'07 DL-1000 Charging problem?

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Mulewright, Sep 2, 2011.

  1. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    Here's a odd one for you "Guru's".... feel free to advise, comment, or make fun of me.....

    S.O.P. of the bike is a daily commute of 30~50 miles a day some heavy city traffic (10~15 mi.), moderate urban, and interstate(18~25 mi.)
    About every 4th or 5th day Fred is slow spinning over in the mornings, occasionaly the clock looses it setting, indicating to me a low voltage condition.
    Battery replaced 3.5 mos. ago w/ a Bikemaster AGM type battery.
    When I return for the day when this occours I put my Taper / Trickel charger on it for aprox. 3~4 hrs. and things are well again the next morning at start up.
    Hmmmmm....
    A friend owns a starter / alt. repair shop so I dropped by this afternoon & checked it with his System Tester.
    The results: 12.2v key off, 12.4 at idle (1,000rpm), at 5k 12.8v and at any speed over 3k rpm it shows what looks like enough amp output to have about 10amps over the electrical load (lights, cooling fan, fuel pump, EFI, etc.). Not being familiar with bike charging systems, He does not care to make any suggestions or recomendations.
    This sounds low to me but some of the early M.B. systems when functioning properly, do not top 13.2v, so knowing this A small bit of doubt enters my mind as to weather I have a problem or, with the around town riding at the end of my commute, am I just not keeping the rev's up and the batttery is being drained as a result. On 35~ 250 mile interstate journeys there is no problem.
    The 'Stealership suggests a rectifier then a regulator to see if that fixes it.... Without further diagnosis from someone more experienced with these bikes I'm not going to throw money at it and hope it fixes it.

    Let the comments flow Folks! I'm up for anything that might help....:ear
    #1
  2. BornAgain

    BornAgain Been here awhile

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    Output voltage is kinda low should be around 13vdc or higher. I think I would try new regulator. Stators probably good with 10 amps.
    #2
  3. motosickle2000

    motosickle2000 Been here awhile

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    Your DL1000 should put out 14.5V at 5000 RPM. This test should be run after the battery is fully charged.

    Before replacing very expensive components, I would do some troubleshooting. Your clock uses very little power and should never lose the time even if the voltage drops very low. This says to me that you may have a loose or corroded connection. Check your battery terminals first. If you have other stuff connected to your battery terminals disconnect it. You want only the battery cables connected. This includes disconnecting all electrical accessories that you may have installed. You can do this by removing the fuses. Clean the positive and negative battery terminals and torque them down tight. Charge your battery fully first. Start your bike and run it at 5000 RPM. If it reads less than this, then you have a problem with your alternator or regulator.

    There is a very good troubleshooting procedure in the DL1000 manual. If you are not familiar with electrical testing, you should consult a friend who is.

    The manual tells you to disconnect your regulator and run some resistance tests on the stator coils. It also has you run the bike without the regulator connected and measure the alternator output. I think it is about 80VAC, but you should check the manual. If this checks out, you should check your stator is good and you should check the regulator.

    The regulator on the DL1000s changed on the '04 and later DL1000s and is the same regulator as used on the DL650s. Make sure the the DL1000 manual matches your model because the tshoot procedure is different. Run through the tshoot in the manual for the voltage regulator.

    If that checks out, there is one last very unusual thing that can happen to the DL1000. The magnets can come unglued from the rotor. Normally they are spaced at 120 degrees and attached with epoxy , but they can come loose and all rotate until they are randomly distributed, or all on one position on the rotor. You can tell this when you diassemble the alternator. You can also tell if any of the stator coils are toasted - they will look black. The magnets moving is rare, so this should be checked last.

    In your case, since your clock is being reset - I think you have a connection problem. Good luck!
    #3
  4. simmersonwheels

    simmersonwheels Asleep at Switch

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    If you have added any electrical accessories remove them from the system. As other poster said, clean battery terminals with a small file, and the cable leads with emery or scotchbrite. The regulator rectifier are a single unit, and are a relatively commo failure item. When the fail voltage usually gets too high, not low, but both are possible. If possible repeat the voltage test with another good battery. If the issue persists you're wasting time and money if you don't test the individual components in the charging system in the logical manner in the manual prior to buying parts,
    Simon
    #4
  5. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    Thanks for the replys so far.
    Today I tightened up all related connections, trickel charged the battery 'till fully charged, and as that the Cat knocked my Simson meter off the table, had no way to do any "Tests" in any meaningfull way after compleating the above tasks.
    So... I did the 'poor dummy" test.... left the trickel charger on it's taper charge setting, fired the beast up and the charger shut itself off when engine speed was over 1,500 rpm's.... indicating it sensed the battery was fully charged. After 20 or so seconds at idle (1050 rpm) it came back on.
    I decided to re-set the idle speed to 1350 rpm and the charger did not come back on untill 1.5 min. at the higher idle.
    As that I am curently dealing with the "Lee" storm's weather for today thru Monday, I suppose I'll find out by mid next week if it's "fixed" or not. I will post an update then....
    Thanks again for the suggestions / guidance!!!!! :clap
    #5
  6. NortwestRider

    NortwestRider TRIPOD ADVENTURER !!

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  7. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    No problems so far since increasing the hot idle speed.....
    I went by a buddy's this afternoon and did a real eye opening test.........
    Still not charging over 13V, amps are o.k., pulled the Bikemaster agv batt. out and put in a 4 y.o. conventional battery........ 14.6v, and higher amps in charge mode tests on output.
    Next a new Deka brand agm battery...... 12.7v. Amps o.k. with both.
    Hmmmmmm? time for more research........
    After calling a battery distributor's tech line, I found that (according to him) that this was a relitively "normal" occourance......... as long as the output is over 12.2V and the amps are good I should not worry about it.
    He stated something to do with the rate of charge the different types of batteries would accept as the reason for the variance in output readings.
    Sounded convincing.......
    Anyone more experienced than me care to weigh in on this one?:ear
    #7
  8. NortwestRider

    NortwestRider TRIPOD ADVENTURER !!

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    Doesn't sound right to me.My RR is putting out 15.34V at idle UNTIL I hook up the battery ( MC or Car battery) and it drops to 12.5V.The type of battery should NOT matter,unless the battery is bad !!.I'm pulling off my mag cover on Saturday and see whats going on.Go over to stromtroopers and find GreyWolf,he can tell you all that you want/need to know.
    #8
  9. PeterW

    PeterW Long timer

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    The permanent magnets in the DL 1000 flywheel have been known to come loose and pack together.

    IF that's happened you can move them back into place and glue them down with something stronger than spit ;)

    Be careful, ceramic and they'll break pretty easilly.

    Pete
    #9
    dtysdalx2 likes this.
  10. Bandit33

    Bandit33 Adventurer

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    The rectifier went bad on my 03 DL1000 at around 40,000 miles, .....in the middle of a road trip,......in the NM desert..... I did eventually get home, became an adventure. The battery started discharging as I rode, would keep running as long as I kept the revs up. When I stopped for gas the battery was too dead to restart, got a jump-start , the bike got me to Amarillo, got a new battery and a small charger,.....anyway after finally getting home with a fair amount of struggle, found out the rectifier had gone bad. The stator was fine according to the mechanic.

    Don
    #10
  11. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    After purchasing a New multimeter, I repeated the voltage tests today and the results are:
    12.6v key off no load.
    14.8v @ 5k rpm
    14.4v @ 3k rpm
    12.4v @ 1050rpm
    Unplug v/r and test the 3 black input leads @ 5k rpm ....
    L-1: 78.6v
    L-2: 78.6v
    L-3: 78.9v

    Looks like it "fixed itself" after I cleaned & re-tightened All of the various electrical connections.:clap

    As mentioned in a reply above, "Check the Little Shit First"!

    Thank You to all posting suggestions / help!!!!!!!!!! :thumb
    #11
  12. NortwestRider

    NortwestRider TRIPOD ADVENTURER !!

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    Wish I was that lucky !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    #12
  13. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    Battery went flat again today.
    Did the checks and thr results were:
    38.4v from the stator leads, (uniform)
    Voltage 12.8v.
    Sounds like a magnet issue to me.
    I will go to the dealer tomorrow after work to see about a possable "Goodwill" warrenty prospect from the big S.
    Details as they occour.

    Damn the Luck!:kboom
    #13
  14. lharrell79

    lharrell79 Been here awhile

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    I had an 02 R6 for 53000 miles. Towards the end, it was giving me charging fits. My problems were very similar to yours. It would look fine on the meter, and I would think everything was normal, go for ride, and the next day the battery would be dead. I finally narrowed it down to the rectifier/regulator. When the bike was cold, it would work great. Once the bike got hot, and the R/R got hot, the R/R would freak out, and stop working. Just something to think about. Try taking readings while the bike is cold, then get it good and hot, and take another set of readings.

    Lucas
    #14
  15. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    It's all "Done" now.....
    Forget about the big "S" doing a damn thing under Good Will... :kboom
    They are most polite but, don't care, don't have a problem known to them and have never heard of magnets coming off before period, and recomend I take it to the dealership for repair...
    So...
    I, (out of MY pocket) ended up replacing the stator (2 new out of the box bad ones included at no extra cost for your enjoyment...) and the flywheel with O.E. parts.
    My local dealer DID sell me whatever I needed for dead cost + 10% and were kinda pissed at Suzuki about how they handled my specific case.
    I went with a upgraded Mofset voltage regulator kit and now idle @ 1175 rpm at 13.9v dc and 14.48v @ 5000 rpm.
    Things are as good as they get at this time.
    I hope my experiences help someone else to save a lot of time & aggravation in the future.:topes
    #15
  16. Flashmo

    Flashmo Whatever...

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    You're PISSED because Suzuki would not replace your 4 year old charging system? I ride an '07, I would never expect help from the factory on any issue at this point.
    #16
  17. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    Nah,.... not pissed ~ too strong a phrase...
    more like "Miffed"...... but only because when this started the bike has 1,750 miles on it & Suzuki admitted it had been in the shop twice before when owned by the original purchaser, first time at 550 miles, for charging system "Issues"...
    #17
  18. Flashmo

    Flashmo Whatever...

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    That makes more sense. Any more problems since the parts swap?
    #18
  19. Mulewright

    Mulewright Old Fart/Journeyman

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    No pain, No strain since the last stator went in....
    Putting out good voltage & around 38 amps peak charge at this time.
    1st bad one was Suzuki, 2nd one Electromotive... 3rd one I aquired from RealShelby that came off his when he put the external alternator setup on His.
    #19
  20. NortwestRider

    NortwestRider TRIPOD ADVENTURER !!

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    I'm done with my 07,2 stators,2 RR's and ALOT of dead time on the side of the road.It's fine now amd I ride it everyday BUT I don't trust it and never will,all of this in 36,000 miles!!!!.Thanks again RealShelby for all your help!!!!.
    #20