I asked a long while back (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/2009-gs-adv-aux-light-switch-replacement.1027682/) about the ease in replacing the aux light switch... in the time that passed it went from intermittent to just plain not working. So I ordered a new one, installed it, and set about to seeing what what wrong with the old one. The top of the switch is held on by a pair of posts on the base of the unit. You can see the lighter gray poking through. Since I already had a working one on the bike I didn't care if I ruined this one completely in tearing it apart (but, as you'll see, I actually fixed it). The base of the top has a spring-loaded plunger that provides the positive detents for the unit. In my case it didn't at all want to spring apart. It was quite content to sit there until I pulled it apart. The base had a plunger than matches the cutout in the top of the switch. Which then pushes a tac switch that's buried in the base surrounded by a rubber sleeve. The problem I was having was that even in the "switched on" position the actual microswitch in the unit wasn't getting pressed down enough to make contact. Solution: I grabbed an 0805 capacitor I had around (no, you can use anything, this was just convenient for me... heck a small blob of epoxy is more than enough) Essentially, all you need to do is make the plunger have a little bit more reach to get to the microswitch on the bottom. Once you get solid contact, you have a fully working switch again. Problem: Solved! And now I have a spare switch I'll likely never need. I guess it's like insurance... another part to never break -- and I'd be able to fix the new one just as easily too. Oh well.
The internet is amazing! I had the same problem with my R1200GS ADV switch. Today I solved it as shown above! (My switch is not as dirty as yours, though. LOL!) Thanks for the nice work. Much appreciated.
Thanks for posting this Vec. I was wondering how you got your switch out of the housing. I have mine off the main bracket on from the handle bars. However, I haven't figured out how to get the switch free from the outer housing. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance.
I know its years later, but thanks for the tip guys - repaired my switch (which wouldn't stay on) with a piece of guitar pickup, cut out with scissors and snapped into recess in the plastic actuator, didn't even need glue. (tried to add photo but wouldn't upload)
I haven’t taken my switch apart yet. But in preparation for the repair, I’m wondering how far above the rim of the ‘plunger’ the capacitor extends. I’m probably just going to use a drop of epoxy. How thick is the capacitor?Could it also work if the end of the plunger was just ‘filled up’ with epoxy and had a slight meniscus rising above the rim? Or is the needed amount less than would fill up the end of the plunger?
You really need to just take it apart and look at it. The pictures above make everything look huge compared to real size. I used a piece of guitar pick and had trouble cutting it small enough! I think you could just use epoxy but I felt better with the pick.
More on this subject https://advrider.com/f/threads/hexhead-r1200gs-a-fog-lamp-switch-repair.1433998/
I just did this repair on Sunday. I would say the earlier post showing the guitar plectrum cut and moulded to slightly extend the plunger gives the best indication of what’s required here. However I don’t play the guitar but cut up the tiniest piece of plastic I could find and fixed it to the end of the plunger. Now my piece of plastic extends further than the plectrum leaving me in a spotlights on all the time scenario but I’m happy with that. In fact that was my goal. The area of greatest difficulty for me was fitting the actual thumb switch back on as I had done so much jacking with the screw driver to release the inner switch from the housing that the sides which house the poles had contracted inwards and therefore were not catching the holes on either side of the thumb switch. I rectified this by building a plastic strut from wall to wall within the inner housing. Worked a treat and the thumb switch just clicked into place then. I’m a guy who changing a bulb could cause pandemonium around here. The dog hides when I take a screwdriver to the bike. Very fixable this. Glad I came across the thread here. My local mechanic just shrugged his shoulders when I asked him to have a look at it. Good luck and lock up the dog
Great thread ! I fixed it today on my BMW R1200GS 2012 (air cooled). The plunger square head was broken, though, so I had to kind of fill the little space in the switch button itself to ensure a proper balance/pressure on the plunger. I used blue ziploc lids cut-offs as thin shims for both plungers ends: it works ! BTW the part is now close to 200$ (see link), so the hints shared here are gold. Thx ! ps: the part cost: https://shop.bmw-motorrad.ca/p/BMW__R/Switch-additional-headlight/49489888/61317694815.html
Brilliant! My 2011gsa was doing the same. I pretty much leave it on all the time for visibility and it became intermittent and finally wouldn’t come on at all. Not interested in throwing close to $200 at a switch, so heading out to the garage now to see if I can make this fix. Thanks!
Update: I was able to get the switch disassembled following the excellent advice given by Vec and others. Before making any mods, I experimented with the micro switch and found that even with the switch depressed the lights would not come on but would flicker a bit, so I sprayed the micro switch with CRC electrical contact cleaner and blew it out with compressed air. The switch then started working with a much more defined click and the lights were reliably coming on and staying on when the rocker was reinstalled. Reassembled everything and lights are working reliably with no mods. Hopefully it’ll stay fixed for another 65k miles but if not I’ll know what to do. Thanks again.
