1985 DR250S rebuild, and garage fun in Tassie.

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by sruss67, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    408
    Location:
    Devonport, Tasmania, Australia
    Hoping I am putting this in the right thread as it is now in a gazillion pieces and ready to refurb and put back together with "some assembly required" :scratch

    My background is that I love having a project, and after 25 years in the bicycle industry and always having a bicycle to either build or "change somewhat", and having ridden motorcycles sporadically from an early age, I was looking for another project, with an engine.
    I didn't want to spend a lot, wanted something older for classic rego, and something simple to work on.
    Up pops a 1985 DR250S that looks original, comes with a spare rolling chassis, is not running and the seller has no idea why, all for $700AUD non negotiable.
    We chat and I agree to buy the bike/s, drive the 3 hours down to Hobart, load everything up and drive back to Devonport and unload, quite chuffed with my purchase :wings
    IMG_20200606_121745.jpg
    The following weekend I start checking for spark etc and find the ignition coil is dead, find a new OEM for a good price and wait for it to arrive.
    Fit the new coil and still no spark :beccatest all other electrical and all tests well, except the cdi unit, look at the second bike to see a cdi unit attached, might as well give it a go, hey presto we have spark :-)
    Next is making sure fuel is getting through to the carby, check tank, which is sparkling clean and turn fuel on, kick, kick, kick, fuel pissing out of carby, shut her down.
    Luckily I bought a rebuild kit for the carby. Rebuild and set needle as per manual, kick, kick, kick, she is alive and running a little rough, great starting point though.
    More to follow :-)
    #1
  2. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Once I knew the bike would run I proceeded to strip it back to a bare frame to see what I had, and what needed to be done. It looked like the bike had been somewhat refurbed by another owner as their was paint peeling off the front fender and a few other places, overspray on the frame and tool bag were evidence someone liked shortcuts.
    There were a few small issues and parts missing so I started chasing parts and solving the issues.
    One of the oil pan drain cap bolts sheered off when removing it, as did a rear fender bolt, the exhaust was held together with silicone at the point where the header and mufflers join, and had a large piece of broken baffle inside the muffler which fell out when I removed it. Battery was missing, along with the strap that secures it. Lots of little stuff.
    98279786_592606571385710_6471555643852455936_n.jpg IMG_20200607_164803.jpg IMG_20200607_164958.jpg IMG_20200607_165018.jpg IMG_20200607_165058.jpg IMG_20200627_153312.jpg

    Whilst stripping her down I decided it would be good practise to bag, tag and box up as many parts as I could, which all fit nicely under the work stand. Photos of the transition to a bare frame.
    IMG_20200627_164541.jpg IMG_20200628_155809.jpg IMG_20200628_155823.jpg IMG_20200704_170857.jpg

    Whilst I have it apart I am going to open up the engine and check for wear/damage, although compression tested good and the engine was pretty quiet. I have ordered a replacement exhaust system from a NZ company called Musket Mufflers who make reproduction exhausts for a lot of older bikes, stumbled across them when searching for exhausts for the DR/SP. Will replace all gaskets with new as there is a good oil leak from the case.
    Got a quote from a local guy to soda blast the frame and a pile of parts, wanted $1500 which seemed ridiculous, don't want to buy his equipment, just have some parts blasted :hmmmmm
    Will look at doing this myself with a Karcher add on blaster kit and find some media to use.
    #2
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  3. Bowler

    Bowler Been here awhile

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    Wow, $1500 is pretty steep! There are also add-ons for air compressors, which seem to work well. I've not used them, but a few of the inmates here use them.
    #3
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  4. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Devonport, Tasmania, Australia
    I thought the same so have gone the way you mentioned and have the Karcher blast adaptor coming now. Need to find blast media locally now which will be the next issue :-)

    This weekend I will look at starting to rebuild my wheels with new spokes, front have arrived, waiting on rears. Rear wheel is stripped other than the tyre I need to remove today, hoping to pick up some tyre levers this morning and getting started.
    IMG_20200705_130302.jpg IMG_20200705_130257.jpg Thankfully both wheels fit in my Park truing stand used for building bicycle wheels :clap
    #4
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  5. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    So with needing to do some work around home there wasn't a huge amount of time to play with the bike. Decided to remove the front wheel spokes and clean up the front hub, remove the tyres from the rims and re-lace the front wheel. Signs of a little oxidation which is pretty good for a 35 yr old wheel, the anodising is reasonable and cleaned up well.
    IMG_20200712_112510.jpg IMG_20200712_115552.jpg IMG_20200712_115600.jpg IMG_20200712_115706.jpg
    Thankfully all old spokes and nipples loosened off without any major issues, unlike the rear wheel where I snapped 2x spokes when de-lacing it.
    Used a dry lube on the spoke threads, placed all spokes in the hub and proceeded to lace up the wheel with new nipples, making sure the outer spokes stayed outside the inner spokes, and the spokes either side of the valve hole pulled away from it.
    IMG_20200712_121152.jpg IMG_20200712_130719.jpg IMG_20200712_143641.jpg
    Pretty happy with how the wheel looks.
    Rear spokes should arrive this week so I can get the rear wheel built.
    Need to strip and repaint the frame and a few other parts before I even consider putting everything back together.
    #5
  6. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    IMG_20200705_094533.jpg IMG_20200705_094539.jpg IMG_20200705_152453.jpg IMG_20200705_152459.jpg IMG_20200609_155024.jpg
    The last image above shows the remnants of where a PO has attempted to repaint the engine, albeit poorly.
    I will try paint stripper on the engine, and may also try my hand at blasting the paint off with either soda or another blasting media. Need to see what is reasonably priced to set up at home. I have a compressor, so may look at a basic setup and give it a whirl. Would be nice to strip all parts I want to repaint without using paint stripper.
    #6
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  7. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Not alot of time to work on the bike of late, and have managed to strip paint from the frame, swingarm, some parts and most of the engine.
    IMG_20200719_120918.jpg IMG_20200719_120925.jpg IMG_20200719_154732.jpg IMG_20200719_154738.jpg IMG_20200719_154744.jpg
    Started to remove rust with wire wheels and sanding discs. Will look to have the frame sand blasted before painting it myself.
    My rear spoke set arrived and the spokes were way too big for the bike, called the dealer and they apologised and have ordered what must be the only remaining set in Australia from Suzuki, and will send them to me at no additional charge. Need to get all these parts cleaned, painted and start reassembling, after I open the engine for a look at wear etc.
    #7
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  8. Pezz_gs

    Pezz_gs Cant ride for crap

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    Nov 13, 2004
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    Location:
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    Be interested to see what the Karcher adaptor is like??

    Where in Oz are you??
    #8
  9. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    I am in Devonport, Tasmania, Pezz, and Bunnings couldn't supply the adaptor for the Karcher. Which worked out well as when I thought about it blasting with wet media is a waste as you cannot reuse the media.

    Looking at other options at the moment.
    #9
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  10. tHEtREV

    tHEtREV Encouragement award recipient. tEAM iDIOT.

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    If it was anything like the connection I tried out about 20 years ago it was a waste of time.

    Used way to much media and took a lot longer than a normal sand blaster.
    #10
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  11. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks for your thoughts tHEtREV, you confirmed my thoughts. :)
    #11
  12. Pezz_gs

    Pezz_gs Cant ride for crap

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    Chatting with a guy in the BMWTCNSW yesterday
    He got the Karcher one but needs LOTS of psi to make it work
    He gave up and built s vapour blasting cabinet instead
    Happy to do stuff for me too :thumb
    #12
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  13. tHEtREV

    tHEtREV Encouragement award recipient. tEAM iDIOT.

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    I was working for a backyard panel beater/spray painter at the time and he was all excited to try it. In theory he thought it should work better than air powered.

    We wasted half a day on it trying to make it work . We made the nozzle more focused ,that just forced water down the pick up pipe into the media making it useless, so someone had to hold the bucket of media up high so it wouldn't wet it (I think it did it a couple of times before we screwed with the nozzle) and when we got it all running OK we blasted about 10cm2 and used half a 20l bucket of sand.

    I must say clean up was a lot easier though. :lol3
    #13
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  14. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Yeah, you have both echoed my thoughts on wet blasting. :thumb
    I started removing rust with grinder and sanding discs, drill with flap sanders and sandpaper.
    Tis a slow process but is working well.
    Got a little more done yesterday and will be having another crack at it today.
    #14
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  15. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Got several smaller parts cleaned up and painted over the weekend.
    IMG_20200726_130803.jpg IMG_20200726_130828.jpg IMG_20200726_130858.jpg IMG_20200726_131021.jpg IMG_20200726_161708.jpg IMG_20200726_161714.jpg IMG_20200726_161728.jpg

    Time to start cleaning up the frame so I can repaint it, still waiting on my replacement rear spokes to rebuild the rear wheel.
    Still need to get the engine blasted as I don't fancy cleaning that up myself :eek7
    #15
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  16. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    If you have access to muriatic acid, it eats rust like a champ! Muriatic is a mild hydrochloride acid used to clean cement. I use it to remove rust from inside gas tanks and used it to descale my old DR250 frame last year. Just make sure it's used in a well ventilated area (outside is best!), keep ammonia/baking soda/some other base nearby to neutralize it if needs be, and a bucket of soapy water and/or a hose to dilute spillage I said also helpful...oh, and don't wear clothes you like or get it on you, or breathe the vapors (really isn't as unsafe as my narrative sounds if you're careful). Works F-A-S-T.
    #16
  17. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Thanks for the reply and wisdom re using muriatic acid to disolve rust mentolio.
    Looks like I have found a local company who can blast my frame for me, which is going to be the best option for me for now.
    #17
  18. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Spent today cleaning the frame of as much rust and remnants of paint as I could using an electric drill and several wire brush connections, as well as sanding discs.

    Got it pretty clean then applied rust converter and primed the frame.
    IMG_20200801_144055.jpg IMG_20200801_144108.jpg IMG_20200801_160429.jpg IMG_20200801_160437.jpg IMG_20200801_160843.jpg IMG_20200801_162734.jpg IMG_20200801_162741.jpg IMG_20200801_162749.jpg IMG_20200801_162758.jpg IMG_20200801_162809.jpg

    Pretty happy with how it came up, and besides some bloody hard work it wasn't as bad to do as I first thought. Will paint it black tomorrow and clean up more parts ready for painting.
    #18
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  19. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Had another productive day today getting the frame painted in the final colour.

    Also cleaned up the rear suspension linkage parts and several other parts, and got those painted too.
    IMG_20200802_155049.jpg IMG_20200802_155105.jpg IMG_20200802_155112.jpg IMG_20200802_155133.jpg IMG_20200802_155142.jpg IMG_20200802_155203.jpg IMG_20200802_155219.jpg IMG_20200802_155230.jpg
    #19
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  20. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    Then promptly move everything into the garage as it looked like rain was coming our way. IMG_20200802_160436.jpg

    Chase up the rear wheel spokes tomorrow and start reassembling next weekend.
    Still to decide what I will do with the engine now that it is stripped of paint.
    Don't fancy pulling it apart completely to have it wet blasted, may just clean it up and respray as best I can.
    #20