1150 GS-GSA tail section swap

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by PaleHearse, Feb 23, 2007.

  1. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Roadminge and I are going to perform a tail section swap this weekend/next week. I'm not sure how many of the folks here have done this or are considering doing this, bit I thought it might be helpful to post some photos and let any who are interested follow along. This thread is actually being set up to help us communicate during this as we're doing it virtually due to distance.

    I'll probably do most of the initial photo work tonight and just keep editing this front page to show the steps. Roadminge will no doubt do the same from his end to show any issues he has with fitment.

    I don't expect too many difficulties as I actually have an 1150GS standard next to the GSA now.. and in looking at it, this swap is going to be pretty straight forward.

    Have a great weekend gang.... watch for updates.
    #1
  2. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Ok gang.. here we go.

    First of all, this swap would be best done at a BMW dealer... not by the dealer mind you.. just sitting in front of their shop. The reason is that you'll want to swap the lock barel's out and you need a special key to do that.. at least that's what I'm told. My counterpart on the other end may know a "secret hand shake" that he'll tell us about, but I had my barel removed at my local shop. You'll only need a couple zipties and your BMW tool kit to accomplish this in 20 minutes in the parking lot... With one excepton.
    You will need a special torx tool to remove the helmet lock of the GSA.

    If your on the GSA end of the swap (as I am) it will cost you an additional coin because you'll need one extra barel and will have to have it keyed. The reason for this is that the GSA uses the helmet lock as the seat release. Since this is a seperate lock on the 1150GS, you'll need a barel for this lock.

    Now, to the swap:

    Starting with me, removing the hardware from the GSA is as follows:

    First remove the seat. Under the seat at the front mount are 2 blocks.

    [​IMG]

    The rubber knobs are attached to a bracket that needs to be removed. Under this bracket are the front screws for the seat blocks underneath.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the seat mount screws, then the 4 screws for the forward seat blocks.

    On the GS standard:

    On the standard GS, the seat is attached by 4 blocks with 2 levels of seat height adjustment.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Both the rear blocks on the GS standard rest on spacers that position them inboard about 3/4 of an inch.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    As these spacers are not used in the GSA, they should be removed and swapped as well. The screws (bolts in the case of the GS), will also have to be accessed from underneath.. so no getting away from lowering the fender for either bike.

    On the Port side rear (Port is left as your sitting on the bike looking at the bow...er.. front wheel) block you can see the locking mechanism of the standard GS. The locking mechanism is a drawbar type lock that simultaniously opens both the front seat lock as well as the rear seat/tool box lock.

    [​IMG]

    You can see that the seat lock runs to the outboard side of the port rear seat block. This entire locking mechanism will also need to be removed. Removing this tail section is basically the same as for the GSA. 6 bolts. The 2 front bolts on either side attach the grab strap (that I never used once in 6 years).

    Probably the most important thing here is that there are 2 small bronze bushings in the grab strap bolt holes. These bushings should be removed or taped over as they may fall out during shipping or if the tail section is turned over prior to being screwed in place.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    The photo below shows the rear bolt of the locking mechanism and the seat lock in it's entirety.

    [​IMG]

    Back to the GSA:

    With the front seat mount and mount blocks removed, we move to the rear seat lock mechanism.

    [​IMG]

    As discussed previously, the helmet lock is the seat lock. There is a cable running upwards to the lock that releases the seat when turned. The most difficult thing here is that you will need one special tool to remove this lock. Note the protrusion in the center of the torx screw in the photo below.

    [​IMG]

    The cable is routed upwards along the frame through a small hole in the seat lock mechanism.

    [​IMG]

    The seat lock cable is easially removed by simply moving the lever by hand and removing the cable. Pry up gently with a screwdriver to remove the cable sheath from the connection then simply slip the cable end upand off the end of the arm. Putting this back on can be done a number of ways.. but doing this in reverse order is probably the best way. Below is a photo showing the cable routing hole.

    [​IMG]

    You'll notice the screws to this are not run in from the top, but instead are run in from the bottom. You'll need to get at them and the easiest way is to drop the rear fender.

    [​IMG]

    To drop the fender, you'll need to remove all the screws from the tail section (aluminum piece on the tail)



    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I had to remove these screws for shipping, so I put them in blue tape and taped them to the rear of the tail section. When you open this package, note that 2 of the screws have washers on them.

    [​IMG]

    This was BMW's attempt to keep them from digging into the rear fender. Such was not the case on my bike as the screws are still too long. You may want to cut them down a bit.
    The 2 screws with washers go in the forward most of the 4 holes in the back of the tail section. There will be a photo of this later.

    With these 6 screws removed, you should now look to where the fender seperates front half to back half. You'll see to phillips head screws, one on either side.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Once the screws are removed, the securing block can be removed from each side.

    [​IMG]

    Set these aside so you don't loose them.

    With the securing blocks removed, simply gently press the fender downwards. The wireing for the rear light will keep this from lowering completely.

    [​IMG]

    You'll now have enough room to get at the seat lock mechanism from underneath.

    [​IMG]

    Remove the 4 screws and set aside. The photo beolw shows the nicks in the fender made by the 2 forward most of the back 4 tail section screws (the ones with the washers). If you have a thread file, or a nut with the correct threads, you can cut these bolts down without too much difficulty. If you have quite a few metric bolts lying around, you may even have a short one you can use.

    [​IMG]


    That's basically it. I ran screws into the seat lock, and the rest of the screws have been taped into the holes they came out of.

    [​IMG]

    Items of note:

    When you install the seat lock, you will install it in the 3rd hole from the front.

    [​IMG]

    I opened the BMW tool roll for the GSA and didn't see any special tools exclusive to the GSA, so I sent all of that along with the seat. There is a tire repair kit there also, but note, this kit has been sitting unused for 5 years. Be sure to check it to make sure the glue and such is still viable.

    [​IMG]

    Putting it back together shouldn't take very long at all. Let me know if you have any other quesstions that weren't covered.
    #2
  3. RoadMinge

    RoadMinge Long timer

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    Awesome guide, I will take my parts off today
    #3
  4. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Cool.. let me know if you need any photos right away. I'm going to take a few now and try and get them added to the above thread in a couple hours... but I'm sure you'll have some better shots of your own as you start to take things apart. Don't worry too much about photos if your not equipped to post them.. I'll be happy to post the assembly photos for posterity.
    #4
  5. meatsack

    meatsack Moto-idiot

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    Just thought I'd add that no special key is needed to remove the lock cylinder, just a small flat-blade screw driver.
    Here's a link to the thread I started on doing this where palehearse and kongo figured this out.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207685

    Cheers! :freaky
    #5
  6. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Outstanding.. thanks for the linkey... this is exactly why we did this as a thread... thanks.
    #6
  7. pbansen

    pbansen Hosehead Supporter

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    When I did this swap, we found that we were able to remove the "security" Torx screw holding the helmet lock with a flat-bladed screwdriver sort of wedged into the well of the Torx screw.

    When I installed the helmet lock on my bike, I think I replaced the security Torx with a standard Torx screw to simplify life. When a helmet is locked onto the thing, you'd have to be very determined to remove the unit anyway, even with a Torx driver.
    #7
  8. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Cool.. Hey Minge.. I updated the thread with a couple new photos showing the brackets for the seat lock, and also the bushings in the GS tailsection.
    #8
  9. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Cool.. thanks. Not sure how Roadminge will do it, or if he even has the security version. The seat lock on my 01 GS is just an allen head.

    He's armed with some great information about the lock though.. I'mlooking forward to putting that to good use as well when I get the seat lock.
    #9
  10. RoadMinge

    RoadMinge Long timer

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    regular allen heads on my helmet or seat locks, the lock itself came out easily with a small flat bladed screw driver and my key inserted in the lock, I then wrapped electrical tape around the lock tumblers and removed the key
    #10
  11. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    See.. rocket scientist material you are.. :evil
    #11
  12. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    How did things go Minge? Get things sent off ok?
    #12
  13. AdventureDave

    AdventureDave MMMMM Bundy!

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    My Australian '04 GS Adv came with the special tool required in the tool kit - it took me a while to work out what it was for (I obviously didn't look too hard :scratch) !

    Cheers

    David
    #13
  14. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Do you recall what the tool was for, what it looked like? Was it an oval plastic clip looking thing, or a half round metal wrench with nubs sticking out one side?
    #14
  15. TheBlueFrog

    TheBlueFrog Adventurer

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    I'm switching my '03 GSA from a bench to GS dual seats, can a dealer
    order the parts I need for the seat switch? Looking at fiches of the
    two didn't seem real clear.

    tia
    #15
  16. Norsman

    Norsman ...a GSophile

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    Any pics of the final product?
    #16
  17. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Yes.. they can. If you like I can give you all the part numbers...

    You'll need the 4 "serrated adjustment" blocks that actually hold the seat on, the 2 rear brackets that hold the 2 serrated adjustment blocks in a slightly inboard position, the seat lock The tail section and the helmet lock.

    Aside from that, it's just the assorted screws of appropriate length...and the 2 seats of course. A very simple swap.

    You will not need a tool tray if you don't want to use it. Your tool roll will fit fine in the space where the tool tray used to be, or you can get a touratech tool roll... that's what I did.
    #17
  18. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    I was holding off till I got all the tail section parts fro Minge...

    Hey Minge... did you take any photos of the GSA assembly?

    I'll update the photo spread in a couple days Norsman. It was a very simple swap.. you should have no trouble with it.
    #18
  19. TheBlueFrog

    TheBlueFrog Adventurer

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    If it's not too much trouble I'd really appreciate it! I'm new to the BMW
    world and can use any help. We've got a pretty good dealer here that
    I'm getting to know.
    #19
  20. PaleHearse

    PaleHearse Road Ranger

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    Please double check these with your dealers microfiche as I'm typing this off from a hand written list... and you know how successful that usually is.

    :lol3

    Main parts:
    Bracket: 2 each, located below the rear serrated adjustment blocks
    46-51-2-314-464

    Serrated adjustment: 4 each
    52-53-2-313-291

    Seat lock: 1 each
    51-25-2-313-405

    Those are the main parts..

    Now, the butload of fasteners.. I'll try and remember what goes where, but again, double check as I don't have the exploded diagram in front of me...

    Nut for bracket: 4 each
    07-11-9-913-456

    Bolt for bracket: 4 each
    07-11-9-922-832

    Screws... er for something (tail section I think): M6x20: 4
    11-13-1-460-677*

    Screws...ah.. for something else: fillister head m6x16 zns: 2 each
    07-11-9-901-438*

    Screws, for the tail light assembly I think. : fillister head m6x30-8.8: 4 each
    7-11-9-900-847*

    screws for the tail section mid: fillister head m6x60: 2 each
    07-11-9-919-963*

    Screws for the adjustment blocks: fillister head m5x16: 8 each
    07-11-9-900-555

    Screw for one side of lock mechanism: 1 each
    34-51-2-335-332

    Screw for other side of lock mechanism: 1 each
    13-90-1-718-262

    Again, these are the parts for the 1150 GS standard tail section.
    #20