I will get some pix up, waiting on some better detailed ones. it looks like she got a salt bath before she was put away 5 years ago. I am looking at this for my daughter, she is busting my onions to teach her to ride... ( I am reluctant from what I see on the road every day (( I tell her, I can teach you to ride, but not how to stay alive (. IDK what I would do if she got hurt..( Not new to the BMW gig, I have & had have several including the 450X. here are some of the current herd Thanks
My G650GS has a Chinese assembled motor, bought it at 55k kilometer, now at 80k kilometer and never missed a beat. Same with my X-Country but it is not at that milage yet. To be honest I'm more worried about all the Italian parts on the bike!
+1 Just had to replace rear rotor to pass inspection was 0.41mm below minimum at 21k.. oh wait it isn't Italian my bad.
Wow a lot of activity in a very short period of time here. I second Duchgit, E07 Dakar is a very good tire, and not hard to mount. Also if someone is interested i have a original BMW windshield + subframe leftover from my brother bike, but i consider that the best windshield is that: https://www.radegarage.com/parts/ktm-690-fairing-kit/ And is fairly easy to adapt.
So as it turns out, the rear 130/80-17 is an E-07+ after all even though the non-plus was ordered. It has one hell of a stiff sidewall and I'm thinking that if I do get a flat I will probably never know it. I will certainly not be able to fix a flat trailside so I guess I'll just have to carry some Slime and pay the price of that afterwards. Or maybe just ride out on the flat. The front 100/90-19 is fine (non=plus, non Dakar) but I have never gotten a flat front tire on a motorcycle that I can recall. I'm not good/fast/hard enough of a rider to air down. I had a time of it taking the wheels off the bike. The axle nuts were so tight I had to use my motorcycle jack handle for extra leverage. One of the front axle pinch bolts was corroded and snapped off at the transition to the threaded portion. I was using a 1/4" drive ratchet and did not turn it the wrong way. Luckily, it looks like the bolts that secure the cover for the ABS sensor on the rear swingarm are the same (if it's on my non-ABS bike). I ordered two of them along with an OEM 15T XChallenge countershaft sprocket to replace the aftermarket 14t that's on the bike now. Hopefully the splines will be ok. There is also some wear on the spacers but I think they'll be ok for now. Should I lubricate them on reassembly? I can't recall. I may order some of the stainless steel Scheffelmeier Metall spacers at some point. The cush rubbers seemed a little - gummy? So I'll replace them but clean these up and save them for later.
Once I had a flat on E07 Dakar rear on Strom.. only realized when bike started feel funny at 70mph; pulled over it had 10psi. Mitas sidewalls are really stiff I ran 32/32 on pavement on big bikes and 17/25 now on Superdual which about 35lbs heavier than XCo.. if you run more they became fiddly, loose grip and wear faster.. just saying. My 140/80 is coming soon haven't decided on front yet.. too bad AW doesn't come 100/90.
They do come in 110/80 which should work just fine. However then you would have a radial front and a belted rear. IDK how significant that is.
Ended up getting E-10 for $72 shipped so the same sizes like on Superdual. Also ordered 3M tape and valves $20 on Amazon to seal rims.
@K12Pilot you can probably remote most of it with penetrating oil/steel wool and elbow grease.. then touch-up with engine paint where needed and rust converter on steel parts. I would be more concerned with the electric connectors but then there aren't many which could have gotten exposed and dialectic grease is cheap. Hope you are getting a good deal there are not many of them left around.
@K12Pilot , shame to see a bike neglected like that Hope you got a good deal on it! In the end it appears to be mostly cosmetic damage so a weekend's worth of touch-up work should go a long way. Enjoy it!
I am thinking the same thing.. Although the header flange bolt over the starter & a couple head bolts look real crusty ((. take a look see, Also the fuel system is going to need a GOOD go through also. I am hoping for $12-1500 ish considering parts prices on Max and A&S.
I just got mine inspected for registration and all she needed was rear brake pads and rotor. Pads were cheap (FA213 listed as direct replacement but FA208 will fit) ceramic from Sixity $8 shipped but unfortunately most places list rear rotor interchangeable with 650GS.. and it is not. Haven't found any china sources so EBC MD810C $130 it was. Still cheaper than $318 OEM. If you decide to get engine guards for new rider Twisted Throttle has SW Motech for $134 on sale good luck.
try scrubbing it with a stiff bristle brush and a solution of dish soap and white vinegar. That should eat through a lot of the corrosion (which is most likely alkaline in nature).
congrats. curious to hear how much you paid for it. love to see the progress of this project. looks not too bad at all.
NSFW possibly this weekend )) other than a good bath and a scrubbing fuel flush and maybe a quick push of the button to see if it’ll run as is. I probably won’t get to this until next year for the spring I have too many bikes on tables right now that I need to do some serious work to
I have one; not touratech generic the one you find on fleeBay/Amazon for $15-25. Does it work? Well sort of.. it takes wind off the chest but it isn't sufficiently high there's enough getting in under helmet and I am 5'5". Stock windscreen is too short for spoiler make real difference and it is too flimsy it will crack soon as you get off smooth pavement you would need to take top part off. Anyone knows if R1200R has the same hole spacing? I need sturdier taller windshield.