“The country through which we passed today was diversified…”

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Revelstoker, Sep 15, 2009.

  1. B-Rod

    B-Rod RubberNecker

    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Alberta
    Glad you are back. Seeing Gary's front fender like that reminded me of the guy in Australia that crashed when the remaining dried mud in the fender finally broke free. I have resisted putting a high fender myself, but for moments like these. . . .

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    #61
  2. Bartron

    Bartron 'Tenacious B' the Bike Punisher

    Joined:
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    788
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    Was Gary's tent under the tree because the fly had shrunk in the desert heat?

    Great work as usual Revelstroker!
    #62
  3. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Revelstoke, BC
    Thanks Bartron. Gary had cut his fly short to save weight. :lol3
    #63
  4. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Revelstoke, BC
    Well, it's said my life is been so free and easy
    But I'll tell you now the story isn't so
    ‘Cause I've spent a lot of time down on the corner
    Tasting tears and spilling whisky on the floor

    Gram Parsons

    Today is a quick transit day – all pavement. It was actually a nice break – my bike is geared so that 95km/h is pretty much the comfortable top speed – so it was a big iPod day. Judging by the moisture on the Garmin, there had been a little moisture overnight.
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    Judging by the mask, I’d say that it had rained.
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    We stopped back in at Ella’s Café for breakfast again. It’s funny as we had been here only two days ago, but we had come from the opposite direction this time. We spoke to Carlos and his granddaughter Juanita for a few minutes. He wanted to know how much cigarettes cost in Canada and Juanita wanted to know why our bikes were orange.
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    From Reserve, we headed over and up on Highway 32. This was real head’s down riding – nothing eventful. Eventually we ended up in Farmington, NM. We didn’t need fuel, but we needed a break. This was where we made a friend for life. Willard had been scoping out the 640 and asking questions about it for quite awhile. I told him to climb aboard – it made his day.
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    Just after Farmington, we hit the 6000km mark of the vacation.
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    Not long after the 6000km mark, we hit the 100 hour mark. I was interested to see what was going to happen to the ‘moving time’ – would it reset or continue on. It did neither. It just went blank.
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    We stopped at the first Mom and Pop motel that we saw in Durango – The Wapiti. Interesting place and management to say the least. I wasn’t disappointed, but as you can tell by the sign, they have a sense of humor. That is Gary in the background – he had gone for a walk to get beer. I was chuckling at him walking along the main road in his gear, but thankful for the bounty he returned to the motel with.
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    Within about a half hour of us arriving, it started to dump buckets. Very thankful I wasn’t racing trying to get into Durango.
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    We definitely would not have to hit the spray wash tomorrow!
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    I can only imagine that there are better restaurants in Durango than Christina’s Grill & Bar, but this was fairly entertaining. Nice thing was that it was walking distance to the Wapiti so we could light it up a little. Hefeweisen and tequila were the two of the many drinks of choice as was the all you can eat catfish…for Gary. I went for a steak.
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    No, this is not Anna Nicole Smith, this is Gary's new friend Pam.
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    Night out. Tomorrow the real riding starts again as we’re back on the the dirt!
    #64
  5. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    Give my love to Rose please won't you mister
    Take her all my money, tell her to buy some pretty clothes
    Tell my boy his daddy's so proud of him
    And don't forget to give my love to Rose

    Johnny Cash

    We started at a relaxed pace this morning – Gary hung and watched a little TV at The Wapiti and I rode downtown and had breakfast and a few espresso drinks. We weren’t in a huge rush as we had plans to stop in at Handlebar Motorsports for some new chocolate for the 640 as the TKC was done!
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    Yum, new chocolate.
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    The guys at Handlebar were nice enough to let us use their equipment to change the oil out back as well. We bought some synthetic Honda oil – this was the first time I had put anything other than Motorex in the LC4. I thought that I noticed the paintwork taking on a shade of red over the next day or so, but Gary assured me this was just an illusion.
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    The fruit of Gary's hard labor - 2 litres of toxic juice.
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    The Upper East Side Deli is a great spot – we hit it for a brunch after the oil change.
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    Finally we hit the road being sufficiently well fed.
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    From Durango, we headed up towards Silverton. This is a great ride and it would really be one of the last longer sections of pavement that we would ride over the next couple of weeks. The view down into Silverton is very cool.
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    We stopped into the gas station to fill up and started to chat with this fellow biker. He’d built this baby himself. I’m always blown away by how I ride with armor, a full face, a Leatt and 11 inches of travel and then there’s folks that don’t have any of this! Not that there’s anything wrong with that… Regardless, he was very personable, although I couldn’t stop thinking that my six year old daughter has more muscles in her arms…and less tattoo’s.
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    Didn’t take us long to find a good coffee shop. I had yet another espresso and Gary had a gourmet hot chocolate - the whipped stuff on top looked really good.
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    We stopped into The Sinclair to chat with this guy and his friends. I’ve totally forgotten his handle, but he is on ADV Rider as well. Gary liked the Husky.
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    Leaving The Sinclair, we headed back through Silverton one last time and made our way up to Animas Fork in order to join the TAT. Animas Fork is at just over 11,000 feet and was a fully functioning town in the late 1800’s, but emptied out by the 1920’s. On the way up we came across these Pinzgauers full of tourists on the way back down.
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    I like Land Rover’s and this one didn’t look out of place in Colorado very unlike the one’s I usually see in Vancouver.
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    If you look closely, you'll see a little cabin on the slope.
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    Daily gratuitous bike shot set against a pretty cool backdrop.
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    The route out of Animas Fork is like nothing I've ever ridden through before. This would be a National Park in Canada! Here's a shot of Gary soaking it up.
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    Gorgeous is all I can say.
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    Looking back down at where we've been.
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    Some sort of boiler located near the summit of California Pass - Gary is in the background on his way up.
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    From Animas Fork we proceed up this great valley to California Pass at just under 13,000 feet! I think of myself being in pretty good shape, but I certainly felt a little out of breathe walking to the summit. In Canada, it is the law that pilots equip themselves with oxygen when flying over 10,000 feet. I kind of wanted a RedBull.
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    This is the view on the backside of California Pass looking over to Hurricane Pass on the left hand side. It really is quite surreal looking – reminded me of some black velvet painting with overly vibrant colors…except this was real!
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    Once we arrived at the top of Hurricane Pass, Gary thought he’d catch up on the yoga classes he had been missing. Actually, I think he was celebrating the fact that neither of us had ridden off of the road today...or that his new friend Pam wasn't chasing us.
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    The riding is actually pretty straight forward and the road well worn as there is quite a bit of four-wheel traffic coming through here. These were the youngest travelers we saw this day. They looked half interested.
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    This shot is looking down off the backside of Hurricane Pass.
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    The mountains went on forever this day.
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    Gary negotiating a corner on the way to the Corkscrew.
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    After a few kilometers we came to the general vicinity of the Corkscrew Gulch which would take us back down to earth. At the top there is a toilet with an informative and prophetic sticker. It’s here that we also ran across these three. They were MidWesterners that had been riding in the area for a week. They were stoked about their trip but depressed that they had to go home the next day to Minneapolis and Milwaukee if I’m not mistaken. Good on them, especially two-up on a KLR for a week – that takes talent.
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    Looking back up to Hurricane Pass.
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    No reading material but this little prophetic message.
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    This is the view looking down The Gulch. It was a fine piece of riding.
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    Gary was having some back brake issues and stopped to do a little adjustment. Gave me an opportunity to sit and catch up on my beef jerky and Corn Nut consumption. With Gary being 100% more proficient than I would be in getting the job done, we weren’t there for long.
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    We didn't have 4X4 vehicles but we still did okay.
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    At the bottom of The Gulch there is a great map so that you can actually get an idea of where you’ve been. That is where we met Heinz, a German geologist that proceeded to tell us all about the the area. Very interesting for the first 15 minutes or so.
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    We pulled out onto the Million Dollar Highway and kept our eyes open for a good campspot. It’s really narrow through here so begger’s couldn’t be chooser’s. Eventually we found one…at 10,400 feet. I was thinking to myself that Gary was most likely to have an uncomfortable night at this altitude right about the time that I clipped the bulldozer with my left pannier. Just another dent...in my precious ego.
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    Our camp spot rocked once again – great views, quiet and obscure.
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    #65
  6. B-Rod

    B-Rod RubberNecker

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    Remind of the dates you were there. I am trying to get my wife interested in a 2-up trip, and I think an Alberta-Colorado trip would be a good place to start.
    #66
  7. Chad M

    Chad M A full head of air.

    Joined:
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    N49, W4
    Nevermind your pillion, I was thinking we should do this next summer!:clap

    #67
  8. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2007
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    Revelstoke, BC

    B-Rod, we were in Silverton on August 15th. I think this was most likely a very good time. I imagine that there are times some of these passes would still have snow in late June and then again in September. Gary & I were very fortunate as the temperature/weather was perfect while we were there.
    #68
  9. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    234
    Location:
    Revelstoke, BC
    An outlaw is a man
    Who never understands
    A word called danger
    He learns to shoot and ride as a child
    And to never trust a stranger
    And he's always called a better man

    Marshall Tucker Band

    Today was a relatively early start for the reason I was thinking just prior to hitting the bulldozer the evening before; it had been cold on Gary and also I thought I heard a truck coming up the road we were just camped off of and I didn’t really want to deal with some pissed off goldpanner.
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    During the night I had what sounded like one of Gary’s Gobi Bags falling over. I was right, but unfortunately the Gobi’s were still on his bike. His bike was laying on it’s side and quite a large quantity of fuel had leaked out. Rather than turning right to head up the Ophir Pass, we headed back into Silverton to fill Gary up and we decided we may as well have breakfast here rather than Telluride as previously planned.
    Stream on the way down from our campsite – my camera couldn’t really capture the true reddish color.
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    The ride from our campspot to Silverton was yet another ride I was pleased to have my heated grips. I captured these shots as Gary kept riding, too cold to stop. I think these may have been the first signs that hadn’t been shot up!
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    Cheney apparently skis in jeans!
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    Breakfast in Silverton was a good call! The crayons weren't mine.
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    We soon mounted up and headed back the way we had just come on Hwy 550 to ride over the Ophir Pass. This route is a well maintained gravel road that dates back to the late 1800’s when it was used to cart gold between Ophir, telluride and Silverton.
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    Here’s Gary getting close to the top.
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    Here’s the view looking down the backside of Ophir pass – this is the road we’ll descend on.
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    Looking back up to the summit – a spectacular day!
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    This is the town of Ophir – it’s a good long descent.
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    We continued on through Ophir until we hit Hwy 145 where we turned left and rode the slab past The Lizard Head eventually bearing right onto Forest Road 38 along Meadow Creek.
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    There were a tremendous amount of cross-country motorbikers in this area. The road/riding etiquette they displayed was outstanding – we always knew how many there were yet to come with hand signals. Not that this anything new, but each and every rider was bang on everytime. You can see a few have just passed Gary in this picture.
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    A nice cabin along FR 38.
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    After a few rights and a few lefts we ended up on the Willow Divide Trail. The WDT has a few gates – we’d had it easy over the last few days and were in for a workout again today.
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    Great double track riding through The WDT. Dry for the most part, but it did have some deep small puddles that had what seemed like vertical walls.
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    I kept losing the bolt that holds my rack at this point. Locktite wasn’t doing it for me. Luckily these heli-ski straps from CMH are the shit. This strap actually seemed to hold everything tighter than the bolt. Eventually in Moab I’d get new bolts with nuts and locktite it all up.
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    From the end of Willow Divide there is a lot of beautiful high plain riding as we rode Westward. Just prior to descending down into the Dove Creek area we rode through a very recent forest fire. It had burned hot! The soil was still warm and there was absolutely nothing left.
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    15 minutes after leaving the fire zone we were in the midst of massive fields of sunflowers. This was my attempt to emulate the shot Graham Watson takes every year at the Tour de France when the peloton rides through the sunflowers.
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    Dove Creek, Colorado is definitely something special…I just couldn’t figure out what or why it would be. This is yet another town that seems to be on it’s deathbed.
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    Just before town is the airport. This duster has had better days...kind of like Dove Creek.
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    Yet another chance meeting. This fellow, named Hugh, started chatting with Gary and asked him if had heard of Revelstoke (if you’ve read this RR from the beginning, you’ll know this has happened once before). Gary said yes, he’d heard of it, and Hugh told us his daughter lived there. Ends up that Hugh’s daughter is the wife of one of my friends here in Revelstoke. What are the chances?!
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    Freeloader catching a ride to Moab.
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    The road out of Dove Creek heading West towards the Manti La-Sal National Forest…and Moab.
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    Continuing West. The road surface wasn’t as buff as the last shot. No problem for us as it was quite dry, but I can only imagine how nasty this road might be with some precipitation!
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    We turned North just prior to hitting Monticello in order to come into Moab on dirt – the long way no doubt, but definitely more scenic. Another gate. This one we decided not to open and turned back, scaled out the GPS, and worked a diversion that hooked us back into the road into La Sal. I can taste Moab now!
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    I’ve been to Moab plenty of times, but never had been on the Eastern side of the La Sal Mountains. I was absolutely blown away. It reminded me of British Columbia rather than the deserts of Utah. Very lush.
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    Gratuitous bike shot
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    Hunting season had started the day before and there were a lot of camo wearing bow and arrow types skulking about. I’m sure they hated Garys Akrapovic and my FMF although this father & son duo from SLC seemed very nice.
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    The ride from La Sal Pass down through to Moab rocks. The change is scenery will blow your mind. I stopped to take this shot, turned off my bike and sat there…after my ears stopped ringing, I could here Stevie Ray blasting from the camper below. It was kind of surreal to have stopped in the middle of nowhere and hear great music being pumped out.
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    I had been in Moab earlier this Spring for my friend Ian&#8217;s 40<sup>th</sup> birthday at which we had done some fantastic mountainbiking &#8211; one of the great trails of Moab is The Porcupine Rim.
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    To celebrate a fantastic day, one with an unbelievable amount of diversity, we hit The Slick Rock Café for a beer.
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    #69
  10. Holaday

    Holaday Man of Leisure

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2006
    Oddometer:
    704
    Location:
    Vancouver's North Shore, B.C.
    Man I thought the scenery on the CDR was good. This Colorado stuff is getting pencilled in on the To Do list for sure. :D
    #70
  11. GP640

    GP640 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2006
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    4,420
    Location:
    NW AB
    Hey, this is a report worth following.

    Just out of curiosity, what's your connection with CMH?
    #71
  12. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2007
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    234
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    Revelstoke, BC
    Thanks GP640.
    I have no affiliation with CMH other than I like their ski straps and they occasionally have nice snow in some of their tenures :wink:. Actually my employment affiliation is with a competitor...but our straps aren't nearly as nice!
    #72
  13. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Revelstoke, BC
    [FONT=&quot]Up from the banks of the Colorado
    Nightwatchmen stood guard 'round the wagon yard
    And I took a pillar for a sign
    That the salt of the earth was surely mine [/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Up from the banks
    of the Colorado[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]Jimmie Dale Gilmore[/FONT]

    [FONT=&quot]Day eighteen on the road we awoke in The Slickrock Campground of Moab Utah. They used to have a sign, about fifteen years ago, that said this is &#8216;where the funpigs stay&#8217;. We were definitely feeling like pigs, so the showers, pool and hot-tub were very welcome.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]We were looking at Moab as a bit of an oasis where we could regroup &#8211; wash the bikes, sit back have a few coffee&#8217;s, a few beer&#8217;s and some good food&#8230;and maybe a few fun day rides. We started the day at The Creamery &#8211; great spot for espresso and awesome crepes. From there we rolled down Main Street to the coin wash to clean up the machines.[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]A little later start than usual.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Shower time for the FunPig.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]A nice easy ride for today would be out to Hurrah Pass for the vista and then head back into town for a beverage. The road out to Hurrah Pass is buff &#8211; which I find interesting as it is great road the just eventually deteriorates in to rough 4X4 trails.[/FONT]..[FONT=&quot]maybe trails better made for lighter bikes. [/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Here&#8217;s a guy on a lighter bike - he had just come through Kane Creek and was not happy. He said he had suffered in the sand.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Twister.[/FONT]
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    Passing Gary's bike on Kane Creek Road.
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    [FONT=&quot]Gary on his way up to Hurrah Pass.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Team shot at Hurrah Pass.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Gary decided to head back down and do a little exploration up Kane Creek, while I was interested in heading down in Lockhart Basin. Beautiful riding and vistas on the way down.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]This view made me dizzy in real life&#8230;and it still makes me feel a little sea sick just looking at it now. [/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Down on the banks of the Colorado...on the way to Lockhart Basin.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]I eventually made it about 500 meters or so past the intersection of Lockhart Basin and Chicken Corners and started to feel like a chicken myself. It was scorching hot, the riding is moderately technical, and I was by myself. I turned around thinking of a cold beer back at The Slickrock. [/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Gary&#8217;s timing was perfect as we met back up at the Kane Creek/Hurrah Pass intersection and turned back to Moab. Gary was looking a little cooked when I met him, but in good humor as always. He said the sand he hit was way more than he had the energy for on this day.[/FONT]
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    [FONT=&quot]Back at the ranch we met Rick who was in Moab for a week of riding on his Yamaha. He brought out the Crown Royal and made a friend for life. So begins the evening in Moab.:slurp[/FONT]
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    #73
  14. tele-steve

    tele-steve ya' mon

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    274
    Location:
    The Peoples Republic- Rocky Mountain Edition
    I've only been up to Golden BC once for a trip to the Fairy Meadows Hut and it pretty much ruined me for skiing anywhere else.
    We did he CDR 2 years ago and it is great to some more pictures of the route.

    :clap:clap
    #74
  15. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    234
    Location:
    Revelstoke, BC
    Ferry Meadows is definitely a very pretty spot.
    Here's a link to a Ride Report a friend of mine has just completed - lots of riding around the Golden area: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516192
    #75
  16. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    234
    Location:
    Revelstoke, BC
    Sometimes I don't know where this dirty road is taking me
    Sometimes I can't even see the reason why
    I guess I keep on gamblin', lots of booze and lots of ramblin'
    It's easier than just a-waitin' 'round to die

    Townes Van Zandt

    Started the day at The Creamery again &#8211; the crepes are great, but I&#8217;ve already mentioned that.
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    Also staying at The Slickrock were two sisters from Montreal; Monique & Celine. These two had taken leaves of absence from their jobs and were travelling for a year. They had bought a couple of bikes and had done some practice back in Quebec before heading to Moab to ride. Knowing that we were going to be doing some mellow site seeing, Gary & I invited them along as well as Rick, Gary&#8217;s Crown Royal supplier. A nice loop to do out of Moab is Gemini Bridges &#8211; this is a day ride on a mountainbike, but just a couple of hours with an LC4.
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    The road up to Gemini Bridges.
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    This view is to the left just prior to getting to Gemini.
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    &#8216;Team of the Day&#8217; photo.
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    Me standing on top of Gemini Bridge.
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    Team Quebecois. These ladies did very well. I am sure they are still somewhere down in the USA getting better at riding everyday.
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    We continued on from Gemini Bridge to The Island in the Sky Road, turning left we rode the asphalt for a few miles until turning left to descend down The Long Canyon back to the Colorado River. The Long Canyon is not only long, but it&#8217;s deep. We contributed to the local erosion by throwing stones over the edge.
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    Gary&#8217;s didn&#8217;t &#8216;throw&#8217; that well and got hung up on the edge. I told him that I&#8217;d buy dinner if I was able to kick it down. We just about lost him that day&#8230;! I didn&#8217;t buy him dinner.
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    The view down The Long Canyon.
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    Rick&#8217;s bike needed a rest. I didn't feel so bad about taking this picture as Rick had roosted me about 30 seconds before this shot!
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    The drop through The Long Canyon was quite loose and dusty. I wouldn&#8217;t have really wanted to on a bike bigger than the 640.
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    This rock across the road made for a nice picture.
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    The afternoon was spent doing a little shopping for the girls, drinking a beer or two, washing some clothes in preparation for tomorrow&#8217;s departure, and reading the newspaper at the pool&#8217;s edge. I had dinner at Milt&#8217;s Diner that night. Milt&#8217;s is a Moab institution having served burgers since 1954 &#8211; it&#8217;s like stepping back in time. I recommend the chocolate malt.
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    Tomorrow we depart Moab and head West.
    #76
  17. B-Rod

    B-Rod RubberNecker

    Joined:
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    Alberta
    Try going up that shite on a 640! It was short lived, but tough.
    #77
  18. Revelstoker

    Revelstoker Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2007
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    Revelstoke, BC
    Sweet Black Jesus! Going up would have been miserable as all be!
    #78
  19. Bartron

    Bartron 'Tenacious B' the Bike Punisher

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
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    788
    Location:
    Alberta
    fixed.
    #79
  20. Snuffy

    Snuffy Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2005
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    1,084
    Location:
    Tucson
    Excellent ride report. :lurk
    #80