1986 CR500R--Woods Bike Material?

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by brucifer, Apr 29, 2016.

  1. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    LOL, thanks for the tips! :p3rry

    I remember the lean it over till gas flows out of the carb from the '70s. My uncle and his buddies used to do that. :D
    #21
  2. Dao1

    Dao1 Long timer

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    hahaha....mine spit me off real good one time when it got on the pipe in 3rd gear....and, even landing on dirt w/ atgatt, I walked funny for at least 2 months recovering. My subframe twisted like a pretzel.
    #22
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  3. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

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    Fortunately I had an understanding girlfriend. At the end of every day she peeled the shirt off and applied lotion 'til it healed. Road rash the size of Arkansas on your back in a humid Maryland summer sucks.
    #23
  4. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    She runs! :clap
    Finished straightening up the garage a bit and was ready to close it up and looked at the CR and thought "I wonder if that thing will light off."
    Turned the fuel on, leaned it over until fuel spilled out of the carb, stood it up and snicked it into 4th gear, rocked it back and forth a bunch of times, clicked into neutral, a couple half hearted kicks then two like I meant business and braaaap....ding...ding....ding. The thing runs awesome!
    Rode it around the yard for a minute or two and that's all it took for the front caliper to start seizing up so I put her away.
    I like this bike. Lots of torque even off the pipe. Nice. :ricky
    #24
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  5. Bhart89

    Bhart89 Long timer Supporter

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    Congrats! I'm jealous.
    #25
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  6. anotherguy

    anotherguy Long timer

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    My experience says rebuild both the M/C and caliper. And use a quality DOT 4 when done.
    #26
  7. AlpinaE24

    AlpinaE24 Long timer

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    Better yet, swap a more modern USD complete front end
    #27
  8. GR0NK

    GR0NK Got some screws loose!

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    They actually make a better trail bike than most would think. I have an FMF Gnarly on my 86. I never could find some flywheel weights for it though. Air down for traction and pack fuel. :D

    [​IMG]

    Congrats on getting one. :beer



    Sean :brow
    #28
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  9. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Well, a couple weeks ago I pulled the caliper apart and cleaned it. The seals and bores looked good so I reinstalled everything and it seems to work well now. One of the pistons had a scratch I was concerned about but it appears to be just fine.

    So today I decide to change the transmission oil, coolant and plug and give the bike a general going over. I knew it was down on coolant and was hoping I didn't have the dreaded rotted out water pump/clutch cover deal but as soon as I loosened the oil drain plug, out comes some green and then milkshake. Crap.
    I removed the water pump cover and.........crap.
    [​IMG]
    Pretty sure I know what I'm going to find once I remove the impeller and clean all the corrosion out.
    So right now I'm letting the transmission drain. I'll get back to it after awhile.
    #29
  10. snarlyjohn

    snarlyjohn Human money repellant

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    One of these is all it takes to make starting a big-bore two stroke a piece of cake:
    [​IMG]
    #30
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  11. GR0NK

    GR0NK Got some screws loose!

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    Bummer. Hope it's not as bad as that looks. :eek7



    Sean :brow
    #31
  12. GR0NK

    GR0NK Got some screws loose!

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    Can you post a link for it? I'm not getting any younger... :lol3



    Sean :bmwrider
    #32
  13. snarlyjohn

    snarlyjohn Human money repellant

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    Sure - http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/843225-cr500-decompression-valve-pics/
    The valve itself is a decompression valve for a chainsaw, any Stihl or Husqvarna dealer can supply them. They have an M10 fine thread, and the Husky versions are available in a long and short thread version. Just be sure to buy genuine; I bought a cheap aftermarket one from ebay once and it barely worked. These things make starting a big-bore as easy as a 125, really.
    #33
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  14. spokester

    spokester Long timer

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    I also wonder if you could somewhat tame the beast by lowering the compression Ratio via a thicker head gasket or shim?
    #34
  15. snarlyjohn

    snarlyjohn Human money repellant

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    You could, but it'd reduce the peak power a bit.

    One of the easiest ways to soften the hit without reducing the peak is to use a CDI with a programmable advance curve. With a little tweaking you could reduce the initial steepness of the torque curve as well as extending the over-rev.

    These bikes really don't make an enormous amount of horsepower; it's just the sudden increase in torque when it comes on the pipe that makes them a bit of a handful at times.
    #35
  16. Mobil1

    Mobil1 Long timer

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    Is that aluminum or magnesium ?
    #36
  17. Mobil1

    Mobil1 Long timer

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    They use these on Harleys also.
    #37
  18. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Magnesium.
    #38
  19. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    As was suspected, the case is bad. The corrosion was actually pushing the outer seal out towards the impeller.
    [​IMG]
    On the inside, someones previous "fix" using silicone. I guess it worked because it didn't fail; the case did.
    [​IMG]

    Time for the later model two-piece clutch cover mod.
    #39
  20. AlpinaE24

    AlpinaE24 Long timer

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    What a mess, par for the course though. If it wasn't 116 today I would fire up the KX... considering pulling the head and sending it out to Larry wiechman. For $150 and he mods the head and skims it.

    image.jpg


    Something about kicking a 500 in gym shoes just feels wrong
    #40