“Per aspera ad astra...no, simply to Nordkapp”

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Paulblueyes, Dec 8, 2014.

  1. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    During the winter we spent a lot of time watching maps choosing the destination for our next trip, and consider that 2 years ago we was in the west part of the Europe, last year in the east, for this trip we choose to go to the north... the destination is… NORDKAPP.
    We choose to go in the second part of June that is consider the best time to see the midnight sun.
    We start quite early the preparation for the trip because this is the first trip with the new motorbike, the BWM F800GS.
    First of all we need to choose the side panniers, for the topcase we already have the Givi E460 that come from the old bikes, and we choose the new Givi Trekker Outback in aluminum. They have a good value for money compared to BMW original or other brands.
    Another good purchase is the cloth bags purchased at Decathlon and used like internal bags for panniers instead of the expensive original, with this bags there is no need to lock and unlock the panniers every day.
    In the weeks before leaving we read a lot about the possible place to visit and where to spent the nights, so we decided to use the cheaper “hytte” instead of the expensive hotels for the Nordic countries. We also decided to carry on the topcase something to eat like pasta, rice and other things for saving money because we read that in Norway the restaurant are very expensive and in all the camping there are kitchen free for use.
    The week of the departure arrive quite faster, we use the last days to mount new tires, change the oil in the bike, and nothing more.. We are ready to go!

    Here a preview of the route:

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    #1
  2. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    14/06: Fabriano – Olomouc:

    The day of the departure arrive, the goal for today is to make the biggest quantity of kilometers, the forecast are not so good, in Italy there should arrive the “Summerstorm” with a lot of rain.
    At 7am we were ready for leaving, we left with rain-equipment because it was already raining but at the end we found only few rain during the day, as usual the forecast are wrong, better for us!
    Around lunch time we arrived near the border with Austria, we stopped to have a little rest and eat something.
    At 7pm we are near Wien, but we decide to not stop and go on, at the end we stop at 9pm in Olomouc (Czech Rep.) there are an Ibis hotel in the main street located just 15 min. walking from the center. We had dinner and then sleep, the day was quite hard.

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    #2
  3. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

    Joined:
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    Thanks for sharing your awesome ride :thumb

    :lurk
    #3
  4. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    15/06: Olomouc – Warsaw:
    We woke up quite early in the morning, we load luggage on the bike and we leave for the second stop, the capital of the Poland, Warsaw. We arrive in Warsaw quite faster and we also stop in an Ibis hotel in the center of the city. The biggest surprise comes from the weather, the maximum temperature if the day is +12, we imaged to find this kind of cold at least in Finland, not in Poland!!! Anyway we can’t do anything, we carry jacket, umbrella and we start to visit the city.
    In few minutes we reach the center of the city and we visit: the Old Town, Museum of Marie Curie, Market Place with The Warsaw Mermaid, a bronze sculpture symbol of city, the Castle Square with the Royal Castle and the iconic King Sigismund's Column, Palace of Culture and Science, Warsaw Barbican, the Polish Academy of Sciences and the Warsaw University, Nicolaus Copernicus monument. After a lot of kilometers walking we arrive at the end of the day, we had dinner, go back in the hotel and start to think about the next day.

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    #4
  5. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    16/06: Warsaw – Vilnius:
    Today the weather seems not bad, and our next stop in the capital of the Lithuania, Vilnius, we arrive there quite fast, because it is not so far from Warsaw, so we have time to visit the city. We found a B&B in the center, with a private parking, so we unload the luggage and we start to walk in the beautiful streets of Vilnius.
    We visit: Gediminas Castle, St. Anne's Church, Cathedral of Vilnius, Three Crosses hill, the Gate of Dawn and all the city center.
    For the dinner we found a typical restaurant with local food.

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    #5
  6. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    17/06: Vilnius – Riga:

    After a good breakfast in the B&B we start to travel to Riga, the next capital of our trip. Today we have 2 new friend, the rain and the cold wind, but fortunately the distance between Vilnius and Riga is not so much so we arrived at our destination just after lunch. In Riga we found and hotel just outside the city center but with private parking and bus station just in front of it so it was quite simple to arrive in the center.
    We see: St. Mary's Dome Cathedral, St. Peter's Church, Riga Town Hall Square, House of Blackheads, Freedom Monument (Brivibas Piemineklis).

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    #6
  7. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    18/06: Riga – Tallinn:

    We left the hotel at 8.30am and the temperature is only +8°, seems to be in winter, we follow the gulf of Riga and we enter in Estonia, and after some hours we arrive in the capital, Tallinn.
    We found and hotel just near the port because the day after the plan is to go to Helsinki by ferryboat, so before start our usually trip in the city center, we went to buy the ferry ticket for the day after.
    We visit: Tallinn Old Town, Toompea Hill, Town Hall Square, Oleviste Church, Viru Gates , Town Council's Aphothecary , Patkuli Viewing Platform, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

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    #7
  8. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    19/06: Tallinn – Helsinki – Sievi:

    The ferry boat to Helsinki leave at 7am so at 5am we are already stand and ready to move to the port, the boarding is quite fast, and the ship is so nice with a panoramic room inside with the view on the Baltic sea.
    The trip is not so long, just 2,5 hours. Near us seat 2 “Catalan” bikers, (not Spanish they said), they also travel with 2 Bmw 1200 Gs to Nordkapp. We will meet each other 2 times more during the trip.
    Arrived in Helsinki, we decided to go directly to north because I already saw it and there not so many interesting things that needs to be visited, so we take the highway just to exit quickly from the city than we go out in national road to visit the lakes area. The stop for today is the city Sievi, a small city situated 500km north of Helsinki, we stop here because a couple of friend live is a small wooden cottage in the woods, with sauna and a small river behind the house, they said that in winter also a small bear live near and sometimes visit them! We are already far from civilization, it seems to be a part of the movie “In to the Wild” .
    The night follow quite fast between, grilled sausages, typical of that area, sauna for relaxing and talking with them, we realize that time to sleep is arrived just because the clock sign 11pm even if the sun is still up in the sky....

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    #8
  9. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    20/06: Sievi – Rovaniemi:

    As usually we woke up quite early, today the outside temperature is +4, quite cold (!) We have a good breakfast and we are ready to leave, we great and thanks our friends for their hospitality and we go on the road. With this cold today we make a lot of stop, just to enter in some bar to take something hot to drink. A big surprise was to find in a restaurant the pizza “Berlusconi”, I didn’t ask what is the ingredients, but this is what we (Italians) are famous for….
    With a good rain that seems almost snow we arrive in Rovaniemi, we found an hotel and we go out to see the city: the Jätkänkynttilä bridge with the eternal flame over the Kemijoki river, the church, the main square called with the name of a famous finnish rockband “Lordi” that won Eurovision in 2006.
    The weather is not so good, the temperature in the square is quite low, 4-5°C so we decide to go back in the hotel to the football match between Italy and Costa Rica, but consider the results of the match maybe was better to stay outside.

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    #9
  10. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    21/06: Rovaniemi –Inari Lake:

    The day start with a trip at Santa Claus village, that is situated just few kilometers out of Rovaniemi. We walk around the village and we make a lot of photos near the Arctic Circle Line. We meet a Belgian biker with a Multistrada 1200, also traveling to Nordkapp. After that we start the road to the north and we stop in a typical bar to eat cloudberries, a type of yellow berries the grows only in the North, very tasty!
    Following the road we start to see the reindeers crossing or just standing in the side of the road, we make a lot of photos of them.
    In the evening we stop at Inari lake, we rent a cabin and we discover that our neighbor is the Belgian biker that we meet in the morning. The view around the lake is very good, also the weather, a little bit of sun and the clouds that is coming. Very nice. We make shop in a supermarket, today we start to eat at home!

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    #10
  11. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    22/06: Inari Lake – Skarsvåg – Nordkapp:

    The day start discovering that in our camping there not only the Belgian with MTS but also the 2 Catalans that we met in the ferry boat to Helsinki.. it is real that the word is too small!!!
    The goal for today is to reach our main destination, Nordkapp. The weather seems not so good and we start to travel directly with the rain equipment.
    The road runs quickly and the number of the reindeers increase every minute. After some stops in which we meet a lot of bikers, Italians also, we reach the 7 kilometers tunnel that sign the border of the municipality of Nordkapp. We stop in a camping in Skarsvåg, a small village situated just 13 kilometers south of Nordkapp, and we rent a cabin for the night. We decide to wait for midnight to reach most northern point, in the meanwhile we made a walk in the village had dinner and rest a little. At 11pm we start to go to reach the Globe, for enter there is to pay a ticket and this ticket is valid 24 hours. The problem is that the ticket is quite expensive. When we arrive the sky was full of fog, it was almost impossible to see anything, so we decided to see the Nordkapphallen first, a touristic building that include some souvenir shops, restaurants, an exhibition relative about the history of Nordkapp, a cinema where every 30 minutes show a clip with all the things that are around here, a Thailand museum, a gallery in the rocks with a small church in the middle and at the end a big glass window where is possible to see the midnight sun, if the weather agree!
    At 1am the fog disappear and we go out making pictures with the globe and to the beautiful view that is around here.
    Outside the Nordkapphallen, there are other 2 monuments, “Children in the World”, 7 stone medallions with the drawing of children of 7 different nations and a sculpture that show a mother with his son.
    Now is 2am in the night, time to go back to sleep, we didn’t see the midnight sun but the weather was quite good with us because the fog run away and we have possibilities to see the landscape around here.

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    #11
  12. TREEMER77

    TREEMER77 Treem

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    On the road
    Waiting to read the last parts of your trip ... I must say there is nothing better than traveling with your half on her bike. I bet that makes the trip even sweeter.
    Congratulations!
    #12
  13. TropicalDale

    TropicalDale The Adventures of Peter Pan

    Joined:
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    Cleveland,Ohio
    Nice trip and great photos.
    Thank you for sharing your trip with us.:clap
    #13
  14. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    23/06: Skarsvåg – Birtavarre Camping:

    Today start the way back home, we planned to visit the coast of the Norway slowly to appreciate all the beautiful landscape of this country. So we start to follow the road but we were too much busy watching the landscapes and we realize that we made a mistake when we arrived in Hammerfest, a small city out of the main road with a monument of a big polar bear just outside the city. We have no possibilities to go on because the road end, so we go back, 50km more should not be a problem. We stop in the evening at Birtavarre Camping, a village situate in a small fiord some kilometers south of Alta.

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    #14
  15. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    24/06: Birtavarre Camping – Å i Lofoten:

    Today the sun shine in the sky, this is a good news because the plan for today is to visit the Lofoten, here the landscape is fabulous, every 5 minutes we stop to take pictures. We follow the road that pass through all the islands and at the end we arrive in Å (Last city of the Lofoten and last letter of the Norwegian alphabet). We rent a cabin and we go out for a walk. The main activity of the city is the fishing, and all is related to this. There is also the stockfish museum and the Norwegian museum of the fishing villages.

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    #15
  16. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    25/06: Å i Lofoten – Bodø – Storforsen Camping Mosjoen:

    Today is just a transfer day, nothing special to visit, only to see the landscapes that we will find following the road, we left the Lofoten by ferryboat and we arrive in Bodo. The weather is not so good, some rain and quite cold, but it is not so important, so we start to move to the south.
    Suddenly behind me a police machine appear, the policeman sign me to stop. I knew that here the policemen is quite strictly and for sure not corruptible like the Ukrainians that I met last year.
    The policeman start to talk with me in a perfect English, and ask me if I know why he stop me, I answer that maybe is because I run too fast? And he said yes, you run 114km/h and I reply well, just few km above the limit that is 100km/h, right? He said don’t you know that in this street the limit is 80? I reply with a surprise in my face that I thought is 100, then I start to talking about that with this kind of bikes in 6th gear and just few gas is simple to travel at 100km/h, I can’t look at speedometer every minutes because here is simple to have distraction watching the beautiful landscapes, the I go on explain to him that we are already travelling from 6000km, with a lot of luggage we are not come to Norway for run on the road. He answer that the price of the violation is quite high, and I sad, well I made mistake, I have to pay, no option. At the end he said me that for this time he gives me just a “Warning” but I have to promise that I will respect the limit!
    Maybe I was luck but it seems to me that here the police work for prevention, not like in Italy where the limit are used like a taxes.
    We restart to follow the route to south, respecting rigidly the limit until we stop in a camping along the road for the night. Dinner and then sleep, tomorrow we go to Kristiansund.

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    #16
  17. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    26/06: Storforsen Camping – Molde:

    We start to travel at 8am as usual, we drive quite calm, remembering what I promise to the policeman. Our plan for today is to arrive in the Atlantic Road (Atlanterhavsveien). Just before Kristiansund we was fascinated from futuristic tunnel (very long, built under the level of the sea, with illuminated traffic circles the only negative point is that this one in the only tunnel that need to pay toll also with motorbike. Suddenly we arrive at the Atlantic Road, 8 km that connect Kristiansund and Molde with 12 bridges. Sincerely speaking we remain a little bit disappointed from this road because looking the pictures in internet seem better, from the road there isn’t a good point of view, maybe it is better to see it from the sky. So we stopped at Kviltorp Camping in Molde. For sure tomorrow the landscapes will be better.

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    #17
  18. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    27/06: Molde – “Trolls’ Path” – Geirangerfjord:

    We left Molde passing through a long tunnel under the level of the sea, and we arrive in Åndalsnes. From here we take a little road called Trolls’ Path (Trollstigen) a beautiful mountain road with 11 curves. During the climb we met 2 beautiful waterfalls Stigfossen and Tverrdalsfossen. Once we arrived on the top we stop to visit the panoramic platform that was built see all the road from the top. Also here is possible to find a service area with restaurants, bar, and a lot of souvenir’ shops. After that we arrive at the Eagles Road (Ørneveien) that connect Geirangerfjord with Norddalsfjord, with a lot of curves more. From there is possible to see the beautiful landscape of the Geirangerfjord from the top. Fortunately today the weather was quite good, so we could appreciate the beautiful natural landscapes of this area. In the evening we stop at Sandvik camping, not so far from Sogndal.


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    #18
  19. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

    Joined:
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    28/06: Songdal – Stavanger:

    This is the last day in Norway but before leaving with have to visit something more, we start with the Snow Road (Snøveien), after a long climb and a beautiful upland we arrive in a point called Stegastein, a beautiful wood platform where is possible to see the Aurlandsfjord from the top. In the evening we pass through a lot of tunnels, bridges, one of the most famous is an hanging bridge on the Hardangerfjord, and a lot of waterfalls, one of the most famous is the Låtefossen.
    We also want to visit Bergen but it was impossible to find a place for spending the night in every hotel or camping near it, so we decided to change the plans and go directly to the port of Stavanger and take the ferry boat to Hirtshals (Denmark). We great the beautiful Norway, we will dream al the fantastic landscapes for long time more.

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    #19
  20. Paulblueyes

    Paulblueyes Adventurer

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    29/06: Hirtshals – Berlin:

    After a terrible night spent on the uncomfortable air seat of the Danish ferry boat at 8am we land in Hirtshals, we didn’t stop in Denmark, so we drive directly to Germany along the noisy highway, stopping just to have lunch and make fuel. At 6pm we arrive in Berlin, we found place in the Ibis Budget hotel in Potsdamer Platz, quite cheap accommodation and very close to the center. We go out just to eat and a little walk around, tomorrow we will have all the day to visit the city. Also tomorrow we give a rest day to the bike that carry us continuously from 16 days.

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    #20