1985 DR250S rebuild, and garage fun in Tassie.

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by sruss67, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Unfortunately no, for some reason I wasn't able to load the images from my phone when updating the story, so still to open her up yet.
    Hoping to have a bit of time after work today to take a look :-)
  2. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Had enough time this afternoon to remove the tank, seat, side covers and the head cover. Tomorrow will hopefully see the camshaft repositioned and valve clearances double checked.

    Need to clean the sealant off the head and reapply prior to reassembly.

    IMG_20210907_172332.jpg

    IMG_20210907_172328.jpg
  3. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    For reassembly I suggest backing the valve lash adjusters all the way up before placing the valve cover back on. This way you avoid confusion and having to fight valve spring tension when torquing-down the cover bolts.
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  4. cedric

    cedric Been here awhile

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    Should that valve cover have a gasket? Might be important for proper clearance against the cam
  5. Franque

    Franque Nilé na sohakélwa manga

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    It's not really a valve cover per se, it's an integral part of the valvetrain, and you're correct, the clearance is important and they're matched to the heads, which is why you don't mix and match them and the heads. They're designed to run without a gasket, just a thin smear of Yamabond or similar.
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  6. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    @mentolio Thanks for the advice, hadn't thought of that, and it makes sense now as to why the cover was lifting once all bolts were loose. :-)
    I will be sure to loosen the valve adjusters prior to reinstalling the cover.

    @cedric Franque is correct, Suzuki does NOT use a gasket at this junction point, only a light amount of a sealant.

    @Franque You are spot on with your information as always :photog
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  7. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Got the timing reset 180deg this afternoon and plan on getting the cover back on and valves adjusted tomorrow.
    Hoping to have the old girl (the Dr, not my Missus) running this weekend. :jack
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  8. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Finally got the bike back together after adjusting the camshaft to match the correct exhaust tdc, and setting the valve adjustments to spec.
    Got the bike started fairly easily and noticed there is now a reasonably loud "metallic" sound/noise matching the revs.

    I have uploaded a video to see if anyone can help with what this may be.
    Certain I followed all assembly and setup instructions as per the manual, open to advice here as this is my first engine rebuild.

    The noise is definitely different to anything I have heard prior to rebuilding this engine.
    I have replaced absolutely everything from the piston up.

  9. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Here is another video of the engine after the initial restart after the rebuild to the engine.

  10. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    Check you’re getting oil up there (pull a valve adjustment cover/cap and make sure it’s wet underneath)? Is the cam chain tensioner an automatic or manual adjustable version? Could be cam chain “slap” from the chain being too loose?
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  11. tinwelp

    tinwelp Professional Idiot

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    Hmmm, no that doesn't sound right... and yes, absolutely check for oiling at the top.

    I think I'd be looking at the valve clearances again, and checking to see if the numbers in the manual are sensible. After that, cam-chain tension. After that, I'd be pulling the head again to investigate. It doesn't sound like a piston to head clearance issue, but did you check the clearance during the rebuild?

    Cheers... Paul
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  12. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Cheers for the advice guys, appreciate the help.
    Will check the valve clearances and oil again.
    The cam chain is auto adjusted and I will check that again also.
    Looks like I might be pulling the engine out of the frame again.
  13. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    Say, did you do a new cam chain or are you using the old one? My ‘90 250 had a wiped-out chain (among other things that were shot-out). Tensioner piston was pretty far out, and they sometimes have a problem advancing to the next tooth due (probably) to spring fatigue.

    stuff I mentioned should be easy enough to check without removing the engine.
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  14. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    @mentolio I used the old cam chain. Thought the auto adjuster had tensioned it up enough, but sure doesn't sound like it now.
    Thinking now the chain may be shot and will check either this weekend or next week.
    Time to open her up again.

    @tinwelp Hi Paul, the piston seemed spot-on for height when reassembling, as noted above, time to dig in again and learn some more :-)
  15. Franque

    Franque Nilé na sohakélwa manga

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    A little trick that you can try, to verify camchain/tensioner issues (if the tensioner is one that you can stick a screwdriver in to decrease the tension) is to get it running, put the screwdriver in, but turn it to increase the tension, and see if that makes things quieter. Also, if replacing the camchain, make sure to turn it over by hand after replacing it, just to verify valves aren't hitting the piston.
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  16. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks @Franque
    I have ordered a cam chain. And will check as you suggested as the adjuster does have the screw adjuster slot.
  17. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Tried the cam chain as suggested by @Franque and noticed it still slapped around.
    Decided to remove the clutch cover, clutch and inspect from inside, found a very loose cam chain, and a spot where the cam chain has been rubbing the inside case.
    Have ordered a new cam chain tensioner and cam guides.
    Tried loosening the left hand thread nut to access the cam chain with no luck.
    Looks like I will need to remove the next phase of the engine to remove the remaining cam chain guide.

    Also removed the valve cover and there is plenty of oil circulating through the top end.

    New gasket kit coming as well.
    Will get this old girl right at some point.

    IMG_20210918_151242.jpg IMG_20210918_151251.jpg IMG_20210918_151302.jpg
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  18. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    The replacement cam chain, guides and tensioner arrived this week.
    Today was the day to pull apart and replace the remaining parts that arrived and check as I went.
    IMG_20211009_104651.jpg

    Fitted the new cam chain and thought the new one wasn't correct. Seemed too tight to fit and didn't seem to sit on the cam shaft sprocket correctly.
    Removed the new one and fitted the old one, new guides and tensioner showed the old one was well worn, time to double check the new one.

    Refitted and pulled onto the sprocket teeth it looked spot on, and tensioned up beautifully.

    Tightened everything up and reinstalled the old clutch which worked well, and now doesn't :dirtdog

    Got the bike running and she is running sweet, just no clutch now.
    Will remove the clutch cover and check what is going on, and refit the new clutch.
    Hoping it is the basket catching or something simple.

    Just want to ride this bloody bike already haha.
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  19. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Drained the oil, removed the clutch cover, removed the clutch plates and checked what was going on.
    Some goose (read me:stupid) had fitted the clutch with the widest plate to the outside, when it is supposed to be to the inside.
    Swapped the plates around and edjusted the clutch as per the manual.
    Checked operation and all looked right.

    Raced up and bought gasket sheets from Supercheap so I could cut a new gasket (first time doing this) which worked out a treat, fitted the clutch cover and kick starter.

    Then it was crunch time, fire it up and check all is right...................... Yeehah, all is as it should be. :happay
    Had to clean everything up and go for a little ride to check the difference and all was good.
    I can report all is working as it should and the difference from previously is massive, smoother, better starting both hot and cold, more power, constant idle, quieter and sounds like it should now :lol3

    Also sorted the exhaust with a better join between the headers and muffler by fitting some exhaust cloth as a wrap.

    Very happy to have learnt so much whilst rebuilding this bike.
    Thanks to anyone and everyone that gave advice, shared ideas, knowledge and tips and helped in the process, you all helped more than you know :clap
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  20. sruss67

    sruss67 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Started looking at options to replace the seat foam now as it is super soft, and I am a lightweight ha.
    Any ideas on using layers of yoga mats or other foam types to layer the seat?