and the oil was in great shape!! No water or rust in the oil at all. Obviously I cant actually see much of the gears because of the split center pumpkin with no cover, but looking thru the drain and fill plug holes and seeing the condition of the oil, I truely feel the rear end is 100% useable. I also pulled an axle and the brake drum, they looked GREAT. A light turn and the drum will be fine {I have a brake lathe at my avail:wink:} even the shoes look fully useable as well as the hardware. They just need a good cleaning and maybe a bit of sanding up. All of the rubber parts like the wheel cylinder boots and cups are just gone but that is expected.

    Now it is just dig into the trans oil and get into the motor....

    BTW, while I like the idea of a more modern front axle...no disc brakes for me! Then remeber, this is a C cab and not very wide so a Grumman or Top Kick or IH uhaul truck style front end will be WAY too wide, and I am not comfy cutting and welding a front axle. If the front end is anything like the rear, I am sure it will be fine. As to brakes, If they are scary, I will add a booster or some other type of MC and wheel cylinders combo to help improve them.
    #22
  3. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    sweeet someone after my own heart on the RIGHT way to build something!!!!....i paid hell talking myself into going disc on the front of my 58 ford custom300 but the drums even for the day were too small...i kept the 312 non syncro 3spd with od

    i only tossed the "slighty" modern stuff up cause no one useualy thinks about keeping the ibeam and useualy you find it with basicaly a new f350 under it or motorhome stuff...actualy...come to think of it you might keep your eye out for the 70's ibeam MH setups if the brakes are too scary...they really arnt that wide......ive got a early 70s dodge sitting on the farm i should measure up...i intend to build an l-600 out of it using a modified a-108

    id be VERY supprised if you cant salvage pretty well everything save for the wheel cyl's and brake/fuel lines and probably the fuel tank....they built em to last back then...however on the wheel cyl's if you cant save em you should be able to hone em out to something you can get cups for....if its got lines the size my 47 ford stuff is im actualy thinking DUAL mc's...seems like the only solution...i really doubt the brakes will be all that scary unless you plan to load it down like it was intended....oh..and if you cant find brake shoes..contact otts friction supply they can pretty well make you brakes and clutches so long as you have all the metal parts..and a fraction of the price of new stuff "if" anyone stocked it LOL

    ill definatly be watching this one :clap
    #23
  4. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,052
    Location:
    so. cal.
    On track width, my truck from center of tire to center of tire is only about 60" + or- 1/2" {hard to tell with this old and trashed out tires} and the track width of late 60's and up pickup trucks run 65-70" I doubt any MH or box truck will be narrow enough since I wanna keep the tires tucked under the stock wells.

    I think the stock front axle may work fine. The more I am digging in to this thing the better it looks. So far everything I have fiddled with seems in working order...other than rubber bits.

    Check out my new thread I am posting on brake ratios that I need help with. Maybe some of you will have answers for me.

    Thanx again guys pics to come soon.
    #24
  5. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    considering how low of miles most farm trucks see...and how much time is spent just sitting...it doesnt really suprise me that its in that good of shape really..and id bet there is probably no slop in the king pins either
    #25
  6. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,052
    Location:
    so. cal.
    Well I have been digging in. The odo reads 70089. It was a straight 6, I believe a flat head, now has been converted to a V8. The guys on the studebaker forums think it is a 232ci but there is still some question, looking for serial numbers on the block today. The diff is in great shape. Front and rear brakes seem great, outside of any rubber parts of course.

    The coolest news is that the trans is in perfect condition. An added plus is that it is a factory overdrive unit. The truck has a 3 on the tree but there is a splitter on the rear end of the trans that technically makes it a 6 speed....But that is a very tricky driving experience I hear. If nothing else it is an overdrive that makes it a 4 speed that top gear is actually overdriven.

    I have drained all of the fluids from all units, diff, trans, OD, and engine and there wasn't a spot of rust or a drop of water in any one of them...good news.

    The mixed news is that I pulled the valve covers and the top end is very sludgey. Bad from the stand point of having sludge in the motor which can clog oil passages and starve areas of lubrication and potentially cause a failure. Good from the satnd point that all parts are nicely covered with a coat of oily sludge and has prevented ANY rust from forming on anything I can find. Even the inside of the valve covers, which are notorious for holding condensation and rusting inside on barn find vehichles, are completely coated with a film of oily sludge and NO rust.

    Anyone know a good product for removing sludge from a valve train?

    I had to laugh a bit. After shop vacing out all of the sticks and leaves and mouse nests from the interior and the engine compartment and under the open plenum on the intake manifold, I start to fiddle with things just sorting thru things and the throttle plate wouldnt rotate so I squirt all of the linkage with some PB blaster and shoot some down the carb venturi. I was not on a stool so I could not look straight down the carb. I let it sit a bit and try to rotate the butterflies again, nothing, so I get on a stool and look down the venturi...guess what, yep another mouse nest packed into the carb....damn mice..:rofl
    #26
  7. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    LOL 10-1 odds are rthe muffler will blow when its fired...too many times ive see those as one HUGE nest...ive actualy seen nests INSIDE the engine...1 open valve on a big enuf engine and..well you guessed it urinated piston...sad shame

    as for the sludge..theres alot of good chemicals out there.....take a pic and toss it up..id like to see how bad it is.....if its not crazy bad id actuay probably run som marvle thru it a few times while running and do some oil changes and forget about it...modern oil will break alot of that down
    if its crazy bad?...id pull the pan and then hose down everything you can get at with some diesel to start loosening it all up..then blast it with some brake clean and then more diesel..after that it will probably be pretty clean....


    70k miles..wow...thats ALOT for a farm truck ...but for something over 50 years old thats crazy low..LOL

    WICKED news finding out shes got a splitter on the case...yes they are tricky to master but once mastered are quite fun to drive.......

    the fast that the butterflys still open on a nested up setup like that...your VERY lucky!!!
    #27
  8. jbcaddy

    jbcaddy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,238
    Location:
    Oroville & Placerville, California U.S.of A.
    I'm suprised to hear of a three on the tree. most trucks of that GVW had 4spd trannys. drove a Chevy with a 4 and 2spd rear, don't remember all the details now, but you will master it quickly I am sure. Jan
    #28
  9. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,673
    Location:
    Midcoast, Maine
    I'd really like to see how this turns out. I have been contemplating a similar setup. Cool old truck with historic plates with a somewhat modern small diesel transplant. Perfect!
    #29
  10. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    toss up some more pic's!!!!!


    do your axles look anything like ...THESE buggers of mine?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #30
  11. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,295
    Location:
    HIGH desert
    That last picture looks like a "super red ram" Hemi that came in my old 55 Dodge.
    #31
  12. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    56 354 with 40k
    #32
  13. jbcaddy

    jbcaddy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,238
    Location:
    Oroville & Placerville, California U.S.of A.
    maybe somebody should post a motorcycle in one of the photos before we get kicked out for talking about trucks so much:D
    #33
  14. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    ive got an old trashed honda scooter ill toss on one of the axles for a "size comparison" lol that should work:rofl
    #34
  15. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    10,664
    Location:
    Silver Spring, Md
    I think these axles would be useful for building a trike. Not too many Dualie Trikes around. :huh
    #35
  16. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,052
    Location:
    so. cal.
    Been a while since I checked in. I have been busy recovering and tinkering on my truck. I got the brakes all redone except for the master cylinder which I am fitting a Corvette 2 pot and a 7" mini booster too add me a little stopping power in comfort.The drums were in good shape so I just turned them for a fresh surface, shoes were almost new so I just re-arched them myself with a square table and a belt sander, and I rebuilt the wheel cylinders with all new bleeders and all rubber parts and thourough honeing.

    I got some decent roller tires and new tubes mounted up on the 2 piece rims. I painted the rims and mix of rustoleum oil-based enamel, where I mixed 2 parts of safety red with 1 part safety yellow. For a nice darker orangey red color and I painted the rings a creamy almond color. I think they look pretty cool.

    I am ordering some new wheels this week because I want to use tubeless drop center wheels. Unfortunately there is only one place in the country who makes the "Big 6" 6x7.25" bolt pattern wheel. They are not my favorite style, but they will work. This way I am also able to drop the front wheels down to 15" and use some Big and Littles with some Vintage replica Pie Crust fronts and Replica Firestone cheater slicks on the rear.

    I went thru and remade my own E-brake cables, and have disassembled some of the latches and hinges and cleaned them up and made a few things work smoother.

    I already recieved my complete wiring harness which I will start installing this week. I finished my registration stuff and am waiting for my title, which BTW, I found out the truck is actually a 1949 not a '52 so I have changed that in the titling.

    A GREAT contact and new GREAT friend I made on another Studebaker Drivers Club forum wanted to help me, so he GAVE me a 1963 Stude 289ci Full Flow motor than ran great when he pulled it a year ago from a parts car. Yes I said GAVE it to me. My little 232ci in the truck is an unknown commodity and may need alot of repairs, so to start off with a known, good running, commodity is a big step forward.

    To make this truck run really well I decided to just freshen up the motor. I stripped it down and it was in great internal shape so I am just giving it a nice Hone job and fresh ring. The heads look great so I am just cleaning them and going to lap the valves and put in new valve seals.I have mic'd the main and rod bearings and plastigauged them and they measure like new, so why mess with them? Then it will get all new gaskets and crank seals and a fresh coat of paint and then new brass freeze plugs. It should be a GREAT little 289 runner for daily driving. Just to clarify it is NOT a Ford 289, it is a Stude. The rings and gaskets should be here in a week or 2 so reassembly will start ASAP.

    The rear differential does not have a cover, it is an OLD Timken style rear end and is split in the center and bolted together kinda like a quick change on a Sprint car. But when I drained the fluid it came out really in good shape with NO rust or grit and was still in useable shape even after sitting for 35 years. Same goes for the trans and OD unit, clean and smooth. So both checked out and rotate perfectly. The clutch will get deeper inspection when I pull the motor later this week, but it actuates smoothly and grabs firmly and seems to be in great useable shape. ALL GOOD so far.

    The seat is going in for upholstery in a couple of weeks, so since the interior is VERY simple that will make it driveable.
    Forward progress is not crazy fast, but there is progress none the less.

    I had it out in the front yard the other day and since it is green with some rusty area on top surfaces a 4 year old girl neighbor said "hey your truck looks like Oscar the Grouch on seasame street" and the name has stuck. His name is officially Oscar.
    Since he has given me alot of trouble on many things like parts availability and just frozen parts that break off, the Grouch part seemed quite apparapot. {spell check}. I am not normally a big "name my vehicles" kind of guy, but in this case it has taken on the persona perfectly so Oscar it is.

    Here is a link to the latest pics, nothing special, but fun and getting there.

    http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb343/kmac530/

    Here are the rims I am ordering, I will custom pwdercoat them in a similar color to what I have now, it is the black wheels in the pic.

    http://www.diamondracingwheels.com/drwcustom.html

    And the front tires, blackwall though I think...not positive yet.

    http://store.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-blackwall.html

    And the rear tires

    http://store.cokertire.com/tire-styles/bias-ply-tires/890-16-firestone-grooved-rear.html

    Or these, not sure yet

    http://store.cokertire.com/tire-styles/bias-ply-tires/820-16-firestone-dragster.html?___SID=U

    What do you guys think?
    I am building the truck with an era and theme concept in mind. The era is 1963-64, the theme is a 16 year old kid gets his license and his Grampa gives him an old ratty looking Flatbed/Stakebed 3/4 ton Studebaker truck and on his gas station attendant income he is trying to hot rod the ugly old truck....I am building to "half way there" look. I am leaving the paint the way it is...I will scuff off the surface rust a bit, polish the paint that is there and clear coat over it all to freeze the "patina" where it is.

    What do you guys think?
    #36
  17. jbcaddy

    jbcaddy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,238
    Location:
    Oroville & Placerville, California U.S.of A.
    I'm suprised that 15" rims will fit on the front, but admit I've never really measured the drums on my '47. Glad to hear that you are gettin r done. feeling a bit of shame for putting mine off, but the house must come first. JB
    #37
  18. kellymac530

    kellymac530 motorcycle addict

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,052
    Location:
    so. cal.
    Yes, the rear drums are 14" drums and barely fit inside the 16" rims, but the fronts are only 12" drums and have plenty of room for smaller rims. I could probably clear 14" rims....not that would.
    #38
  19. sh0rtlife

    sh0rtlife Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2011
    Oddometer:
    796
    Location:
    20 mins west of portland oregon
    the repaint of the wheels looks GREAT and honestly id stick with them...but i understand the desire to change them...ill be curious to see what you swap out to.....since im in the same boat on wheels...and lot of shops just cringe when you tell em its that old and its a split rim

    overall i think your going in the right direction tho im not sold on the cheeter slicks out back....but they are really cool lookin and ive always liked them....
    #39
  20. vtwin

    vtwin Air cooled runnin' mon

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    7,789
    Location:
    NorCal
    Nice truck!

    [​IMG]
    #40