Breakfast with Keas, New Zealand 2018

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

The year 2017 was rather unsuitable for vacation, ten month on crutches were a very good reason not to drive my bike. The cause was a small accident on old-fashioned dirtbike terrain in late 2016 in Romania. I terminated the lower knee joint plate, all treating physicians noticed, a bad thing. A little video?

Knieputt by Michael, auf Flickr

After two surgeries, I almost can walk normally, complete stretching is no longer possible, it is more worrying that the diffraction is limited. But life goes or limps on.

So how to spend the saved money and holiday days? New Zealand has been on my list for a long time. A country very, very far away, at the other end of the world, sparsely populated, with people speaking a language that resembles something like English. So what has kept me away from travelling in New Zealand by motorbike?

Point 1: The long flight, about 30 hours are already an announcement and most in an aircraft on limited space with uncomfortable sleeping conditions.

Point 2: How can I get around there with a motor powered two-wheeler? Shipping my own bike, but is too expensive for a planned 3 weeks stay. So only the rent remains. But there are some New Zealanders that penetrated this gap in the market.

Point 3: What does it cost? The travel fund empties quickly, considering the first two points. You also forced to eat in New Zealand and somehow, when it gets dark, you would like to have a more or less fixed sleeping space ....................

In short, whoever wants to travel that way will not get away cheaply. But you only live once, if you believe the usual religions.

Flight was searched and booked at Emirates, about 1300 EUR, flight time about 29 hours. There are cheaper options, but they fly even longer, no alternative.

The choice of the motorcycle. Basically I travel with my KTM 690, so an adventure bike is a good choice. So I rented in Germany, company MoVe, a Yamaha 660 Tenere. Was the cheapest, but also the "lighest" bike, about 1600 EUR for 3 weeks.

A good choice, because on the island the side roads often turn from asphalt into gravel.

Well, and the remaining expenses? In short, 1 NZ dollars costs about 0.60 EUR.

Fuel, about 2 dollars

Restaurant visits, two courses, around the 40 to 50 dollars, whereby the alcoholic beverage is expensive.

Bed&Breakfast, Backpacker hotel, from 50 to 90 dollars

Campsite

5-10 dollar, "wilderness" only toilet
13 dollar DOC toilet, cold shower
20 dollar TOP 10 Holiday Park.

Landscape priceless.

If you are traveling via Garmin GPS, this card is available for you:

http://nzopengps.org/index.phpoption=com_content&view=article&id=6&Itemid=11

It is routable and works very well.

For the adventure bikers, who prefer it unpaved, recommended: https://www.adventureridingnz.co.nz/welcome-to-adventure-riding-nz/

Lots of tracks with description and GPS tracks. Just log in and you can download the data.

or https://www.remotemoto.com/

You have also to sign up, but they want 99 Dollar for the data. I think they offer more tracks.

Also a good source: http://advrider.com/index.php?forums/new-zealand.65/

There is a lot reading material, I got this four items.

_
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Threre are no different items for travelling by bike in New Zealand nessecary, so I packed:

The camping stuff

Tent: https://www.wechsel-tents.de/zelte/travel-pathfinder-231060/

Sleeping bag: http://www.sirjoseph.cz/en/products/sleeping-bags/i6-rimo-ii-600-968.htm

Mat: https://www.thermarest.com/mattresses/prolite-plus

the photo and electronics department

Neuseeland 2018 001 Start-4 by Michael, auf Flickr

Kamera Olympus E-M10MarkII mit Olympus M.12-40mm F2.8, Akku Ladegerät Patona Olympus/Sony, FiiO - X3 Portable High Resolution Lossless Music Player, Kopfhörer Koss KSC 75

Garmin GPS Montana, Dell Venue 8 Pro Windows Tablet, Powerbank

TROND G4U 4-fach-USB-Reiseladegerät, Flugzeug Kopfhörer Adapter, Tablet USB Hub/Kartenleser, CSL - Ultra Slim Bluetooth Tastatur, Black Diamond Spot Headlamp

Backup Kamera Sony NEX 5

Normal and motorcycle clothes and a pack sack disappear into my dive suitcase. Exactly, I bought it cheap for a trip to Canada, very spacious and if necessary also usable as a "backpack" .

Neuseeland 2018 001 Start-3 by Michael, auf Flickr

In the middle of february, I take the train from Cologne to Dusseldorf airport. The suitcase has exactly 29 kg, the new passport is also accepted and nothing stands in the way of the start. Almost nothing, a small immigrant from Iceland were hidden in my backpack.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Start-1 by Michael, auf Flickr

Does he have to go into the cargo hold, what do the New Zealanders say? They are a bit weird with plants, animals and stuff like that.

The plane takes off and after midnight, for the first time I celebrate my birthday at an altitude of 10,000 meters. Economie class, the seat is quite ok, there is a plentiful supply of new films, series, etc., only in the game department they are somehow stuck in the 80s.

Food is ok, plentiful drinks, so you do not dehydrate. After 6 hours stopover in Dubai, check out, a 3 hour stay, you can buy some diamonds or just search for a couch and try to sleep, don`t forget to check in.

The flight goes nonstop to Sydney. At some point you do not know, is it day, night, should I try to sleep or catch the fifth movie? Like bus driving in the jet stream.

Landing in Sydney, check out again. Great, I'm in Australia. Should I buy the boomerang or do I feel like one? Get back in the plane, a small hop and the pilot finds Christchurch, thank God.

Truthfully I specified I had a tent, please queue in the luggage control, hopefully the Icelandic immigrant keep quiet. They do not want to see boots, only the tent is picked apart and considered to be clean. All wrapped up again, you have officially arrived in New Zealand.

First steps lead to the ATM, trying out whether the new credit card is usefull to get some cash in foreign countries, it could. I booked a room at B & B Airport Magnolia Accommodation, not far from the airport. Practically reachable by bus 29, but with the heavy bag I take a taxi. A few minutes later and 20 dollars poorer, I arrive there in the middle of an residential area, the entrance leads through the garden. The landlord is present, tells me the code for the door, shows me the room and the dining options in the area. Dollars change hands and I first check the quality of the bed. Mr. Jetlag is not noticeable, only the lack of sleep slightly dampens the holiday joy.

I have some spare time to take the bus to the city center. You can also get used to the traffic on the left as a pedestrian, always looking to the right. But unfortunately I will be a victim of unfamiliar traffic guidance, as I see the bus arriving in the correct direction, but unfortunately this happens on the wrong side of the road. I spare myself the sprint over the four-lane road, go to dinner, enjoy the evenings 20 degrees in the garden and try later to sleep upside down, works without problems.

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 1: Leithfield – Methven

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-006 Karte by Michael, auf Flickr

After an undisturbed sleep, I make myself a tea and wait in the garden at the B&B for the
arrival of the Kiwi Motorcycle Rentals "taxi".

Neuseeland 2018 001 Start-2 by Michael, auf Flickr

Their home is located in Leithfield, about 40 km north of Christchurch and a shuttle to the vehicle of my desire is included. It appears punctually but she is a little confused about the place of the pickup, is probably not so often booked by customers. The ride was spent with small talk and first tips about the specifics of motorcycling in New Zealand.

Shortly after arrival, the Tenere stands freshly cleaned in front of me.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-007 by Michael, auf Flickr

A Yamaha XT 660 Tenere, equipped with 2 suitcases, visually nice. Short briefing, it has just everything what a motorcycle needs. The previous tenant said the engine would consume increased oil, which may happen after 70.000 km. So another 1 liter of oil is put into the luggage, together with a rear wheel tube, needed tools for wheel removal and chain spray. I had taken a front wheel tube, mounting lever and a small first aid kit, just in case.

Oil control is made at the top of the steering head, known from my blessed DRZ 400. Refilling the lubricant isn`t easy, a healthy center jet from the oil bottle should lead to greater pollution.

Also carrying the tubes is more placebo. Without center stand, the change to change the tube is a bit difficult without a matching stump, stone, etc., the Tenere weighs with luggage about 220 kg.

So, just adjust the levers and attach the GPS, conveniently, the Japanese build a hoop above the instruments. Impractically, I have to remove the windshield, attached with plastic screws. Advance to the usual butter alloy screws? Who know`s?

My equipment is distributed in both suitcases, the luggage roll and the man. The plan was to start with a small round to the Banks peninsula to Akaroa. Exactly, the part on the right below Christchruch, which looks like an extinct volcano and, surprise, is one. But I was advised against, small streets and favorite destination of the knee grinder from the city. Also, I would either have to drive through Christchurch or drive around. Ok, so a waypoint is set on the planned track towards the mountains.

A start picture on the Pacific beach would be nice. Is not difficult, the Leithfield beach is only about 2 km away. Small problem, beach driving is forbidden because of sand, wear, but that is not my plan. Follow the signs and turn into a small gravel road, which turns fast in sandy terrain. The tires of the Tenere are not necessarily made for fine, deep sand, which confirms impressively when I want to turnaround. Super Start, just after a 5 minutes drive, I managed to dig the Tenere in. Did I mention it was warm, that`s normal, because February means summer in New Zealand? So jacket off, luggage and try to dig the bike out.

A few minutes later it rings at my rental and a stupid German asks for help, minutes later, a Kiwi rescue team with a big smile in the faces appears and transported the bike on solid ground. Can a tour start better?

Yes, because if I had turned left instead of right, I would have reached the beach on safe ground. Well, the Pacific start photo.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

After about 1.5 years without serious motorcycle contact, thinking about a certain acclimation phase. Not really. The XT is at least as high as my KTM, the seat is usable, cycling shorts can remain in the suitcase. Seating position is handicapped accessible, only with strong sloping position in left turns with unfavorable ground, an unwanted ground contact happens twice. The approx. 50 kg additional weight are clearly noticeable due to the high center of gravity. With the KTM turning is simple, the Yamaha isn`t turning that easy.

The engine is not the embodiment of sportsmanship, but perfectly adequate for relaxed holidays. A mystery is the tank. Normal with 21 l content, but according to the Kiwis, I should look after about 220 km for a gas station, after about 280 km it would be empty. The fuel gauge also shows full and at 280 km the instrument shows one bar, refueled 12 liters. Anyway, range is ok for New Zealand.

The tires are a bit on the roady side. On the rear its ok, but at the front the Heidenau isn`t for speed cornering gravel roads, I miss knobbies. But on holiday speed, it`s also ok.

Always starts perfectly, also on the Pacific beach. I follow the GPS and in the distance the mountains are visible, but right now it is still flat, with some rivers and exotic plants.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

The planned track and the mountains are reached.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

At the winding mountain route, some road builders are busy and one of the many overstrained, car-driving Chinese hit completely unmotivated the brakes. My boot hasn`t expected that and can`t leave the footrest fast enough, whereupon the XT goes into maximum tilt. The Chinese does not care, the friendly trucker behind helps me and sets up the fallen ironpig. Note. Also, the Yamaha has a gasoline shut-off valve, so ignition off / on in case of an unespected fall.

Continue driving through the mountains until the GPS track turns onto Lyndon Road.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

Attentive New Zealand connoisseurs will recognize this is the sign from the other end of the route, but here, no one noticed.

The route is almost a must, definitely fine weather and gravel.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

Back there's Arthur Pass somewhere, planned for next week.

I booked that, blue sky, gravel and mountains.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-014 by Michael, auf Flickr

Cows are expected.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

Oh yes, of course, picturesque lakes should not be missed.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

I feel watched, cows are the new sheep.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

The exact observer is right, it blows tremendously from the right.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

On the Homestead Road expected increase sheeps.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-022 by Michael, auf Flickr

On the Zig Zag Road, drives like it`s name, I enter the Mount Hutt Lodge http://www.mthuttlodge.co.nz/index.htm , feel hungry and decide to take a prematurely dinner, a very tasty decision. Unfortunately, but there is no free room and the campsite in the Rakaia Gorge, 300 m down the road, has no shower. On the advice of the host I drive to Methven.

But before, taking a little look, jetboat on the Rakaia River.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-023 by Michael, auf Flickr

and the Mount Hutt in the evening light.

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-024 by Michael, auf Flickr

In Methven I drive to the Abisko Campground, located in the middle of the town. Cost $ 15, beautiful lawn, showers $ 1 per 5 minutes, which I understand only hearing it three times, because of the "wide" English the nice lady at the front desk speaks. I was able to give her some joy, showing her some exotic currency in Euro coins. Quickly build the tent

Neuseeland 2018 001 Leithfield – Methven-025 by Michael, auf Flickr

and take a shower. After that it was dark and it wasn`t easy to find anything drinkable in the streets, which died out at 9 o'clock. But a "Good night beer can" helped to fall into sleep.

Following!

If you plan to come up in Tauranga, just Pm me for a real bed, shower and a washing machine!

Thanks, but this is no live report. Sadly, over a month ago.

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 2: Methven – Geraldine

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

Good Morning. Crawled out of the tent and the town also wakes up. It has advantages to camp in the city center, for example having breakfast in normal clothes, said, done and entered the Cafe 131. The breakfast selection can not deny their English origins, but so early in the morning only tea and toast must be warm. That's why the Continental is ordered. Toast, jam, cereal, yogurt with fruit, tea and a fresh apple juice.

Definitely the best breakfast on the tour, even the fruits were fresh. The city goes online, daddy brings his son with the MTB to school, the garbage workers strengthen themselves with coffee and the letters are carried out with a tea time delay. Deceleration seems to be the motto of life here.

After so much relaxation, no hurry to leave the campground. Has anyone wondered where the Icelandic immigrant left off? No, not quarantined or deported.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

He enjoys the view and has settled well. The morning starts with the evaluate mix of asphalt and gravel. Shortly after the branch in Mount Sommers, I accelerate out of a bend and suddenly the rear goes sideways. Upps, oil on the road ?, I think, as the pulse rises, counter steering and the wheels search their way parallel to the road again. I am straight again, the oily feeling remains. That only means one thing, a flat.

Super, the second flat tire on the road in about 40 years. New Zealand does not seem to make it easy for me.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Perfect place not to change a tube by myself, everything fenced, no possible way to jack up the Tenere, best weather and the sun is burning from the sky. The only advantage, I can describe the location of the event exactly. So I try to call the AA, the New Zealand ADAC, does not work. Calling my rental company , there he is again, and described the problem. They take care and call back. I make myself comfortable in the shade of the Tenere and wait. 10 minutes later my cell phone rings. In about 30 km, there is a motorcycle shop, they pick me up and helps to bring the Yamaha on two inflated tires again. Half an hour later I'm sitting in a tow truck with a kiwi, I had imagined the morning differently.

In short, http://www.springlynnemotorcycles.co.nz/store/c1/Featured_Products.html help you. And to pass the time, there is a small museum

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

with old german two-wheelers

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

for small

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

and big

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

and for the Commonwealth

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

Lost some precious time and dollars, I leave the workshop and resume the track. This time, no lonely Spax screw stopps the journey.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

The destination is Lake Heron.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Again, a pretty piece of landscape at the other end of the world.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-014 by Michael, auf Flickr

With exotic plants near the way.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-016 by Michael, auf Flickr

Along the way lay the Maori Lakes.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

A nice place to take a longer break, no sounds and the wind has diminished a little bit.

Neuseeland 2018 002 Methven – Geraldine-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

I set up my tent for the night at the TOP 10 campground in Geraldine, after talking to Michael in the registration for 10 minutes, why Michael is the best name in the world.

Freshly showered it takes 5 minutes into the city center, it takes just as long unshowered. Actually, I wanted to do some shopping, but almost all stores shut down at 5 PM, also part of the deceleration. So the gas station is the next source for liquid supply. Sure, on the way back I walk through an open supermarket. My stomach growls, with a burger and black beer the noice is gone. Speaking of noice, they are playing Pat Benatar, Steve Miller Band and Blondie, immediately I feel 30 years younger. No wonder I fell asleep like a baby in the tent .

By the way, what is Ms. Benatar doing today? Singing, what else. And still very good.

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 3: Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

The TOP 10 Campingground is in the city, so I have a leisurely breakfast, no hurry to departure. The weather is warm, but already very cloudy. On my way to the west, the first rainshower in New Zealand covers me and the black wall at the horizon is the reason not to go on. Above me it clarifies, maybe I should explore the area and hope that the weather improves in time, said, driven.

Rural New Zealand

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

Historic New Zealand, an old lime kiln.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

On the Pioneer Trail, I could have gone west to Fairlie, but even I can not plan everything exactly.

Talking about planning, nice to have or use. New Zealand Topo Map https://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap

So I take the 79

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

to get to Lake Opuha, pass the Mt. Michael. An officially Camping Site, but there is nothing except an restroom.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

The bad weather turns north, just fine.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

Time for a short commercial break.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

The route choice improved

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

but spontaneous track changes are always an option

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

for example turn left at Burkes Pass.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

At Mckenzie Pass there was probably an unpleasant encounter for Mr. Mckenzie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Mckenzie_(outlaw) .

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

Endless expanses in direction to Lake Tekapo.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-016 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-020 by Michael, auf Flickr

Left or right, good gravel travel.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

and for a better overview you can drive up to Mount John Observatory. Usually in a small traffic jam, because for all four-wheelers the costs are 8 dollar and the driveway is regulated, depending on traffic. With 6 cars in the row, I thought, it isn`t a good idea to overtake. The young gatekeeper apologizes for my waiting time, liked my kind of travelling and for 4 Dollar the bar swings in the vertical position.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-022 by Michael, auf Flickr

Watching at stars in broad daylight is rather suboptimal, so the kiwis have built a cake watching facility at Mount Jon.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-023 by Michael, auf Flickr

A picture is worth a thousand words.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-024 by Michael, auf Flickr

In that case, some are fake news, the view is great, but in the coffee mug is a ginger / honey tea and almost windless is also a lie. The massive number block made of wood has already blown into the abyss. Nevertheless, really quality cafe location with a view.

What number block? In New Zealand, it is common to order at the counter, get his number in the locality usual shape and then the food will be served.

Another last view from above on Lake Alexandrina and Tekapo.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-025 by Michael, auf Flickr

and on Motuariki Island

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-026 by Michael, auf Flickr

If there is a score for the most beautiful dead end, I would have a suggestion.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-028 by Michael, auf Flickr

At Lake McGregor I finish the tour

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-032 by Michael, auf Flickr

and build my fabric shelter on the local campground.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-029 by Michael, auf Flickr

The missing shower replaces the lake.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-030 by Michael, auf Flickr

While I'm standing at my tent after the spontaneous swimming and looking for an replacement for my wet pants, a Kiwi arrives on a DR 650 and starts a conversation, beautiful bike, where I`m going, why he drives again, how I like New Zealand ...... I like a kind conversation, but if possible with dry pants.

I had set myself up for a quiet, lonely evening under the unique starry sky, but unfortunately not aware that it was Friday and the locals are not averse to outdoor life. So the place filled slowly but surely, apparently most star gazers, so at least the peace was available.

Besides star gazers, fearless biscuit gazers were also looking for one or the other crumb.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-033 by Michael, auf Flickr

The Two Thumb Range has received some red colour.

Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-031 by Michael, auf Flickr

Slowly the first stars come to light, after all, this is one of the darkest places in the world. And they didn`t promised too much. Unfortunately, my pitiful photographing doesn`t justice the real thing.


Neuseeland 2018 003 Geraldine – Lake Mc Gregor-034 by Michael, auf Flickr

There are certainly professional pictures on the net, and guided tours and foto courses are also offered at the observatory. I settle for an hour to watch the spectacle in the sleeping bag, usuful at single-digit temperatures.

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 4: Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

Not much shade in the early morning and so the heat comes in and Michael out. The breakfast today is on the sparse side, leftover biscuits from the duck and apple juice. But again blue sky and nice views.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

Past Mt. John

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Head towards Lake Pukaki, where Mt. Cook throned over the lake end.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

Again a side road was chosen, where the kiwis have saved asphalt.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-007 by Michael, auf Flickr

But the route leads along the lake, not unsightly.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

My stomach tempts me to go north to Mt Cook Station.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

Unfortunately the station is private and there is nothing for hungry tourists. Next time, let the brain think.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

But it`s fun to gravel along the southern shore road.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-014 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

Actually, I wanted to get closer to Mt Cook and drive on the west bank to Mt. Cook Village, but that would be a 60 km dead end. Instead, I drove to Twizel and had a longer lunch break. After that, I had no desire to do 120 km round trip. Pretty stupid, because the area isn`t so often cloudless and the side trip worth it. Next time.

Instead, I follow my track to Lake Ohau. Unfortunately, my planning does not fit with reality and so I take the gravelroad at the south bank of the Ohau River back to the main road, which was quite fun.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

Next stop is in Omarama. Here I wanted to book a glider flight https://www.glideomarama.com, unfortunately bad weather was announced for the following day, bad timing. A KTM 690 was parked in front of the terminal and the driver was about to ascend, which was hindered by me. We can talk quietly in German was the response. Practically. He had rented the KTM for 2 weeks, next to my rental company. The catch is, the KTM is almost twice as expensive as the Tenere. Too bad. Still talking gasoline and about to finish the day at the near campground.

But after his info, the next days are very humid, the storm Gita http://www.dw.com/de/zyklon-gita-w%C3%BCtet-in-seuseeland/a-42654133 will hit the northern half of the South Island, in the south "normal" rain is expected .

I should looking for a permanent accommodation the next days. I break up and take the road to Queenstown. A short stop at the Clay Cliffs

https://www.tripadvisor.de/Attraction_Review-g609166-d1879946-Reviews-Clay_Cliff-Omarama_Canterbury_Region_South_Island.html

Nice, but for a hike in motorcycle clothes it is too warm.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

The journey continues on the 8, a great road over the Lindis Pass https://www.newzealand.com/de/feature/lindis-pass/ . I had no desire to stop and quickly move the Tenere around the curves, no photo stop.

End of the dream route through the high green hills in the background.

Neuseeland 2018 004 Lake Mc Gregor - Cromwell-022 by Michael, auf Flickr

In Cromwell, I enter again a Top 10 campground. My standard saying "I want to pitch a tent" leaded to a long conversation, the receptionist had German ancestors, so the tent had to wait a bit. Meanwhile, the weather was weakening, the first dark clouds appear and the wind was blowing faster.

Time to look after a permanent home near Queenstown. In the usual portals there were surprisingly little offers with "unbelievable" prices. Try out Airbnb, Bingo, Stacey still has a room for $ 50 to offer. Registration at Airbnb, not so easy to make a favorable picture with the phone in the dimly lit lounge. On the way to the tent, it starts to rain slightly, so a cozy noise lulls me to sleep.

Liking this Michael!

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 5: Cromwell – Lower Shotover

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

The rain has gone in the early morning, so I do. Queenstown is only about 80 km away and I start the day with a full breakfast and study the local press. Shortly before noon I fire up the Tenere and follow the 6 through the Kawarau Gorge.

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

Past the ancient Kawarau River Suspension Bridge, one of the first ways to descend into the abyss with a rope, something I never would do.

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

A short trip to Arrowtown

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

or should I have better leased the Yamaha there?

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

Looks antique in Kiwi land.

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

Cherry season is already over, I buy a bowl of plums and watch the other tourist.

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

Time to leave and driving to the B&& to stay there the next stormy days. Thanks to GPS finding unknown houses is no longer a problem, a nice house in a new settlement. The key is taken out of the safe and suddenly the urgent need to empty my bladder comes over me. As you know, motorcycle clothing isn`t the fastest thing when it comes to undress, but it's just done. Strange. I blame it on the overdose of prunes.

Hunger arrives and so I drive to the next pizzeria, where I eat the worst noodles of my life. Culinary, apart from the salmon at Mt Hutt, New Zealand could not convince me. Meanwhile, Stacey had come home and was making fresh pasta. Bad luck, no more hunger. Small talk with the young English woman, then it`s time to enjoy a normal bed.

The next day at noon it finally starts to wind and the promised rain starts. According to Stacey, a German pushbiker will arrive soon. Pushbike? In my mind's eye, I see an adult scooter. No one can be that crazy, Kiwiland with a scooter? Enlightenment, pushbike means bicycle. And in fact, he appears soon, about my age and since the beginning of January travelling with the bike from Auckland, respect.

At night, the rain has intensified and also the next morning, it plashes heavy, no thought to continue the ride. So continue killing pastime: Talk to the pushbiker, surf, read or get stolen the last brain cells by the New Zealand television. All this in the living room, the tent would be much more uncomfortable.

Neuseeland 2018 005 Cromwell – Lower Shotover-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

Apropo plashing, my bladder problems have worsened significantly, control is only conditionally and a little blood in the urine is also not good. Definitely time to visit a doctor. After a short consideration, it is probably the most useful thing to go back to Christchurch. I still feel fit, the Tenere would be back home and an international airport near by. No shipping over Lake Wakatipu, Mavora Lake, Milford Sound .... stupid, but they should be there next time.

Stage 6: Lower Shotover – Amberley

Neuseeland 2018 006 Lower Shotover – Amberley by Michael, auf Flickr

In the morning, finest weather is announced, sunshine, powdered mountains .... This raises the mood tremendously. I put the rain pants inside my trousers and put a towel around the family jewels. Together with the pushbiker I leave our home and embark on the 500 km tour. Under normal circumstances a dream ride. But sadly, at every refuel stop not only the tank was filled, I'm trying to make a neutral face.

I reach my rental company, there he is again, explain the problem and without hesitace Andrea tries to reach a doctor. But it's Friday afternoon in New Zealand and so we drive to Christchurch to a 24 hour clinic. https://www.24hoursurgery.co.nz/

Short written, 1 hour later, a doctor tells me that it is "just" a bladder infection, which could happen to older men, thanks for that, because the "entrance" can no longer be properly closed. I get antibiotic, Andrea drives us back and puts me in a motel in Amberley. Kiwis are very nice people.

I still keep the contaminated motorcycle pants on, get me plenty of beverage, rinse and so, carve me from an oversized beverage bottle a urine container, move to my accommodation and wait for the things that come. The next morning, the antibiotic seems to did their job. I wash my pants and other things, have a nice breakfast, go shopping, relaxing in the shade and roast a steak in the evening. I think the travel could be go on.

Michael, loving the report, pleased to hear your maladies were not show stopping.

Cheers

Shane

Great pictures Michael and very entertaining writing. Except for the last part of course.....
Vielen Dank!

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 7: Amberley – Hanmer Springs

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

All bodily functions were restored, I pick up the Tenere around noon and can continue the tour. Heading north to Hanmer Springs, starting point for the Rainbow Road http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/marlborough/places/molesworth-station/things-to-do / tracks / rainbow-road hanmer-springs-to-st-arnaud /


Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

Past large botany

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

small canyons

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

and again on rough ground

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

through the wood

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

and valley

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

through the Pyramid Valley

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

past the Waiau River

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

to Hanmer Springs.

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

On the way to the town I saw lot of old American or local cars, the Hanmar Motorfest http://www.falconfairlaneclub.co.nz/gallery.php?gallery=60&page=1 Unfortunately, the meeting was over, only a few oldies stood in the center.

It was just before 4 PM, too late to continue the ride on the Rainbow Road, the northern gate closes at 6 PM. 2 hours for 100 km on gravel, too sporty. I settled down in a small but nice city park with a drink on a bench, two E-bikes leaned against it, which were immediately removed from the owners. I used that as an excuse and forced them in a conversation. Pedelecs are also limited to 25 km/h in New Zealand, they were on a 2-week road trip, had been on the road in the Alps and Europe, boat trip from Basel to Rotterdam and of course known Cologne. Nice talking.

As we already know, the stores are closing at 5 PM. A good opportunity to go shopping, forgetting a belt and as usual a swimming trunk and a T-shirt as a souvenir. Swimsuits can be used here, a spacious spa with hotspots is available.

I pitch my tent at the local TOP 10 campground.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

Changing into leasure clothing, a few eye-catching vehicles were photographed

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Digitizing makes me hungry. The Fire and Ice Restaurant makes you well-fed.

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-020 by Michael, auf Flickr

Kiwis can also be humorous.

Neuseeland 2018 007 Amberley – Hanmer Springs-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 8: Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

Hurry with time, the biggest disadvantage when camping is the time dismantling or construction the camping gear. That's right, but as long as it's dry, it also can be relaxing. Ventilate the sleeping bag, let the tent get dry, search for a uselfull mattress deflating area, flat and firm as possible, remove the poles and fold them, pack the whole items. This is becoming routine and you have already moved a bit in the early morning.

I move to the small city center and take a rich breakfast. Who knows when I will get something to eat again. After all, I'm soon in no man's land, no mobile and no AA, only with snow and ice I'll probably get no problems.

Start to Rainbow Road http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/marlborough/places/molesworth-station/things-to-do/tracks/rainbow-road-hanmer- springs-to-st-arnaud /

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Over Jack's pass

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

you reach the valley of the Clarence River

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

and follow the river, accompanied by nobody except a few cattle gate and the power line.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

Close to Lake Tennyson, a few more signs of human life are recognizable, even though a few very old ones.

Memories, just twenty years ago.

USA_Colorado_046 by Michael, auf Flickr

OK, a XR 400 a bit lighter and with electric starter I would drive in modern times.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

Camping at Lake Tennyson is permitted, but it is too early and the weather is not on the friendliest side.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

Apropo friendly, a few 4WD riders from Christchurch had a little picnic and by the friendly kiwi, also the unknown motorcyclist from the other side of the world, is being treated with delicious pie. Ok, it was pie, but with egg and ham. After the first taste aberration quite delicious. But the brownie tasted like a brownie.

A little more weight means more grip, which was also needed at the Island Saddle, supposedly the highest "public" road in New Zealand.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

Attention, oncoming traffic.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

The downhill is just as steep as the uphill, until another cattle gate stops me, dismount, open, push, close, ascend, keeps you fit.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-014 by Michael, auf Flickr

The gravelroad accompanying stream is now the Wairau River,

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

but the river soon goes back into narrower territory.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

and follows a small gorge, where the route had probably suffered from the storm Gita.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-023 by Michael, auf Flickr

A series of river crossings follows, which were difficult to assess despite the clear water. For example, the Chinaman stream, contrary to its name, was deeper than expected.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-025 by Michael, auf Flickr

Unfortunately, I had removed my rain cover from the clothes, which led to increased moisture in and on the man. But I already knew that.

I reached the tollbooth, where you were allowed to offer $ 20 to the friendly dog and goat girl.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-026 by Michael, auf Flickr

The worst was behind you or rather said, the fun is over, I thought. A few curves later, however, I saw the last water passage, almost the mother of all streams, twice as wide and even here you could only guess the depth. After the Cologne motto "It`s allways gone allright" I plunged into the floods. About half a meter before the saving shore, the saying was refuted and the front wheel lost ground contact, which led to an almost maximum tilt.

I love the ROK straps, the luggage is quickly removed, the iron pig lifted from the hips, engine on and pushed to the shore. No problem with a little adrenalin. Any losses? The man is on the right side moister than usual, the boots could be dryer, the camera bag has withstood the floods and the side case is dry from the inside.

Only the Tenere looks offended, because the right direction indicator had to pay tribute to gravity and hang around loosely. Only an amputation and a bandage made of insulating tape helped.

Not a hundred yards away, the world is back asphalt, but a little rain shower goes down. The slightly damp undergarments are replaced with dry ones and the village of St Arnaud is reached. A solid accommodation would not be bad, but everything is occupied. There are a few nice campgrounds at Lake Rotoiti, according to the Visitor Center, there are still places available in the West Bay.

At the combi shop gas station / restaurant / mom and pop store, I get some food for the dinner and then pitched the tent in the woods.


Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-027 by Michael, auf Flickr

and just in time, the ranger appears, collects a small amount of money and set up a card.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-029 by Michael, auf Flickr

The weather can not decide between sunshine and thick clouds with a few drops.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-028 by Michael, auf Flickr

But I use a longer-term cloud gap for dinner, hang around in shorts at the lake, which I will still regret, and watch the seagrass grow.

Neuseeland 2018 008 Hanmer Springs – St Arnaud-031 by Michael, auf Flickr

Dark clouds and the dusk are good reasons to crawl into the sleeping bag. Checking the weather forecast, light rains are promised and this promise will be fulfilled soon. Learned what Kiwi light rainfall means and how to sleep well under a waterfall.

I am right behind you; well, not really! But I am reading along and enjoying your ride with words and photos. It is enjoyable!
I was there for three weeks in 2002 on a 650GS.

wow!! what a first page full of amazing photos.

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 9: St Arnaud – Ahaura

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

It is 9 AM and the "little" New Zealand rain is still pattering on the canvas. A good reason not to get up, the floor still keeps dry, the sleeping bag warms. Only 2 hours later, the drop frequency is lowering and the rain god ends his shift and is replaced by the sun god. Packing up a wet tent is always stupid, but not so tragic if it is unpacked soon. However, stupid are the sandflies that have decorated my legs yesterday.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

As long as you do not touch the wheals, it is ok, but at contact the itching begins again and it always comes back for several days.

Let's move to more enjoyable things, like Lake Rotoiti in the sunshine.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

From Lake Rotoiti it is not far to the neighbor, Lake Rotoroa. Breakfast with ducks.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

Water and sand, sandflies quickly find their way. I quickly flee to the landing stage with a table and bench.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

They do not fly that far, but some bikepackers are in need of a portrait with a lake. But they are also much more communicative than the flies. Small critters are not their problem, rather the big trucks on the narrow streets.

No big trucks on the Braeburn track, the only gravel road of the day. At the beginning, there are 4 warnings about watercrossings, which are no comparison to yesterday.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-007 by Michael, auf Flickr

Beautiful track through the jungle, slowly overtake the bikepacker. Glad I have an engine and with respect, I`ve been driving MTB for over 30 years.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

On the Mangels Valley Road, asphalt is the new gravel, but should I complain in this environment.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

Refuel in Murchison and follow the road along the Buller River.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

The Buller Gorge is a curvy dream, which ends turning south towards Reefton, then it lacks curves. You are in an old gold mining area and can make a short detour to Waiuta.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-011 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-014 by Michael, auf Flickr

I hear a familiar engine noise, the compatriot with the KTM 690 turns down the mountain, New Zealand is a small village. Depending on the late start, it's time to find a place to stay. Not so easy, I dont want to stay in the jungle.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

Schools out for summer.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-016 by Michael, auf Flickr

The community campground in Ahaura is the nearest one, but you are defenseless exposed to the elements. Good if the tent should dry, bad in storm and rain. Both are not in sight.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

Login and don`t forget to pay with a smile.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

The night can be spent quite calm, an outpost of the New Zealand Army is on site, equipped with German and Austrian products.

Neuseeland 2018 009 St Arnaud – Ahaura-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 10: Ahaura – Punakaiki

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

The common Kea is native in the Southern Alps, but the weather forecast is bad again. Without meeting this weird bird in the wild, I can not leave the island, the next opportunity is the Arthur Pass. So the Tenere gets some Gasoline. On that occasion the engine oil is checked, upps, since the last check the Tenere has taken a good sip. But how does the fluid come in the round? No funnel available, but an old milk carton and good opinel knife solve the problem.

My planned route to the pass runs on a Scenic tourist route, again well chosen. Only the weather stays cloudy and so Lake Brunner remains relatively colorless.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-002 by Michael, auf Flickr

Arthur is approachin.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-003 by Michael, auf Flickr

The pass road is sometimes steep, but not so exciting to motorbike.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

But it is clearly Kea Land.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

At Arthur Pass I get the long wanted breakfast, but the temperature is not porch ready and no birds in sight, too bad.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-007 by Michael, auf Flickr

According to the sign, they seem to come here more often.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

Wait, even during the shooting, I notice a shadow that seems to be attracted to my bottle.

Who, I?

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-009 by Michael, auf Flickr

His partner uses the coffee cream, Keas can't read no feed signs.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

Tüdelü, I'm just waiting for my buddy.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

There he is.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

Come closer and your lens is history.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

Now, common departure.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-016 by Michael, auf Flickr

In the opposite direction, the pass isn't more exciting, but the south bank of Lake Brunner is.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

Taking this picture, I disturb two female rangers during their lunch break and forced them into a conversation. Unfortunately no photo, but maybe emigration and rangers will be an option. From Lake Brunner it is not far to the west coast and Greymouth. North of it, the Pacific Ocean along the coastal road 6 becomes interresting.

The south side of Motukiekie Beach does not look so dramatic due to the weather.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-020 by Michael, auf Flickr

but I can change this camera-technically.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-022 by Michael, auf Flickr

In the north, the beach is accessible at low tide and a grateful photo opportunity.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-023 by Michael, auf Flickr

more drama

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-024 by Michael, auf Flickr

or less

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-025 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-026 by Michael, auf Flickr

or more

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-028 by Michael, auf Flickr

brick

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-030 by Michael, auf Flickr

Talking about bricks, tomorrow rain is announced again, a solid accommodation would be very nice. In Punakaiki there are not many choices. The Punakaiki Tavern & Motel had rooms left, but $ 130, ok for a double bed, but at the moment the benefits of a double are rather low. The owner gave me an overview at the remaining accommodation. And five minutes later I found something in the neighborhood.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-048 by Michael, auf Flickr

At Punakaiki Beach Hostel http://www.punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz almost was booked up, only a small house for $ 70 was still available. House?

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-032 by Michael, auf Flickr

Perfect, what do I want more? Private patio, perfect view at the Pacific. Ok, it only has a rechargeable LED light, electricity and everything the body needs, you can get in the main house.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-031 by Michael, auf Flickr

In the Punakaiki Tavern http://www.punakaikitavern.co.nz , 5 minutes walking along the damaged by storm Gita promenade, you can satisfy your hunger. The tavern could be described as a saloon or pub depending on your taste, but definitely rustic. The food reconciles me with the New Zealand cuisine, delicious mussels, salmon and black beer. Satisfied, I went back to my house on the beach.

Ha, I know this place.....been there back in 1996 when I was travelling in NZ for some weeks following a similar route and I have only best memories to this tour. If I ever need to emigrate , this country would be also my first choice.

Greetings from the neighborhood Dortmund, Germany

At night, the predicted rain said hello, but said goodbye in the late morning or slightly drizzled away.

It's only a short walk to the Pancake Rocks.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-033 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-034 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-038 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-042 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-041 by Michael, auf Flickr

A worthwhile trip, but you are not alone, guaranteed. A suitable lunch, I recommend the pancakes in the Pancake Rocks Cafe. From the pancakes it is all downhill, digesting on the pateo with music on the ears.

Sport is scheduled for the afternoon and in the Paparoa National Park there are 3 hours of trails through the rainforest http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/west-coast/places/ paparoa-national-park / things-to-do / tracks / punakaiki-area-walks / . The plan is to hike 1.5 km hike along the road to the start, the end is almost at the hostel, perfect temperature, shorts and T-Shirt do the job. At the entrance a note is nailed .... and again foiled Orkan Gita my plans, because of fallen trees etc. the trails are closed.

Back over the damaged road

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-044 by Michael, auf Flickr

I'll take a look how serious the kiwis mean the blockage.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-047 by Michael, auf Flickr

Serious.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-046 by Michael, auf Flickr

Back to the pateo and

to sparrows

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-049 by Michael, auf Flickr

extraterrestrial plants

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-050 by Michael, auf Flickr

roping on the beach

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-053 by Michael, auf Flickr

no traffic on the beach

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-055 by Michael, auf Flickr

and mourning gulls.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-056 by Michael, auf Flickr

Kiwi weather forecast

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-054 by Michael, auf Flickr

Even the Icelander won't leave this place.

Neuseeland 2018 010 Ahaura – Punakaiki-057 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland titel eng by Michael, auf Flickr

Stage 11: Punakaiki – Mapua

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-000 by Michael, auf Flickr

No camping, fast start, but I could stay at my "house" 5 days, preferably with sun, which disappeared since three days. Driving along the Pacific coast is not a bad start either.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-001 by Michael, auf Flickr

At the pancake rocks, the Pacific has not shown very lively, he can do better.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-005 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-006 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-004 by Michael, auf Flickr

And there is no better way to start the day with a nice ride along the coastal road.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-008 by Michael, auf Flickr

Before heading east near Westport, I visit a few seals at Cape Foulwind,

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-010 by Michael, auf Flickr

at Tauranga Bay

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-012 by Michael, auf Flickr

and take some kind of breakfast.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-013 by Michael, auf Flickr

Towards east, there are two paths, the Buller River Gorge or the Denniston Track, an old mining trail. North of Westport the road is winding up the hill into the mining area and the entrance looks good

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-015 by Michael, auf Flickr

but after that the track get's very rocky.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-016 by Michael, auf Flickr

Adventurous, but alone and through a really remote area ..... the GPS promises two major river crossings. And as I know the kiwis, the bridges could only be promised. I turn around and take the curvy road along the parallel Buller Gorge, not the badest decision.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-017 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-018 by Michael, auf Flickr

Always along the river, the valley widens

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-019 by Michael, auf Flickr

in Kawatiri I follow the river of the same name and took the State Highway 6 to my destination in Nelson, but I still don't know where I am going to settle tonight. The weather is still on the dark side of the power, I renounce the more attractive planned tracks and find myself quickly in the Nelson rush hour. Annoyed by so much traffic, I literally turn off, strive northward and stopped in Mapua.

Pretty nice, I think, enter the supermarket, get me some nerve food and check the weather forecast. For tomorrow, the dark power sends rain over the land again. Ok, a permanent home would be an advantage, time for a nice B & B, I noticed this sign near the road.


Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-022 by Michael, auf Flickr

But what does Puffed mean? Aha, short of breath. A quality that I can not deny after the last year. And the absence of pedals, I can certainly talk away.

So I turn into the narrow driveway and my arrival isn't unnoticed by the landlady. The removal of the helmet generates a brief communication disruption, but yes, she also picks up motorized two-wheelers and their owners for $ 90. Ok, after 390 km, I do not think twice.

I seem to look a bit tired, she provides me with a tea and shows me my room, with flat screen TV and kitchenette, I can't complain,

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-020 by Michael, auf Flickr

and the way to the refreshing shower.

Quickly disposed the motorcycle clothing on the pateo

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-021 by Michael, auf Flickr

and showered. Meanwhile, the landlord Paul has arrived and wants to enlighten me about the possibilities of food intake in the village. Which means I'm sitting next to him in the car, we're making the tour of Mapua. The small harbor is surrounded by about ten restaurants.

A difficult choice, the winner was the Apple Shad Cafe with his

Green-lipped mussels with coconut, lemongrass, chilli and coriander

Cider tempura battered gurnard served with fries, tartare and slaw.

Chocolate and caramel parfait with layers of chocolate oreo, mochaccino mousse, mascarpone topped with caramel popcorn

After this meal, I just had to come back to Paul's taxi offer. Did I mention that, nice, New Zealander and so on? Goodnight.

The next morning, the promised rain splatters and the clouds do not change until late in the afternoon.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-023 by Michael, auf Flickr

This time I am strolling on my own power to the harbor.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-038 by Michael, auf Flickr

Kiwi Christmas trees are bigger as usual,

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-024 by Michael, auf Flickr

and after 15 minutes reaching the harbor, where I am eagerly awaited.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-028 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-025 by Michael, auf Flickr

A bit early for dinner, so I'm sitting at the bay.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-026 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-030 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-032 by Michael, auf Flickr

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-033 by Michael, auf Flickr

Slowly the stomach announces itself, what do we eat or drink today? Maybe smoked salmon on the spot

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-035 by Michael, auf Flickr

In the Rimu Wine Bar, I tasted some, surprise, wines before the winner was married to a small but very tasty pizza.

Neuseeland 2018 011 Punakaiki – Mapua-037 by Michael, auf Flickr

This time I renounce the taxi and use the way as a digestive walk. A little chat with Paul, he builds houses, has never left New Zealand and confirms the Denniston Track wasn't a good idea, no bridge, the water passage is usually half a meter deep. The planned tour into the Abel Tasman National Park is canceled, because the main street was spilled by my girlfriend Gita. So I choose another target, the French Pass in the Marlborough Sounds, shouldn't be ugly.