The Tubliss is nice, but it is the portable air pump that frees up your options, whether you have Tubliss or not. I have heated gear and tend to ride in the winter, so I put accessory plugs on all my bikes for such. It makes the portable air pump a very simple addition. Even if I didn't have Tubliss, I would run the portable air pump and drop my tire pressures. It makes a world of difference and is cheap and easy.
i run tubliss front/rear on 690 and i don't go below 15 psi. seems unnecessary and feels emotionally uncomfortable to run much lower. tubliss is great. only con is one extra pressure level to check before each ride -tire and inner bladder. i also run tubliss on a 790 down to 23 psi, because i've bent rims lower than that on 790. with tubliss, i carry both compressor and hand pump because compressor cannot inflate to 120 psi, required for inner bladder. because, i run tubliss on the highway, it's important to fill tire with non drying tire sealant to keep temperature down of inner bladder. i use stallion tire high speed sealant on all tires. it doesn't dry up, has broad temperature range, balances tires, seals tire porosity -tires maintain pressure-, cools inner bladder for tubliss setup and seals punctures. i have zero concern about running tubliss on the highway. i've put thousands of miles at speed up to 100 mph. no drama. mostly, with running knobbies, i max speeds around 75-80 mph.
I run 16 PSI front and rear all the time. I consistently get about 4000 miles out of all of my tires, front and rear, regardless of brand. Good enough for me. For desert / mountain riding, dry or wet, I’ve been impressed with both the Rallz and the Desert H/T on the front. After 2500 miles on a Desert H/T on the rear I had torn off a lot of knobs. It was already mentioned but they’re LOUD, front or rear.
Took my 2020 690 out yesterday to the knarly trails I ride my 300 on, to give a it good flogging and see how it performs after doing the Rekluse and LHRB mods. Totally transformed the bike and handling in that kind of terrain. However, I'm running the Rade Garage aux fuel tank and I started having fuel boiling issues from that tank. That cap vent valve thing vents in only one direction, inward. Won't release built up pressure, so I'm going to do something about that. I'm also going to have to find some kind of reflective heat "blanket" I can lay in between the top of the engine and tank bottom, as the adhesive reflective material that came with the tank and the aux layer I added myself isn't cutting it. If any of you folks running the aux tank have come up with something you like and works well, please share. I think I've read of folks putting a second radiator fan on these, but where the heck would you put it? Already running the lower temp fan switch.
@Trailryder42 - I've been thinking about a Rekluse and LHRB, so thanks for pushing me closer to the cliff of spending that money Seems like the Rade tanks have come with 2 or 3 different caps. Mine is black plastic and it definitely vents outward - after some hard riding, even in cold temp, when I stop you can hear it hissing. Open the cap and you get a whoosh and it stops, cap back on and slowly starts hissing again. Can't say I've ever heard or felt the fuel actually boiling, but it is putting out a lot of vapor. I'm only using the included-stick on reflective sheet. I recall people buying heat blankets for their Buell's to keep them from cooking their legs and ass... I've found some info, but the company that sold them looks to be long gone and I can't figure out what the material is, but maybe you'll recognize it. It was a guy named Odie and company called Special Ops http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/342016.html?1204333358
Mine hisses too, but it's an inward draw as the rear tank uses fuel and transfers fuel from the front. You can take the little vent valve thingy off and try blowing and sucking thru it with your mouth. Mine, you can suck air but not blow thru it the other way. The ball valve freely moves, so it's not that. It's the design of the valve. Found some stuff called Thermal Block I'm going to try for covering the Rade tank. https://www.amazon.com/Second-Skin-...ive+heat+blankets&qid=1634935223&sr=8-34&th=1
My friends Sherco have a valve that can open both ways but it stops the gas from spilling when in a tumble. It blocked and wouldn't let out..
That would be ideal, a valve that lets air pass both ways but fuel only one way. I had a similar check valve to the one that came with the Rade tank (going to save it) and it is the same type valve, one way only. I drilled a very small hole in the top of it so positive pressure could be vented. Ran a length of vent line from the cap down along another stock vent line for something, zip-tied to the right radiator so it drains below the radiator. Then zip-tied a piece of old air filter foam around the vent valve to act as a filter for when the Rade tank is drawing a vacuum. If I have another boiling episode, the tank will be able to blow that pressure off now. We'll see how well it works in time.
The stock vent line you mentioned behind the radiator would be the coolant overflow. I’m not sure if you teed into it, but if so, I imagine you’d want to change to a separate line.
I thought so too. He said it was broken because it wouldn't vent. I Googled for it but can only find one way valves... Will have to ask him before spreading misinformation
I just double checked mine and there is a ball in there (I thought it was a rubber flap for some reason). Air can go in no problem, and I can blow out slowly. Blow too hard and ball moves up and blocks it. Sure seems like a 2-way valve that will plug up in a tip over - it's been on its side more than once and I don't recall any fuel spilling, so it must work . I suppose if it's boiling and trying to vent pretty aggressively like you describe, it might block it entirely.
It may seal in a tip over to prevent fuel from passing. Don't know as I haven't tested that. Apparently, mine doesn't take much positive pressure to seal off. I had fuel making it's way past the vent hoses seal with the fuel caps nipple. Had to slowly unscrew the cap to let it bleed off in a controlled manner. Don't like the idea of escaping fuel under pressure dripping down onto a hot engine. That's a recipe for a fire. I'd rather loose a little fuel in a tip over. I had my phone with me, don't know why I didn't think to get a video.
Need advice - Front brake squishy after bike sitting unused... I have a 2019 with around 12K miles. ABS dongle, so front abs by default always on, rear always off. About half a year ago for the first time I experienced a squishy front brake after the bike sat for around a month. I bled the front brake and it was better, but following that on a ride involving long slow steep downhill descents it almost felt like like the ABS was kicking in under non abrupt, mild braking and the lever felt soft/squishy again to the point it was feeling dangerous. Switched the ABS off and didn't seem to improve. After that ride, I replaced the brake fluid, and bled the system, and checked for any leaks at the brake reservoir and checked the ABS system as well and it all looked dry. Brakes felt good for the next similar ride with long downhills so I thought it had resolved itself with the bleeding. But today, same thing, bike has been sitting for a couple of months and the brake is so soft I can press it all the way to the grip. The system is dry, no leaks. Anyone experienced this? Any suggestions? Thanks, Barak
Not with my 690, but I have had it happen with my 1090 after it having sat thru this last winter. Rather than immediately break open the system (bleed nipples), I compress the calipers with my foot to push the fluid out of them and up to the reservoir (with the top off). Have some catch rags in place. Then suck out the reservoir fluid, keeping just enough to prevent the port from becoming uncovered and top off with new fluid. Install the cover and pump the brakes up. Repeat compressing the caliper a few more times and pumping back up. This has worked well and I didn't need to break open the system and deal with the possibility of introducing air into the system that I would then need to deal with.
The exact reason why I don't run these stubby one way valve things on any of my dirt bikes. I was amazed/disappointed with that part of the Rade kit. I figured I'd be coming up with another solution in short order.
This happens. Check the master cylinder cap. There's a tiny slot around the edge that lets air behind the cover's diaphram. The gasket will close off this slot over time, or if over tightened. When this happens, any atmospheric change will effect the brakes. Take a very sharp razor and trim the gasket to remove the bump. Also, try 'back bleeding'. Get a big screwdriver and pry back the brake pads. Do it fast. Then pump them back out slowly. Pump, release, pause. This helps brakes keep the air out. Hauling your bike over the mountains can cause this. Small amounts of air can settle out and cause it. It really helps to pressurize the system for a few days before you bleed it. Press the brake lever, wrap a bungie around the lever and let it set for a few days. Then bleed it. This will push small air bubbles into the fluid and make it much easier to bleed them out.
Ah man, I'm about this close, / \ , to ordering the K-Tech ORVS system for my 2020 690E forks. https://www.ktechsuspensionusa.com/p-23813-k-tech-suspension-orvs-fork-piston-kit.aspx With all the stuff I've sprung for on this thing since I got it, that I didn't have a problem with, don't know why I'm holding back on this.
