Cyclops Adventure Sports- Performance lighting, TPMS, Rally kits, etc. merge thread

Thanks for everyone's patience while we went through the recent Cree emitter shortage and rolling out several new bulbs. most all products are back in stock and backorders are nearly filled, we should be completely caught up by friday afternoon. Thank you!

I have an XR400R that has a stock stator and wiring harness, which means there's no rectifier and only AC voltage being produced.

I converted the bike to running a H4 bulb for the sole reason to run a Cyclops H4 LED bulb on the bike. I never got around to buying the rectifier required to run the bulb on my AC system, but I've run LED bulbs ( w/ CREE emmitters) on this bike in the past, so I got curious and gave it a shot last night. The bulb works perfect.

So, why do I need a rectifier? What am I missing? Thanks!

I also have one of these H4 bills in my FZ07. It's the best money ever spent on a bike- period. Love this thing.

LED = Light Emitting Diode. A diode is a rectifier. An LED is designed to be forward biased and emit light. It is not designed to be reverse biased but if it is it does not emit light. DC applied in the correct polarity results in the LED constantly emitting light. AC applied to an LED results in it emitting light half the time and being dark half the time but it happens too rapidly for you to see it. In other words it is not shining as brightly as it could. Also since the LED is not designed to be reverse biased there is a risk that the reverse voltage will cause it to break down and be damaged.

@bmwroadsterca Thank you for the awesome, thorough and logical explanation. Since I'm happy with the output now, I'm gonna go ahead and rock it on my camping trip this weekend, then I'll focus on getting the proper rectifier in place to guard the "bulb". Hopefully it'll withstand a couple days/ hours of abuse to get me through this trip.

If the LED you have also has a driver then the driver could be at risk as well. My earlier response assumed no driver. What happens when you expose the driver to AC depends on its design.

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And yet a further thought...

If the H4 bulb connector is non-polarized (you can plug it in either way) it is likely that the driver has been designed to accept either polarity. In this case the end result is that the AC ends up getting rectified by the driver and what gets passed through is a pulsed DC. In this case the brightness would be much better than just half and may well be indistinguishable from full brightness.

Thanks Guys I was locked out for a few weeks with forgotten password email issues etc what a mess.

If you run a cyclops bulb on AC power it may fire up and run for a short period of time. It will fail, go up in smoke etc.. DON'T DO IT! DC is mandatory and why that info is noted on the bulb.

Not for long.. It will fail.. do not run the bulb on AC power. I can not stress this enough..

I completely understand, and thanks for the reply. Will it last a few hours to get me through a pinch, or is it just a straight up gamble? Does the rectifier just plug in-line with the standard H4 style plugs?

Is there any way to rush ship the rectifier I need to 24122?

p.s. Not to be a jerk, just customer feedback, but it's kind of annoying that I have to pay double price for a rectifier now that I'm using this product on a different bike than I originally bought it for, versus the $19.99 it would have cost me if I had purchased the rectifier originally. Honestly, that left a bad taste in my mouth and is why I kind of let this project slide to the backburner in the first place. No offense intended, just my point of view.

It could and most likely will fri in seconds Dont do it!!!! The rectifier does plug in between the two H4 connectors.
Yes on the shipment, call the shop.
Sorry you feel that way, There are reasons why that is done, we give cyclops customers a break on the rectifier(and just about everything else). We do not support chinese bulbs or competitors so our proprietary rectifier is more if not ordered with a bulb. That's smart business.
Sometimes things are not what they may appear on some commercial website, Communication can be your friend.

All you need to do is pick up the phone and make a call and we would offer the rectifier at the same price as you would have bought as a "kit" Because you are an existing customer..You know the old fashioned face to face way? . Now I have a bad taste in my mouth :) just kidding ..

Yeah, I wasn't talking about using your rectifier with a "Chinese bulb". I bought two of your bulbs, but didn't have a need for the rectifier when I initially purchased the bulbs. Perhaps I didn't make that clear initially. I'm self employed and understand that communication with customers is paramount. I'm always open and happy to hear feedback from my customers.

I dont think you understood me.. so sorry about that..

No problem. A lot gets lost in translation on these forums. These H4 bulbs you sell are awesome. I have actually bought four of them. Bought two of them second hand and gave them to buddies. I got my hands on the proper rectifier ( I had site credit with RMATV and somehow they always deliver to my house within a day,) and made the trip with the 3800 lumen H4 in my XR400. Two guys commented on how bright my headlight was and asked about it. Naturally, I sent them your way.

I'm still having trouble getting much difference between low and high beam. One bike does ok, but on one bike I can't tell hi from low at all. But low beam throws out so much light that I'm still getting more light than my stock bulb on high ever put out (FZ07). These things are awesome!

It's been a while, but I believe I got the bulb to seat properly, with the driver ziptied up outside the shell. I like the color and intensity, but the pattern seemed pretty diffuse. And now it has started to flicker. Any idea what I should be looking for? Can't seem to find any loose connections. What next?

HI Mark I had a hard time finding the original post so I am not sure what bike we are talking about. The last generations of bulbs used a flat 5 pin connection at the driver box, occasionally this connection can work loose, try unplugging this connection and make sure all wires are fully pushed up and making good contact. If there is an issue we stand behind the product and will take care of any issues during the warranty period.
Quicker tech support can be found by emailing info@cyclopsadventuresports.com

Thanks - it is a 2005 Triumph Sprint ST. H7 high beam. I'll take anything else to the other email. Thanks again for the tips.

You bet anytime.. also check the bikes plug out, wiggle that around etc looking for a flicker..often a intermittent issue will be on the bike side. heat from the factory halogen bulbs cook the plastic connectors and cause issues.

It's been awhile since we posted about this product, still going strong on all our test mules. We have seen very few issues. Like I have always said you do not have to buy ours (although I hope you do ) but consider one from any vendor. I really do feel, in fact I know, that it can save your bacon, as it has done mine many times.

Howdy, interested in a unit. I would like to see a better picture of the back of the unit and the way it mounts.

I’m looking forward to installing mine.....it’s peace of mind for me.


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