i mean very hard to start history: 1st bought in 2002. i got it 01/07, still on original tires - i mean like new! it started ok when i 1st got it. ive put 150 miles on it. it has become increasingly harder to start. air filter cleaned, fresh gas, getting to carb, carb pulled apart jets cleaned. valves adjusted to .004 int/exh. oil changed. plug showing spark. new plug put in. i dont get it. the bike is almost impossible to start. it will bump start after numerous trys and run fine. but its hard to restart?????? it has the dellorto phm 40 carb. its all stock. does anyone have any idea? im ready to drag it out to the husky monument and put it in concrete too.
On the left side of the carb is the fuel idle mixture screw, my 03 was gooped over with silicon, they do this to meet emissions must have to not be "adjustable" by owner. Anyway get some small needle nose or tweezers and dig the silicon out. The screw itself is a "D" shape (I took mine out and cut a groove in it for a screwdriver by holding it upside down on a hacksaw blade but you can adjust it with needle nose at first), back it out a 1/4-1/2 turn at a time. Also I always give it one twist of the throttle to shoot some gas into the cylinder, this helps when it's hot too. I also raised my needle one notch to richin it up, again it's leaned out for emissions tests. Once it is warmed up and idleing you can fine tune the mixture screw somewhere between 1500-1800 rpm on idle, it will idle faster when warm. I always use the choke to start it when it's cold too. Hope this helps it has worked well for me.....
i think at some point they changed to the keihin, which another animal entirely..... on the left side of the carb, motor end, is a fuel screw. mine is exposed. is there another one too.? thanks for the input.
If you have the Te610e model you should re-jet the carb. The mixture screw will also help. The low speed jet needs to be richer. I will post the kit I installed when I locate the info for you, it made a BIG improvement.
Big difference between the 610E and regular 610...do you have the street bike or dirt bike? Another thing to watch out for is the magnets on the flywheel. They had a bad batch of epoxy in those days and when they come loose, the bike just won't start at all (not your problem now, but watch out for it). I've got an extra flywheel and stator after mine came loose.
Just one, I think they were exposed when your bike was new, my 03 was gooped. Here is a very informative Dellorto tuning manual. http://web.tiscali.it/abosco/moto/carb/dellorto/dellorto.html Here is another great info site for your bike (I assume it's a TE610E, the dualsport bike not the pure off-road monster) It's a little quiet these days but feel free to post questions, the members will help out. Buffalodan is one of the new moderators, I'm surprised it's not hoping again already. http://au.groups.yahoo.com/group/TE610E/
left side kicker at that. my left leg has grown an inch in the thigh. ive actually gotten fairly comfortable with it. dellorto phm 40mm carb. i spoke with George at Uptite racing today. he was very receptive and told me the dellorto phm is a very good carb when the bugs are worked out. i wish there was a magic bullet to get it to start reliably every time. id like to race it in a dead engine start gp next weekend. but not if im gonna have to push it to the side and kick it 30 times. on a side topic, has anyone with the 2000 or older 610 noticed the front end just doesnt come up? it will accelerate like mad, but doesnt pick up the front wheel. when it ran, a friend that is a very good wheelie rider couldnt get the tire up. it does have a very long wheelbase......
I just had an intresting thing with my kick-start 610.The needle valve would stick in the closed position,meaning no fuel in the float bowl.It was an intermittent thing.I had pulled the fuel line loose from the tank to check for fuel,but did'nt unscrew the float bowl to check for gas in the carb.I've had needle's stick open before but not closed.Very fustrating!Have sinse changed the needle and seat and the bike is back to its first kick start mode. Hope this helps.
Have sinse changed the needle and seat and the bike is back to its first kick start mode. Hope this helps.[/quote] actually this just frustrates me more.......hmmmm.... i literally can only get it to start by bump starting it down the street. it backfires out the carb, and occaisionaly out the pipe. i dont get it, what gives?
So is it flooded? is there raw fuel in the exhaust? You carb breather lines could be pinched or plugged causing the needle to be held open after shut down flooding the engine. Check the plug if you can get to it easy, to see if it is wet and/or black, is the exhaust color black? One possibility....
Over the past year on my KTM I had my exciter winding on my stator slowly die. The first symptom of poor spark was difficulty in starting. Coinciding with this, I had poor carburetor float valve sealing and I found that my bike would not start unless the level was absolutely perfect. From what I've found out, that is also a symptom of poor spark. With much trouble (seat polishing, new parts, finally I fit a grose-jet), I fixed the carb float issue, and starting and riding was well. Then two weeks ago as I was riding along, it went pop pop pop and then wouldn't run below about 3krpm. Never could start it and holding the plug wire only gave a mild tickle. It left me stranded, and I had to tow it home. If you have resistance specs for your stator windings in your manual, you may want to check them. Usually you can just measure the resistance from the wiring so you don't have to take anything apart. The manual should have a testing procedure. I was able to bring out a multimeter (which I now carry) and the bad exciter winding was 10.2 ohms and a good one is 12.7 ohms on my bike (Kokusan 2k-3 stator). I happened to have a spare stator, so I installed it and all is fine again with the bike. Though I had to bump my pilot circuit because it now burned quite a bit leaner.
yes the plug is black and moist. my tail pipe has black soot on it too. ill pull the carb lines and make sure they are clear. maybe just replace them anyway. thanks. im gonna look into a weak spark too......
I found it really difficult to tell without measuring against knowns. Throughout all of my problems I had a decent looking spark until it suddenly died. I do recall way long ago hooking my coil primary input to my oscilloscope and reading about 150V peaks while kicking. That's the output of the CDI. In hindsight, that is quite low for my bike. Probably a test would be to use the raw spark plug wire against the frame and see how long of a spark it will draw. I'm thinking you should be able to get almost a centimeter. Maybe watch out a little in case it shocks you.
Re the wheeling, I have noticed it needs quite a lot of provocation to wheelie. Not what I expected from an SM but it's a great bike none the less.
