007, A Laverda 1200 Story

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by G 981, Dec 3, 2018.

  1. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    739
    Location:
    West of Glaschu
    Time to start the 007 engine rebuild.
    Although I'm still waiting on the cylinders and pistons I felt there was enough work to justify a bottom end build.

    Refitted all the through bolts and studs
    Selector drum and forks, tensioning mechanism and then main and layshafts.
    Crank and cam chain
    High output oil pump
    Torqued it all down

    Next step will be to build up the primary drive system.

    The bike will be up for sale when finished, but already there is interest in it.

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 09.41.11 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 11.33.25 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 11.33.18 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 11.50.55 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 10.24.15 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-07 11.57.42 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
    Scoozi, Steve G., JagLite and 2 others like this.
  2. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    739
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    As I started the 007 engine build with literally nothing more than a pair of crankcases and a knackered crank I am having to raid deep into my spares supplies. But sometimes I don't have the parts.
    Just ordered some parts I need to fit before I can finish off the primary drive on the left and the alternator/starter clutch assembly on the right side.

    So I went back to project Phoenix (blue bike) engine today and finished off the ignition triggers on the left and the alternator on the right.
    Not much more can be done on this one until I get cylinders, pistons and a head sorted.

    [​IMG]2019-06-08 11.36.15 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-08 11.36.01 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
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  3. Fubars

    Fubars What would Scoobydo?

    Joined:
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    Do you upgrade the charging systems on your rebuilds, or do you use NOS parts? How do the stators on these bikes hold up over time?
  4. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    The series 2 180s and the 120 had the ignition and alternators separated so that the left side housed the ignition pick ups and the right side only the alternator.
    The series 1s had a large bulge on the right as it housed the ignition AND alternator under one cover.
    As a result there was only enough room for a 125 Watt single phase alternator.
    The series 2 and 120s had around 220W 3 phase alternator. These alternators are pretty bulletproof, unlike the series 1 versions.

    I tend to replace the series 2 ignitions with Witt DMC systems. These are optical systems and have around 16 preprogrammed ignition curves built into a switch in the black box.

    Series 1s are given a full makeover, with a Kawasaki 250W 3 phase alternator conversion, modern r/r and an Ignitech programmable ignition via cable link to a PC.
    All wiring related to ignition and alternator is replaced, as these are now around 40 years old and have all sorts of problems.

    Series 2/120 Witt DMC ignition
    [​IMG]2015-09-02 16.23.56 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2015-09-04 13.20.37 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    Series 1 Kawasaki alternator/Ignitech ignition system
    [​IMG]2016-08-04 15.44.18 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2016-08-04 15.44.48 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2016-08-05 10.25.45 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2016-08-05 10.26.17 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2016-08-07 11.34.13 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
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  5. Fubars

    Fubars What would Scoobydo?

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    Outstanding. I'm no expert, but I do appreciate good electrics on a bike and my question popped up while looking at your latest engine photos.
  6. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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  7. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    739
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    Stripped down the head for 007 to get it vapour blasted next week.
    Still no sign of the cylinder block/pistons yet but I have sourced the rings and they are on their way.
    It won't take long to refit the valves and seals so I'll get things ready so that once the cylinder finally turns up I can button it all back up and fit the engine in the frame.
    After that it will soon come together (my favourite part of the restoration work).

    [​IMG]2019-06-14 09.07.45 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-14 09.07.37 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-14 09.08.01 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
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  8. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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  9. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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  10. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    Some small progress today on the blue bike's engine.
    No photos though.
    Fitted good pistons to the conrods and cleaned up the cylinders for fitting tomorrow.
    This will halt progress for a while as I need to find a good replacement head or drop a ton of money on the damaged head from the blown up engine. (snapped off exhaust valve head and shattered valve guide on no. 1 combustion chamber.
    I also have 2 rolling chassis (blue bike plus another) to do a full wiring loom swap as the customer bike has several special add-ons to his loom.
    I bought his blown up bike and am fitting all his goodies to the new(er) bike and making good the blown up one for myself.

    [​IMG]2019-06-18 13.55.33 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-18 13.55.17 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2019-06-18 13.55.07 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
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  11. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    A teeny bit more done today.
    Fitted the case studs to 007's engine.
    Looked out all the parts I need to finish off the bottom end, like primary chain tensioner and adjuster bolt, gear selector mechanism and so on.
    Tomorrow I collect the head from the vapour blaster so I'll be able to lap in the valves and fit new inlet valve oil seals.
    I have been promised the barrels and new pistons back in a week or so. Then I can finish building the engine and move on to fitting the electrics on the rolling chassis.

    [​IMG]2019-06-20 10.42.22 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    Also fitted pistons and barrels to the blue bike's engine. Really need to bite the bullet and get the head repaired, or find a good, cheap used one (ha ha ha).

    [​IMG]2019-06-20 11.10.47 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr

    [​IMG]2018-12-16 10.59.34 by Grant Duguid, on Flickr
    Cogswell, JagLite and steam powered like this.
  12. VX Rider

    VX Rider Long timer

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    wow...out of morbid curiosity I just checked

    a head is 500$; and there appears to be one for sale
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  13. Gedrog

    Gedrog 1000 mile stare a 1000 stories to tell

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    I always like the 1200's but they'r are always out of my price range even now when I look at one I cant help to think what I can do with $9000
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  14. chris a

    chris a Been here awhile

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    Lovely stuff Grant...I was gobsmacked to see how little friction area is on the clutch plates though !!!!
  15. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    An RGS head is rare and very desirable so this drives prices up.
    I would expect to have to pay a minimum of £500 for one, around $650 USD. Full valve, seat and guide job can add another £750, but the one I have has damage including a shattered valve guide, so will be north of that.

    Generally speaking it's rare to get a slipping clutch on a Laverda. I have had it on one of mine in 40 years of owning and riding them.

    Laverdas are and always have been a bit different to mainstream bikes, even the other period Italian stuff. You get it or you don't.
    I get it, and riding a 4 cylinder bike leaves me cold. I love the tortured soul of a 180 triple or the howl of a 120.
    Pricewise they are a stone cold bargain compared to a 750SS or 900SS Ducati.
  16. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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  17. Chickenstrip

    Chickenstrip Long timer

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    Very nice! Thanks for providing the comparison pics. For those of us, like me, who can only imagine what vapor cleaning is: https://ecolink.com/info/what-is-vapor-pressure-cleaning/

    I'm guessing that one of the process's benefits is that no damage to critical mating surfaces can happen as it's non-abrasive. Is masking needed?
    hidn40 likes this.
  18. G 981

    G 981 Been here awhile

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    Vapour blasting is a gentler process, both on the media used and the metal being blasted, compared to, for example, glass bead blasting.
    Normal blasting leads to shattered beads and the media can get stuck in every nook and cranny.
    Basically vapour blasting is like a garden hose that also carries some media, in this case also glass beads.
    The beads last a lot longer as the water calms things down.
    It can't remove as much crud as glass bead/no water blasting, and might struggle to remove paint from the parts being blasted, but the finish on bare alloy is superb and it's so much easier to clean off in the parts washer. With bead blasting I had to re-tap every threaded hole in the parts being blasted. With vapour blasting I have not needed to do that, although I still thoroughly check and clean everywhere.
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  19. MZRider

    MZRider Neo-Luddite

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    If done with low pressure (15 psi) and high volume, glass bead blasting doesn't lead to shattered or embedded beads and leaves a finish very similar to vapor blasting. The shop that does my engine, transmission and rear drive parts plugs every hole and masks off areas where beads shouldn't go, along with meticulous cleaning afterwards.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  20. nickguzzi

    nickguzzi Long timer

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    I have used glass beads on the guzzi too, there was a couple at work - nice results, but I put a fastener in every threaded hole made a lot blanking plates/plugs, then scrubbed several times in the parts washer.

    There was a guy on the Yamaha fj site, full of can do ideas, but actually no idea at all. He coated everything in ceramic coating. Just got the ceramic powder and painted it on. The engine internals lasted about 100 miles.