05 Driveshaft options?

The parts I bought are ELBE 106 after reading this thread.

To piggy up on the table, I used my diesel over hydraulic bike lift.

Got any video of the lift and rigging?:eek1:eek1

question... I have been stalking this section for sometime now, as I plan on getting a GS within the year and I am curious as to why these drive shafts are not "serviceable"? Looking at pictures, I see no reason that u-joints cannot be changed out just like any other vehicles u-joints. Heck, any reputable driveshaft shop should be able to do the job or at the very least measure the old u-joints and cross reference to get you what you need. I am wrong here?

Most driveline shops won't touch stakes u-joints. Randy's Driveline in Houston (the shop every other shop referred me to) said the same. Bruno's in Canada will but time there, shop time and slow boat back was well beyond my pacience limit.


As for finding parts, 19mm bearings are rare in the states. I did find some on the web for $13 but one guess what would happen first hard launch. The ones I listed have a 383 ft lb torque spec so should handle anything the boxer can throw at it.

GS was nothing, had to use ballast lifting this onto the table.

gotcha, thanks for clearing that up. you must be close to me. I am in Alvin.

Thanks msliz... long time since we crossed paths on this web site... I knew some one here would know what the ratio was... i looked how it was written in the parts book and it just didn't make since,,,, Im no math major for sure.. I took trig twice in college and i think the prof took pitty on me and passed me on effort.. ether that or he was tired of hosting "study Hall " with nursing students... on second thought that might have been chemistry class... I think i took it twice also.....

Damn Larry, that really blows. I think I'd be raising some serious stink at both Interstate and the BMW dealer. Sounds like they are in bed together. The dealer should have set the adjuster straight about the swing arm not being the final drive and contains no oil.

Suck when a dealer won't go to bat for an owner. And they wonder why they get the toupee, plaid pants wearing shyster image that no one trusts.

Been moving slow on this, in the middle of a floors and doors remod at the casa so shop time has been spars.

After following Doc’s advice, I cut the crosses and used a fine thread press I made for this job to remove the old bits.





The front was loose and one pin on the rear joint was dry.



The new parts arrived from Fresno Driveline. The zerk is threaded into a 45° boss so clearance will be an issue which I solved later.





With the stakes removed from the bores, I started at the rear joint and used my handy-dandy press to load the rear yoke with new guts.

I started one cap…



Inserted the cross into it...

IMPORTANT! If you are going to leave the zerk in, make note of the direction it is pointing in this photo.



Then I used to press to drive the cross all the way through until the other side met the anvil of the press.





I then pressed the second cap and eyeballed center.



I finished the rear by installing the bearing in the rear shaft yoke in the same manner. The hole in the rear of the shaft gives clearance for the zerk to swing through the arc without interference. (Not the case of the front.)



After installing the front in the same manner, I pumped the joints full of Lucas Tacky Red and removed the front zerk and replaced it with a 6mm set screw. During FD services, I’ll pull the shaft, replace the zerk, grease the joint then re-plug the hole.

The next step requires tools not found in most weekend moto shops but the service can be bought in a machine shop near you.

I chucked the shaft in a four jaw chuck and zeroed the run out in the yoke. The other end of the shaft was supported by a steady rest. Taking reading at the location of a cap then at 180° gave me the offset for that bearing set... Here it was .005”





I used my tool again to draw the shaft over .0025” to center this set.



I followed the same procedure for the second set of bearings for this end the repeated the procedure for the other.

With the shaft running out about .001” at either end, I figured I’d check the middle and found it had .008 run out.




Another thing I found is that the lateral play in the yoke/spline interface is also about .007” at the end if the yoke. Not sure if this is normal but I would guess it is.

To feel good about my efforts, I took the shaft to my CNC buddy and he is going to have his brother check my work and see if I hosed the job.

Next: Washer weld, re-install and test drive.

Is this shaft problem common on all bmw or is just the r1200's
I have been told all bmw have rear end problems.. or is that a myth too?

nice write up. I feel better about getting a gsa. I can do all of that with the tools I currently own

"Common" is relative. In truth, 95% of us will never have an issue. But those who do have an expensive and inconvenient one!

DS does a nice job of showing how it can be done, though it would be hard for most of us to do in out garage.

Jim

Hey Tom, I need to come visit one weekend . I 'll bring my driveshaft and wobbly rear end. You can impress me with your mechanical and technical skills. I'll stand there and go Ohh and Ahh!

2 questions..

Part Number for U Joint?

Could you install CV needle type zerk and have clearance? It appears so...

I have a shaft sitting here waiting to be refitted..

Sorry, thought I put the part number in the thread somewhere.

It is ELBE 106. Looks like they only have one more in stock.

Don, bring it by and we can sit on the porch and sip some Mark prior to fix'n yours.

Are you back on the road and fixed?

Back on the road but the GS is still on the operating table. I dropped the shaft off at my buddies for him to check my work. A week time slot opened up in my house remodel so I hopped on the Wing and hauled ass, in Marathon right now.

Gonna take a shower, grab my Crown, some Ice, head to the fire place and screw with some GS riders staying in a cabin next to me.

I would get a copy of the BMW REPROM and provide them with the details therein regarding the rear swinging arm housing.

The housing merely encases the driveshaft which is not suspended in oil. If they are still not listening, I would file with the local small claims court and bring a copy of the BMW manual to court to prove your claim.

Really interesting and informative thread . Thanks for all the info .

Don't forget these folks in Wisconsin. They have done BMW shafts before.

http://www.machineservice.com/products/