I thought this is where the nitrogen charge went in (at the top) (This was on the back in the other photo)
You are right! The rebound adjuster on your shock looks different to the one of the product photo. Does it click if you turn it in or out? If yes , then it´s the rebound adjuster and YSS has changed the style. If you order MZ456-TRL-05 you should still have the rebound adjuster, it´s not an option. Does the label on the shock diplaying a different number? You can ask YSS directly to get an answer from the manufacturer. https://www.yss.co.th/product-detai...brand=11&model=1832&year=2016&keyword=&page=1 This one should be received. It looks the length adjuster is also missing? I´m a bit curious about the "-x" on the label on the unit they send you. I can´t find the option on the web. Seems they send you the wront part. Looking at the part number MZ456-420TRL-05-X: M- Rear Mono shock Z- Emulsion gas shock 456 - Piston 45mm shaft 16mm 420 - 420mm length of shock TRL - Threaded Spring preload, Rebound adjuste, Length adjustment 05 - Spec sheet number X - ?????????????? (not listed!!)
I've seen adjusters small which take a screw driver before but they are always labeled with an arrow and a + - direction. I searched E Bay and saw where one company is selling the shock without the Damping adjuster knob and another selling it with, both have the same part number. Puzzling to say the least. Without= https://www.ebay.com/c/22020969618 With= https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-CRF2...140924?hash=item2ac1729efc:g:76YAAOSwvNVcOtXy
The screw turns with a distinct click, and it does have the length adjuster. That is located above the nitrogen charging port. I sent a question to yss about the "-x". Ill see what they say. But other than that all numbers seem to check out. And it sure seems like that screw is rebound adjust. Also spring rate is marked as 56-85N/mm which is progressive from 5.71-8.67kg/mm. Which i think is inline with what the rally needs. (Rt puts me at a 7.28kg/mm) Overall shock looks well manufactured and is free of blemishes. I will pull my shock tomorrow and compare side by side to check lengths and such, but I feel confident it is correct.
you have recieved a generic one does all ...bad instruction leaflet .... the top bit with the black lock nut is the height adjuster ..somewhere in there it will give a maximun adjustment if needed the top bit with the screw is not for use leave that alone the coller at the top of the spring is the preload adjuster there will be a smal grub screw /lock screw that needs undoing ..when you install the shock make sure that grub screw is loosened off or easily accessable from the left side of the bike the bottom one with the screwdiriver slot is the rebound adjuster righty tighty l/efty loosy your spring rate is on the spring as a general rough guide heavier guys over 165lbs and /or with luggage will need a 100nm spring ... the 56 is not spring rate its the inside diameter of the spring itself .it looks like you have a 85nm spring id guess you have 56/85/215 marked ? 56 ineer diameter 85 spring rate nm 215 spring length i got one a few months ago aafter converting the L to rally linkages ..the rebound valving was not correct with the heavy spring so check it slows down well on full adjustment when you install it ..i ended up having mine re shimmed /stiffebned up for 70 quid ..but the shock is still a very good unit when its set up it rides very well fully rebuldable and easily serviced for reasonble money ..i know pleanty of lads who have had em put on and they hold up well under heavy prolonged use see how it goes when you ride it and take it from there
Decided to go for red fork protectors to match the red handguards, as I like the old XL mainly red look. Left guard £4.50 from Bikerz Bits (+£10 delivery). Bikerz Bits do not do the ABS version of the guard, so I had to get this from the local Honda dealer. Right guard £55.75 from Honda UK (+£20 fitting, as I don't have a stand to remove the front wheel). How do they justify the price difference? The price of the right guard (as you look at the bike) is what put me off swapping to red a year or so ago, but I got a little bit of unexpected money and so went for it.
Take the time to set the sag correctly with the correct spring for your weight and be prepared to run the rebound and comp softer than you would think. I'd consider myself a 10/10 rider at least on this machine and a couple clicks passed halfway on the soft side is amazing.
Asking for a non-inmate buddy. What is the appropriate front and rear tube size? He is wanting to use standard tubes in case he flats on the trail.
90/90-21 front 120/80-18 rear I would run heavy duty in both. But, 18" version of up to 140/80, 140/90 size will fit in the rear of the bike. So anyone carrying around that size will work in the rear. Any 80/100, 90/100 in 21" sizes will work in the front as well.
Got the shock mounted up no issues! Thanks for the great info! Very helpful. I am about 165-170 with gear so I think I will stick with this spring for now! Also anyone running the racetech front spring... how many preload washers did you put in for your weight/riding style? Trying to get an idea where to start.
That is the exact same shock I got (and the the rest of the guys who bought that part number afaik). The gold-looking screw at the bottom IS the rebound damping adjuster. This shock has no compression damping adjustment, only pre-load with the screw ring at the top of the spring and rebound damping at the bottom. When you fit the shock, make sure the adjuster is on the right side of the bike so you can see it and get to it easily with the bike on the side-stand for adjustment. Ask me how I know that... I took my bike to the local enduro bike builder and he turned the adjuster three clicks anti-clockwise (from memory) and, just as he predicted, it totally altered the bike in the bumpy bends on the way home, banishing the pogo effect. YMMV but give it a twirl and see what happens. Brian
I like the look Now then, with an asking price of £20 for fitting I would have gone this route... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/383324203655 ...and told Thunder Road where to go and solved the access problems once and for all. Brian
Not in the slightest. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1317003-thoughts-on-my-cogent-dynamics-suspension/?utm_source=Trending&utm_medium=Hootsuite&utm_campaign=Thoughts+on+My+Cogent+Dynamics+Suspension I love this bike. The suspension changes have been the single best move I made. I know people claim that putting big money into this bike is insane. From my experience it's an investment. Suspension made a big change in the range of capability and the transfer of energy back into me. I'm slightly sore but not beat up after 30 miles of non stop desert conditions after a full days work. If you are on the fence about suspension work all I can say is read, read more, pick people's brains,figure out what is best for you, and go for it. Your first true dual sport ride will have you hooked like a heroine addict and it's all you will ever think about. (Insert any suspension mfg here) are drug dealers and I thank them for supporting this bike and my habit. Pick one, install it, tune it, set it and forget it.
@minkyhead Thanks for clearing that "mess". Does all of your lads order the MZ456-TRL or has anyone ordered the more expensive MX456-TCRL? Would like to hear some thoughts for the TCRL....
Not in the slightest. https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1317003-thoughts-on-my-cogent-dynamics-suspension/?utm_source=Trending&utm_medium=Hootsuite&utm_campaign=Thoughts+on+My+Cogent+Dynamics+Suspension I love this bike. The suspension changes have been the single best move I made. ....................................................................................................................... i like your write up ....looks like you retained your drz mirrors and not the drz ..i liked me drz but hated the gearbox for the roadwork suspension makes a difference for sure .....just doin a conversion for me mate dave ...hes gone a bit mental 48mm kyb forks 320ml disc conversion ... you would like the 450 set up you can hit some stuff at pretty big speeds and it just soaks it up ... one of the big differences is the fork reaction after it just stays level no big bounce like the rally .. one of the surprising things is just how reasonble it is to pick up the parts needed .....there some beefy items for sure make the rallys forks look like pipe cleaners heres daves big gun forks around 400 quid
no just standard shocks ...me bob one leg scooby and dave and cowling all have the standard ..main thing i think is to have the correct spring ..and a decent rebound control that in itsself makes a big difference ...when i put the 100 spring on the last one the rebound stack was too weak so having that done for a few quid was way more important than a remote resivoir ..i dont ride hard enough for long enough to provoke any fade so i dont think i need anything more i think for the rally and its type of use the standard shock does fine .. that said i like my supplier as they deal with any issues quick .they are not just a supplier ..they can re spring and revalve a shock ..sevice or repair by post in a few working days and that helps a lot./.given that they are so cheap to buy with good back up theres not a lot not to like
@minkyhead Thank you for the wise words ;-) "the rally and its type of use the standard shock does fine .." I was tempted to go for the MX-shock but maybe stick with the MZ one. "48mm kyb forks 320ml disc conversion" From which bike is this fork and disc?