1972 CB350F... Cliche Cafe/Brat Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by TheGr8Pumpkin, Jul 25, 2017.

  1. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2014
    Oddometer:
    100
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Yes! lots of updates actually. . . I've been so busy trying to get this thing going in my free time, that I haven't taken time to update anyone on the build.

    First, I put on new shocks and refaced the gauges.

    Then I had to solve my motor problem with the broken spark plug and broken EZ out.

    I talked to my local motorcycle machine shop about removing the broken spark plug and re-machining the hole, but they quoted me $2,500 . . . So, I went onto craigslist facebook marketplace etc. to see if there were any motors that would work. Luckily, I found another CB350f that had gone through a couple pretty rough looking cosmetic "restorations." But, this one had a running motor! - $250 bucks.

    I'm expecting to have the bike running, but not street legal, in a couple weeks *aggressively knocks on wood.*

    I expect to switch the motors this weekend and get the the wiring all set up very soon after. I ordered and received an M-unit, which I'm pretty excited to hook up.

    I also refaced the speedo and tach, just to add some more interesting pictures, as i didn't get any good ones of the new parts/engine bike.

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    #41
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  2. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    More pics

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    #42
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  3. Pezz_gs

    Pezz_gs Cant ride for crap

    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2004
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    5,063
    Location:
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    That's a great update :clap

    So glad you persevered with the 4 cylinders

    Looking forward to more. :ear
    #43
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  4. MATTY

    MATTY BORDER RAIDER

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Oddometer:
    3,335
    Location:
    England On the Scotish border
    De rusting things! I use molasses and water 9 parts water 1 part molasses, Its slow but thats my work pace anyway its also harmless apart from the sweet sickly odor and its thorough in removing rust with no work to mention and no abrasion or damage, no need for power like electrolysis just stick it in a tank put the parts in de greased and leave to to work a few days bring parts out wash them with water remove any orange surface gluck with a scrubbing brush and get ready for painting or polishing up. If its still not clean enough repeat and repeat until it comes good.
    I rarely need more than two three day soaks to clean up the worst rust off stuff.

    #44
  5. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Well, the bike has been fired up literally, and will only run for a short time. My plan is to clean the carbs and switch out the main jet for a larger number. I already have a set of #98 jets I think will work well.
    In the mean time, I wired up all the turn signals, headlight and brake light.

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    #45
    shinyribs, GR0NK, Pezz_gs and 2 others like this.
  6. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Oct 8, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Rebuilt front brake and new exhaust. Should be putting the carb rebuilds in next week and then it should be all done!

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    #46
  7. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    So, when I went to clean the carbs, put the larger jets and new float needles in, the float needles in the rebuild kit from 4into1 are slightly larger than the old needles. They fit, but the point at which they contact the float is higher (or really lower) than it would be on the same tang bend with the old needles. has anyone used these new float needles and a have a spec for float height?
    #47
  8. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    I should note that I played around with a lot of gasoline and adjusting yesterday to get them right and couldn't quite set them to where they wouldn't leak but would also have enough gas to run.
    #48
  9. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Day 2 messing with the new float needles and I don't think they will work. Looks like I will probably polish up the old ones and see how they do.
    #49
  10. mikejjmay

    mikejjmay Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,074
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    How did you end up liking the appliance paint? I usually use regular rustoleum too, but heard good things. Seems like it dries harder than the normal one?
    #50
  11. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    I wish I had used the appliance stuff on the frame. Way better than any other paint I have used. I would like to test how well it reacts to heat.
    #51
  12. kenny robert

    kenny robert Long timer

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    where are the carbs leaking from?
    you dont need to put the float bowls on to know if the needle ans seat will shut off
    just lifting the float up gently till the spring loaded tip is partially compressed will shut off the flow if all is well
    why are you changing jets already ?
    also you are going to lose power without the airbox '
    the rubber connector to the airbox is a( precisely designed for best all around power) ,velocity stack
    without them the tune of the power is messed up
    but before you can do any carb tuning at all you must make sure the ignition is 100% as new in function
    the only way you can know if you need larger main jets is to ride the bike and test
    the factory service manual tells how to set float levels
    if the carbs are leaking out the overflow tubes then they could be split
    the brass standpipe in the bowls will split if the carbs stood with water in them in a freeze,see
    the foat needle and seat is a very precise perfect metal on metal fit to seal
    if you "polish" them they will for sure leak
    #52
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  13. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    ill check to see if the bowls hold gas when they are not attached to the carbs, but I have already checked to make sure that the needles will seal with the bowls off while applying slight pressure. Thanks for the idea.
    #53
  14. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Had some wet fouling on the plugs. It was definitely gas fouling, I went ahead and checked the compression and it was pretty much perfect. I have a full dynatek electronic ignition kit on the way so we will see how much that helps.
    #54
  15. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    confirmed today that the overflow tubes are air tight. I think one of the new float valves just isn't working right.
    #55
  16. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Had to take a long break on working on the bike for an uptick in work, but dynatek ignition and new dyna coils have been installed. Also, since I've done the rest of this bike the "right" way, I went ahead and order OEM honda float needle valves to once and for all solve the leaking overflow tubes. Should be riding it around soon.
    #56
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  17. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Of course, the OEM parts fixed the whole issue. Bike is running now, but one cylinder is not firing. I know that is is because gas is not getting into the cylinder. I took off the air intake for that cylinder's carb and shot starting fluid in there and it started right up. I also know that the float level is high enough for the jets to be getting fuel as I tested using the clear tube and drain plug method. Any ideas on why one carb would not be feeding gas into the cylinder? I'm also fairly sure that it is not a blocked passage, as I cleaned the passages out very well with carb cleaner and high pressure air.
    #57
  18. hoodellyhoo

    hoodellyhoo Dummy

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    Location:
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    Is the cylinder not firing at all? Or it only cutting out at idle?
    #58
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  19. everready

    everready Stuck in Ohio....Ugh!!!

    Joined:
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    I think he means one cylinder is not *running*. He thinks it's not getting gas.

    Can you switch the fuel lines to the carbs to see if that makes a change?
    #59
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  20. TheGr8Pumpkin

    TheGr8Pumpkin Been here awhile

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    Feeling the exhausts, I can tell that the #4 cylinder is not running at all. Could just be at idlle, but i havent held it up high in the revs long enough to determine if #4 runs at all. The #4 exhaust isn't warm at all and the other 3 are hot enough that I can only touch them for a second. I don't think it is a fuel line issue because there is only one fuel line and I know that fuel is getting to the #4 carb based on checking the float level with a tube linked to the drain screw

    I do know that #4 will run if I shoot some starting fluid into the intake
    #60