1974 Handle Bar Master Cylinder.

Who has done it? Pics? Would you do it again?

A thread I have saved since I need to do this myself...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=742109

Thanks for the link! I'm not digging the angles that the switch and lever end up at. I think I will re think doing this!

Do yourself a favor, and switch to drum brakes.

agreed.

Yes done, works well with the right sized MC, I have BMW drums on my R50, I’m not sure I would want them on my significantly faster R90.

with the right MC ATE brakes work well

Is this what we're talking about? Slash five style switch gear with a Magura clamp on MC. This is feeding a twin disc setup on my /2 conversion sidecar rig. I'd absolutely do it again and probably will put the same setup on my R90 if (when) my under tank MC ever starts leaking again.

I'm a fan. It's an inexpensive upgrade that provides a huge increase in braking performance. I fitted the Magura 13mm MC from Amazon back in 2012 to my single ATE R90/6.



I hacked off the brake lever and mirror mount part ...



... and bogged up the wound ...



I also turned up some bar extensions tapped M8 for bar end mirrors. This provides sufficient length for the MC clamp before the bend on the Euro handlebar. I like the extra leverage on the bars and the outboard mirrors are perfect for touring.



I needed to do the mod again a couple of years ago when I replaced the whole throttle (a Highly Recommended performance mod, especially if you add new cables and lightweight springs to the shopping cart). This time I left the mirror mount hole - to be used as a handguard mount along the way.

Re the OP's concern about the switch angle, I found that the switch is rotated back 10 to 15 degrees. It may look odd but I had no problem adapting to the changed position. The brake feels good and works so well - an astonishing difference - and the original cost was about $150 including a custom SS hose and fittings.

Well done Brun, excellent write up on the process.

As another data point I should mention that my current setup is running the 16mm Magura feeding a pair of Yamaha XS650 calipers and has an easy two finger pull on the lever with with awesome control. I'd bought both the 13mm and 16mm MC's but the 13mm couldn't move enough fluid for the dual Yamaha calipers.

I bought two of those Magura 225s for a project: one 13mm and one 16mm. Those are the only two sizes that exist. The 13mm was just a bit too mushy for the '81-84 brakes so I have the 16 on there now. I wish there were a 14 or 15.

Wow, I forgot about this. Now that my under tank MC is leaking, and looking at the cost of the rebuild kit, I am reconsidering this. Brun, your pics are not showing.

Yeah, all my pics disappeared last year when the PictureTrail hosting service shut down.

I've found the pics and replaced the missing ones in my post above.

So I did it. Brake line and banjo bolt by Nickwackett Garage.

Pretty bike.

Be interested to see what you think to the improved braking. I have ben considering this too.

Unfortunately I have never really ridden the bike enough to be able to really gauge the difference. I mostly did it because my under tank master cylinder was leaking and I didn't know it. I wanted to eliminate the out of sight out of mind for the future.

I just did a 78 R100RS along with braided stainless lines and EBC semi-floating rotors. Very happy with it. With ATE u dertank I could bleed them so lever was rock hard, but there wasn’t much “feel”. New setup feels much more like a modern bike.

Would definitely do it again.

I resisted handlebar-mounted master cylinders for years. Then I rode a bike that had been converted.

I completely rebuilt my /6 under-tank braking system including a new drilled disk up front. It bleeds well and the lever is hard, but it feels wooden and I can't get the front to wheel to lock no matter how hard I pull on the lever. Its probably working as well as it did when new, if not better but it can be scary in modern traffic ;-)