I know a few have had the air filter retention tab pull out. Mine is still holding perfectly in both bikes but the rubber bushing finally fell apart in the blue bike. 132 hours and the red has 120. I think it’s a matter of pulling the tab too hard on the other ones where the pin bent out. I push the filter cage with my fingers to seat it inward and down above the tab, then just rotate the tab over the pin. The force is only on the filter cage. No stress on the tab or it’s steel pin hinge. Anyway, the rubber is the same bushing used on the air box covers. It’s Kawazukimaha level rubber IMO (meh), and thankfully the KTM $2.00 rubbers are silicone like and they are an exact fit. Press in the longer tab on the rubber first, then a light squeeze with pliers sets the bead of the bushing in the plastic tab. Before with failed bushing and after with KTM pn on the bag.
So I got the green light from my better half to order the TSE250. pic for my current bike and will understand the curiosity I have been experiencing when reading about the TSE. I see alot of KDX comparisons when TSE is talked about. Not compared to a KDX/KX Hybrid though. I have been contemplating selling the Hybrid and adding $$ to get a 17+ 300 XCW. Doing the TSE I am paying more $ up front but get to keep the Hybrid. Why wouldn't I want to keep it, it's freaking awesome. Just wondering what everyone's break in period was like for the TSE? Any reason not to use Amsoil Interceptor oil for the oil injection system? When looking for KTM/Husky parts, what year and model should I be looking for? I like the look of the Husky headlight and front fender. Just doing some last minute research to be sure I am making the right decision. I am not a racer, just a guy who enjoys ripping the PA woods on a dirtbike.
My TSE engine lives in Wally World marine oil and 87 pump. I’ve had the one apart at 100 hours, it’s not any worse for the cheap oil or fuel. Any 2017 125-501 KTM/Husky for typical parts. From the rubbers I noted above to body parts, brake pads, etc. The front sprocket is a Yamaha size (RMATV has a TSE parts listing page online) but the rest is KTMUSKY. Good luck with the new bike! Post up about it when you have time!
I’d run it around the block a few times at lighter load but not free revving if that makes sense, medium load the engine, shift at medium RPM for ten minutes or so. Then go frikkin nuts! I’d suggest going richer on jetting if you are at sea level-1000’ first. You won’t hurt it stock but it’s #1. still clean and #2 it’s weak compared to what it should be when it’s jetted correctly. The Heingeng (sp?) oil in the crate is fine to burn in the auto luber and the tranny oil is fine too. Don’t flush it out first as used to be the case with many bikes. It’s fine to ride on awhile.
I've got a spreadsheet on my site listing a pile of interchangeable parts. http://andrewgore.net/1163 I don't know if you're running the stock "TMX" carb, or the updated PWK, but if the TMX, I highly suggest the jetting setup I had on mine. The Yamaha\WR200 Needle Jet really made the bike behave so much cleaner, and allowed the use of correctly marked Mikuni Main Jets. I'd have to go back through this thread to see where I'm at jetting wise. Top Tip....take better jettings notes than me. Mine might need a new battery. Been sitting a weee bit too long. I did fix a clicky steering though. The steering stem was VERY loose. I also fixed my stripped seat bolt this weekend too. The stock threads were goobered up, so I ran a tap through to clean them. I then pulled the insert out, drilled a through hole in the seat pan, then JB-Welded the threaded insert in location. I then added a second retention bolt to the backside of the insert. I think it'll be solid now.
Decided to drop in the Keihin again. The Mikuni is as I recalled and in my old mountain trails Id Shirley leave it in. Having to brapp into a whoops section without that midrange smack of power was frustrating though. Tomorrow’s trails session it will be Keihin carby and 12/53 to see if I can get the walking speed response I like but not lose the snappy hit. Getting third closer to second would be nice too. At 12/52 third was sweet in ST turn track stuff but when you needed a instant blast to seat bounce into a whoop section it just didn’t have it, too tall a gear. Happiness is an unbroken bike in many pieces!
My keihin setup has great low end feeling. Maybe you need to put the oil injectums back on and embrace the 100:1 at low throttles.
Been in there for ~4 months. I haven't ridden any woods woods, but had no issues on any trialsy type stuff I did with it.
Another trail day, Keihin carb is back in, AER forks up front, Michelin fr/rr are new. 12/53 gearing gives me a nicer front end pop for wheelies, logs and pivot turns. Second pulls from near dead stopped too, the 53 will probably stay.
Decided to experiment on clutch pull lever ratios. The TSE250R clutch pull is incredibly light and the levers are great for smaller hands. The light pull comes at a cost though, lever travel. This is great for less experienced riders. It makes the friction zone of the clutch lever very wide and easy to manipulate. I decided to reduce the lever arm length in the engine case to get a full clutch release further from the bars. Excuse the hack job but it works! I will be modding another stock arm by simply relocating the cable attachment. The measurements are from center of the rivit for the cable clip to the center of the clutch lever shaft. By reducing the length of the lever, the action is much shorter but on the other side of the equation, the effort goes up. As it sits with the shortest lever length, it’s just a hair harder pull than a 2018 SXF350 and is fully disengaged by about half the distance of stock at the hand lever. More testing next week.
The stocker may just lend itself to that with a few holes drilled and a nut n bolt. See how the cable angle looks as I go a bit deeper on this one.