1966 Ducati Monza 250 Project “No Clue”

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by folknride, Dec 25, 2017.

  1. mikeysduck

    mikeysduck Slow Ride to Nowhere

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    Re: worn out Amal's. An old school Norton trick was to bore out the throttle body and sleeve it with a stainless liner. Add a matching Mikuni slide and needle. Where do you get the machine work done, or find the correct slide, needle? No idea.
    #21
  2. folknride

    folknride Old Adventurer

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    That Amal that’s on it looks pretty rough, and there’s no choke circuit so the cable is taped to the clutch cable - not exactly concourse quality.
    I just got on motoscrubs yesterday. Did a search but didn’t find that topic. Thanks for the link. Also tried bevel heaven.
    And of course there’s only so much I should buy without the bike in hand.
    One inmate suggested I crack the cases and clean out any sludge before running it, to protect main bearings. Sounds like a good idea, but is there any other way to clean out a motor after sitting for 30 years? Fill with varsol and drain several times?


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    #22
  3. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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    I wouldn't use varsol, you don't want clean bearings that oil may not adhere to on your first start up. I have flushed motors with cheap oil, especially if I have managed to sink the bike in a creek or otherwise contaminated the oil.
    Pour it in, in your case, kick it over with out the plug, drain and repeat as you deem necessary. Doesn't even have to be the correct oil for the bike, just any old oil will do. Then put in your choice of good stuff.


    Also, varsol in your oil pump would be bad, you might lose your prime and have no oil pressure on start up, and you would be pumping varsol when you need oil
    #23
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  4. norton73

    norton73 drinkin'

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    Very few people are resleeving Amals any more. I think AMR in AZ is about the last place. These days Amal is making new carbs and the price is not too much more than resleeving.
    I'd go with a mikuni unless originality was important.
    #24
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  5. folknride

    folknride Old Adventurer

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    And I’ve read that the oil pump is a know weak spot on these bikes. True?


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    #25
  6. MotoChuck250

    MotoChuck250 Not older than dirt

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    The oil pump is a bit week. If the engine is reving at a minimum of about 3500 rpm the engine is healthy and happy. It is getting enough oil. If you run the engine under load below 3500 rpm for extended periods of time, the engine will start to suffer from lack of oil. This mostly affects the big end of the crank and you can find a lot of old engines where the bottom end is gone from this problem.

    I have never heard that idling will cause problems on these engines but you don't want to "lug" the narrow case motors.
    #26
  7. MotoChuck250

    MotoChuck250 Not older than dirt

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    Splitting the cases on these bikes is a procedure that requires quite a lot of care. The location of each shim in the cases is very important. You probably want to recheck the end play on the crank afterwards if you are going to work on the crank. You may be required to reshim the crank upon reassembly.

    I am not saying don't split the cases, but if you do then be ready to make sure that you get them back together with the appropriate tolerances.
    #27
  8. Lomax

    Lomax Nanu-Nanu Adventurer

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    Reviving a bit of an old thread as I just picked up a 65 250 Monza. I did find that Sudco has a Mikuni kit and adapter on the carb question. I sure did like the Mikuni when I replaced the Amal's on the Norton. :lol3

    Mine came in pretty good shape but need something to make it run right. It backfires a lot and will not idle. As you know all Carburetor problems have their basis in electrical issues and vice versus. :lol3

    Here is where I am starting (yea I know Cheater) and it should be a blast when properly sorted. I am exited to get this going but don't have any time right now. I am going to cheat further as there is a guy who races these Duc singles and I am going to have him go over it and make everything right.

    [​IMG]

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    Anyone have any side cover Monza 250 decals ?? :y0!

    QUESTION: Did the 65 have a VIN on the frame, if so where ?
    #28
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  9. dpforth

    dpforth no inline fours

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    Road and Race?
    #29
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  10. Lomax

    Lomax Nanu-Nanu Adventurer

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    Thank you. They do have the proper ones but they are Red on white. I suppose that would work on the Red covers ???

    Let me see if they will ship over here to the colonies.
    #30
  11. DesmoDog

    DesmoDog Desmo was my dog. RIP big guy.

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    CHEATER!

    Road and Race will be happy to ship parts to the US.

    The 250 most likely does not have a VIN on the frame. They came with foil tags that had info typed onto them, most of the tags fell off ages ago. You can buy replacements, all you need to do then is find a Selectric typewriter and add the info you need. Bevel Heaven carried them last I looked. They also carry some decals, not sure if they have the 250 set you're looking for.

    Beware cheap graphics. A lot of places have them printed on cheap rectangular clear backing. You don't want that. You want the die-cut real deal which costs a lot more.

    There are a boatload ofplaces that carry the various parts for these. Most of them are not in the US, but don't let that bother you. WIth exchange rates it's sometimes cheaper to pay the shipping. Moto Guzzino has a lot of parts that will work on it too, though it would mostly be the generic stuff that was used on various Italian makes back in the day.
    #31
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  12. jas67

    jas67 Long timer

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    Has anyone on here used the
    Electrex 12 Volt Alternator for these bikes?

    I'm thinking about a 12-volt conversion so I can run some decent lighting and be seen. They also offer a kit with 12 volt digital CDI ignition.

    There is also the Elektronik-Sachse 12V Digital Ignition for Ducati Singles, which looks like it much more configurable, and gives a nice ignition retard at crank speeds for easier, kick-back free, starting.

    The best looking solution looks like the Elektronik-Sachse ignition with the Electrex 12-volt alternator, which is also the most expensive (€333.35 for the alternator, and €280 for the ignition, about $761 USD total + shipping).
    #32
  13. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    What benefit are you looking to get out of 12v? Are you wanting to charge your phone or have heated gear on an old small, single cylinder?
    #33
  14. jas67

    jas67 Long timer

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    I want bright lights, esp. the headlight. Yes, there are some 6V LED bulbs I can put in the tail light, they're no where near as bright as good 12V ones. Any H4 headlight bulb I found needs at least 9V. I actually purchased a 6-12V DC-DC converter, but, my stock alternator puts out such little current that I'm not charging the battery if the pitiful 25W incandescent headlight is on. I've resorted to a bicycle LED headlight on flash mode strapped to the handlebars to be seen, and keep the candle-bright headlight off.

    I have an H4 reflector assembly that'll go in the headlight. I want to put a nice bright H4 LED in it and need 12V to power it.

    I also want easier starting, which the Elektronik-Sachse ignition should provide, along with, likely better running. If I'm going to make the jump to buy the Elektronik-Sachse ignition, I might as well do the 12V conversion and buy the 12V version of the ignitiion at the same time.

    I'll keep all the stock parts. If I ever sell the Monza, which I'll do if I ever get the Diana or Mach 3 that I want,, I'll it back stock, and use all the upgraded goodies on the Diana.

    Problem is, I don't ride it enough to justify the nearly $800 expense, though, maybe with the upgrades, I might ride it more. :dunno
    #34
  15. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    You can get 6V H4 bulbs. They draw 55-60W, though. There's 6V LED headlight options too. All much cheaper than converting and entire electrical system just for a little extra lighting. I found a company that made LED headlights for the british bikes that looked promising. I need to find that site again. Maybe it was these: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/led-bulbs-especially-for-motorcycles-shop.php

    Easier starting isn't necessarily ignition based, either. Valve adjustment and carb tuning. The best thing you can do is get away from that nasty side bowl Del, if you still have it, and go with a newer carb. I have the same thinking as you, haha. Maybe if I upgrade all this crap, I'll want to ride it more!
    #35
  16. R1100purist

    R1100purist Horizontally opposed twin dude

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    #36
  17. folknride

    folknride Old Adventurer

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    Wow - that is a beauty - I hope mine will look half that good.
    Hope you get the performance sorted out.
    #37
  18. pekingduck

    pekingduck Been here awhile

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    I know you had a lot of carb advice, but I'll throw my 2 cents in. I've had Amals on a couple bikes and they were easy to start and very forgiving jetting-wise. Many people raced with Amal Concentrics, and they are actually standard on the 1972-1973 350 Road that were Spanish-built but sold in the US.
    #38
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